Jerry,
No argument about that. As long as one knows the tool is just a means of
getting the message across. A new saxophone doesn't make a musician a better
creator. I never wanted to use autofocus until I realized my eyes were
getting older or a coupled meter in my older cameras until I couldn't read
the info on my old Weston. Giving away my age now.
Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Olson" <jerryolson@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Methods of Selection Narrow ranges...?
> Hi Barry,
>
> Not every picture has to be cropped. Not EVERY picture has to be tweaked
> in photoshop. (Many photographers probably haven't even heard of
> photoshop). But IF you can make an improvement, I'll do it. I'm MAKING a
> picture versus TAKING a picture. It's all art, and I use photoshop as a
> tool to better photographs.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
> bgs wrote:
> >
> > Jerry,
> >
> > I don't necessarily agree with a lot of your comments to Austin but your
> > copying and pasting for detail just saved a picture for me. For that I
must
> > thank you. Never thought about doing it before. I still don't think that
> > every photo has to be manipulated in PS to *make it better*. I hate to
crop
> > primarily because I compose and shoot at the same time. Maybe it comes
from
> > a jazz improvisational background. Once you throw the notes out you
can't
> > take them back. For me anything and everything in the art field is
> > intuitive. The form follows substance and how you get there is very
> > personal. Goodbye. Don't want to ramble.
> >
> > Barry
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Olson" <jerryolson@...>
> > To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 12:52 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Methods of Selection Narrow ranges...?
> >
> > > Cleavis,
> > >
> > > Have you tried selecting all the very light areas in your image,
> > > feathering about 20-40 pixels or so, (depending on the resolution of
> > > your file), and copying and pasting it to a new layer? Then select
> > > multiply for that layer. It will give you much more highlight detail.
> > > Then, depending on how it looks, you can reduce the amount of detail
by
> > > lowering the opacity of that layer until it looks just right.
> > >
> > > You can do the same thing for shadows. Only use the screen mode
instead
> > > of the multiply mode.
> > >
> > > These two things alone can greatly expand the highlight/shadow detail
in
> > > your images.
> > >
> > > In your case, select the areas you want to add contrast in, make the
new
> > > copy layer of them, and use the screen mode. This may give you too
much
> > > shadow detail. You'll have to reduce the opacity. You can also use a
> > > curve to increase the contrast in this layer.
> > >
> > > Jerry
> > >
> > > lyonscox wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I was wondering what methods people are employing when trying to
> > > > adjust the contrast of a narrow tone range, say 5-20%?
> > > >
> > > > To state it another way...if I were to make a traditional silver
> > > > print and wanted to do this, I would be doing a dodge/burn in very
> > > > specific areas (if using a variable contrast paper, yuck ;-) I would
> > > > use a different filter from the main exposure) and afterwards do
> > > > localized reducing (most of you call it bleaching).
> > > >
> > > > I've found myself
> > > > A - adjusting curves, generally and repeatedly in small increments.
> > > > B - selecting areas, layer color fill (~25-75%B) set to burn, etc.
> > > > C - using the intuitive dodge & burn tool
> > > >
> > > > OThers? Efficient?
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Cleavis
> > > >
> > > >
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and
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