Digital BW, The Print

Paul,

Thanks a bunch for the clear answers.

Appreciatively,

Steadman
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Paul Roark [mailto:paul.roark@...]
  Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 4:21 PM
  To: DigitalB&WPrint
  Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Sepia (was Foam Core: The Good Stuff is Acid
Free)


  Steadman,

  You wrote:

  >... I am looking for a "turnkey" solution as much as possible.

  I've published the FS/Piezo formula.  If MIS won't produce it, maybe Cone
  will.  When I publish a formula on the list, it is for the taking -- free.

  >... I want to have a simple sepia solution on the desktop.

  I use the vm-s inkset in a 3000 with a PC.  I'm very satisfied with the
  results -- easy and flexible.

  >As for the "look" I am looking for...would like the range
  >from a light sepia to a darker "platinum" look.

  I think the VM-S inkset would do.

  >... By the "old photo" I imagine you mean a much
  >lighter tone with a more "yellow" rather than "brown" look.

  Actually not.  I concluded that the light yellow was the faded albumen
tone,
  not the original brownish tone.  I used the French tome on the "History of
  Photography" (by the photo curator of the Louvre), real samples, and some
  other secondary sources.

  >Also, I will need to purchase a printer to use with this stuff.
  >...it appears the 1280 (at about $500) is the "standard" now...

  A few recent postings on the forum suggest that people are finding
existing
  curves that work well with the 1280 & vm-s.  I do not have a 1280, so I
  can't say.  I have not made a special set of curve for that printer and
the
  vm-s inkset.

  >...I don't really need to produce a "neutral" ...so I
  >wonder if the MIS-VM-S is indeed what I need??

  It would give you the option of lighter or darker sepia than a monotone
  inkset.

  >So...given those facts, would you recommend:

  >1.  1280

  It is the standard now for 13" paper.

  >2.  Tyler's Curves

  Check the postings.  I think people are using a mix of Tyler's and my
  curves.

  >3.  MIS VM-Sepia  (or wait for the final sepia
  >ink you are perfecting?)

  No need to wait.  The prints look virtually identical.  If the non-warming
  toner is of any benefit, it would only be for the neutral end anyway.

  Paul
  http://www.PaulRoark.com



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