Digital BW, The Print

Hello Paul,

Thanks again for the details.  That helps.

In my position I am looking for a "turnkey" solution as much as possible.

I have been reading (almost) all of the threads over the last few months and
whenever I see something related to sepia (especially your posts) I read
with great interest as I want to have a simple sepia solution on the
desktop.

At this point, I am not interested in mixing different inks (hey...that can
be fun...or a headache).  I also would want a simple software solution too
(either using the Piezo I already own, Epson, or something affordable).  No
would I want to have to spend much time with sw issues.  My understanding
was that the Imageprint sw was pretty pricey.

As for the "look" I am looking for...would like the range from a light sepia
to a darker "platinum" look.  Your Southwestern example is probably right in
line with what I have in mind.  By the "old photo" I imagine you mean a much
lighter tone with a more "yellow" rather than "brown" look.

Also, I will need to purchase a printer to use with this stuff.  I was
waiting to see if  Epson came out with a good item this year. As it appears
the 1280 (at about $500) is the "standard" now...I suppose I would go that
route.

If I dedicate a printer to "sepia" production/inks...I don't really need to
produce a "neutral" (cooler toned) print from this dedicated printer...so I
wonder if the MIS-VM-S is indeed what I need??  Again, I don't forsee
wanting to produce both grey and sepia from the same printer.  I would just
continue to use my 1160 with PiezoTones or PiezoBW for the grey images.

So...given those facts, would you recommend:

1.  1280
2.  Tyler's Curves
3.  MIS VM-Sepia  (or wait for the final sepia ink you are perfecting?)

Regards again,
Steadman

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Paul Roark [mailto:paul.roark@...]
  Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 1:54 PM
  To: DigitalB&WPrint
  Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Sepia (was Foam Core: The Good Stuff is Acid
Free)


  Steadman,

  You wrote, in part:


  >...and keep working on that sepia stuff please.

  The inkset is pretty much done.  I will evaluate my 2 toner formulas (one
of
  which is non-warming) after a 600 hour fade (warming) test this evening.

  I want to be sure that prints made with the neutral end of the inkset's
  range do not warm.  The base gray is the non-warming FS-N, but the toner
was
  not non-warming.  The question is whether there is enough of the sepia
toner
  in the neutral shadows to matter.  At 300 hours the answer was that it was
  irrelevant -- no significant warming (including shadow warming) with
either
  formula.

  I do not care if the sepia end of the print range warms a little.
Compared
  to the warmth that is there already, it's a minor change.

  I think ImagePrint 4 will support this inkset in most current printers.

  In addition, there are current MIS VM curves that work quite well with
most
  printers.  (Some of Tyler's curves work better than mine.)

  I have 3000 curves for the vm-s.  I also just bought a PressReady and will
  see if I can control it for the 3000, which Colorbyte has not indicated it
  will support.  So, hopefully, there will also be a RIP cheaply available
(I
  paid $77 on EBay today for PressReady) for the 3000.  (I will, of course,
  make public any files that are needed to control the PressReady -- if I
  figure out how it works.)

  I published a Piezo/FS formula for sepia inkset that appears to work well
  also.

  I find I'm using the vm-s inkset in the 3000 and it does all that I
want --
  excellent neutral (true neutral and non-warming) and light sepia (for the
  "southwestern" types of prints).

  I find the full-on sepia appropriate only for the old-photo reproductions,
  but note that the highest-end gallery I saw on a tour of Taos and Santa Fe
  galleries featured really dark sepia-like platinum prints for mucho $.

  Paul
  http://www.PaulRoark.com




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