Digital BW, The Print

Jerry,

I don't necessarily agree with a lot of your comments to Austin but your
copying and pasting for detail just saved a picture for me. For that I must
thank you. Never thought about doing it before. I still don't think that
every photo has to be manipulated in PS to *make it better*. I hate to crop
primarily because I compose and shoot at the same time. Maybe it comes from
a jazz improvisational background. Once you throw the notes out you can't
take them back. For me anything and everything in the art field is
intuitive. The form follows substance and how you get there is very
personal. Goodbye. Don't want to ramble.

Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Olson" <jerryolson@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Methods of Selection Narrow ranges...?


> Cleavis,
>
> Have you tried selecting all the very light areas in your image,
> feathering about 20-40 pixels or so, (depending on the resolution of
> your file), and copying and pasting it to a new layer?  Then select
> multiply for that layer. It will give you much more highlight detail.
> Then, depending on how it looks, you can reduce the amount of detail by
> lowering the opacity of that layer until it looks just right.
>
> You can do the same thing for shadows. Only use the screen mode instead
> of the multiply mode.
>
> These two things alone can greatly expand the highlight/shadow detail in
> your images.
>
> In your case, select the areas you want to add contrast in, make the new
> copy layer of them, and use the screen mode. This may give you too much
> shadow detail. You'll have to reduce the opacity. You can also use a
> curve to increase the contrast in this layer.
>
> Jerry
>
> lyonscox wrote:
> >
> > I was wondering what methods people are employing when trying to
> > adjust the contrast of a narrow tone range, say 5-20%?
> >
> > To state it another way...if I were to make a traditional silver
> > print and wanted to do this, I would be doing a dodge/burn in very
> > specific areas (if using a variable contrast paper, yuck ;-) I would
> > use a different filter from the main exposure) and afterwards do
> > localized reducing (most of you call it bleaching).
> >
> > I've found myself
> > A - adjusting curves, generally and repeatedly in small increments.
> > B - selecting areas, layer color fill (~25-75%B) set to burn, etc.
> > C - using the intuitive dodge & burn tool
> >
> > OThers?  Efficient?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Cleavis
> >
> >
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