Yahoo Groups archive

Digital BW, The Print

Index last updated: 2026-04-28 22:56 UTC

Message

Re: [Digital BW] OT: Archive Framing

2002-08-06 by Ken Carney

Tony: Here is what I do, essentially the same procedure as for silver prints.  You might give some thought to the frame size.  I don't print large (usually max at appx 11x16 image size), and frame everything in a 16x20 frame, even the 5x7 prints.  That way, when you have an exhibit, there is some uniformity.  The gallery frames are good (Nielsen), all in black.  With photos, I think less is more so far as the frame.  You might also try the convenient backloading gallery frames from Light Impressions.  The print should be placed slightly high of center on the mat board.  Light Impressions makes a plastic T-square jig that positions the print correctly for optical center.

I dry-mount the prints in a big Seal press, with Seal Colormount tissue.  The overmat is a window mat, 1/2" border on top and sides and 1 1/4" on the bottom.  This allows a matching of the mount board and the overmat, plus room to sign and date on the mat board.  You can certainly use 2-ply for the mount board and 4-ply for the overmat, but remember you may want just matted prints, e.g., for a portfolio to carry, in which case 4-ply for both is best.  I suggest using Lucite or plexiglass instead of glass.  It is a bear to use because of static, but much safer to ship and handle.  I have had good luck with Bainbridge, particularly Alpha-care museum board.  You'll do yourself a favor by picking one mat board and using it for everything.  I use white 100% rag museum board for everything.  I don't have any decisions or stocking problems, and it looks good with photos.  Some like a slightly warmer board.  You'll want to stay away from laminated boards, such as Crescent.  They are never really white and soak up light instead of showing your print to best advantage.

An acid-free foam backing board (Light Impressions again) works fine.  Using the pressure clips that come with the Nielsen frame will seal the print adequately, which is important.  To a bug, museum board is Beluga caviar.  Good luck and hope this helps.  I see a lot of really decent prints in awful frames.

  --Ken Carney
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Tony Terlecki 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 5:58 PM
  Subject: [Digital BW] OT: Archive Framing


  I'm going to start framing prints in archival frames and was wondering what
  techniques and materials other people use. I must admit that after reading
  up a bit on some websites I'm still a bit confused as to all the components
  that make up a properly framed print - the framing terminology seems to vary
  from site to site. Here's what I think I need to do & I'd be grateful if
  anyone could comment upon whether I have a correct system:

  1. Front-most part of the frame is the glass. I intend to buy pre-made
  frames from Nielsen so I don't have to cut my own glass or make my own
  frames.

  2. Next comes the window mat. I have a mat cutter which does a decent job so
  it's just a case of picking my mat board carefully. Looks like I may choose
  from the Bainbridge range. As far as I can tell whether you choose 2-ply or 
  4-ply, etc. is just down to aesthetics and how deep a bevel you like on your 
  mat. Correct?

  3. Next comes the print itself. Not much to say about that.

  4. Next comes the backboard. The print itself will be attached to this and I
  intend to do so using a simple T-hinge with Japanese hinging paper and rice
  starch.  Also the window mat and this backboard will be hinged with some linen 
  cloth tape. 

  Now I've heard that perhaps this backing board should be of exactly the same
  material as the window mat - is this correct? If none of the backboard will
  be seen through the window mat can I get away with using slightly thinner,
  but of equal archive quality, board?

  5. Finally at the very back of the frame is some sort of stiff board. With
  ready made frames there is already a board supplied against which some of the
  hanging clips press. I don't know whether this is of archival quality so I 
  will probably have to replace it with something else. Should this something
  else be foamboard (what is foamboard for that matter)? I'm not sure what people
  call this back-most board (I've also heard it called filler board I think), nor
  do I know what it is made from so any guidance here would be gratefully received
  - I suppose it has to be strong enough to withstand any compression from
  hanging clips pressed against it.

  I have also heard mention of some sort of vapour barrier that fits somewhere
  into the system. Is this something I should be considering and, if so, where
  does this fit into my framing sandwich?!

  Many thanks,

  -- 
  Tony Terlecki
  ajt@...
  Running Debian/GNU 3.0 Linux

        Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
              ADVERTISEMENT
             
       

  Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint

  If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page.

  Please follow these basic guidelines:
  - Include your full name with your message.
  - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
  - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
  - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
  - Complete your Yahoo profile.
  - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. 




  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Attachments

Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.