Digital BW, The Print

Frank,

When I sent my first email this morning, I forgot to put in that besides 
converting to 8-bit, I convert to RGB before loading one of Paul's curves.  
I've added that to the steps below.

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I'll confess to being a "newbie" at this, but last week I came up with a 
solution that I'm very happy with to give more "snap" to my photos.  I think 
I learn something every day from my experiments and reading the email from 
the members of our forum.

Anyway, here's what I'm doing now using B&W negatives scanned in 14-bit mode, 

my Espson 1280, the MIS-VM inks, PS7 and Paul's curves:

1)  Make all major adjustments to image in 16-bit mode. I set black and white 

points first, and then continue to tweak curve several times until I'm happy 
with image on the monitor. 

2)  Convert to 8-bit mode and convert from Grayscale to RGB..

3)  Make two background copy layers (1st one is probably not necessary, but I 

do it just in case I want to do some, DARE I ADMIT IT, dodging or burning in 
after I do my first test print.

4)  Above the first background copy layer, add a curve adjustment layer and 
load one of Paul's curve (I've been using his MW curve).  Then set the Fill 
to around 70% to begin with.  (I've been use the Fill % rather than Opacity 
%.)  Keep layer type as Normal.

5)  In the second background copy layer (your top layer) change layer type to 

Overlay and then adjust the Opacity to around 80% to begin with.

This has made an incredible difference to the quality of my prints.  I no 
longer have any posterization, and my prints don't look flat or muddy.  I 
have found that in the strong highlight areas, I might have do a bit of "burn 

in" because of the impact of the overlay layer, but it's very manageable.  
Playing with the Fill % makes a difference, too.

Let me know if you try this out and find some improvement.

Bob