Digital BW, The Print

Another option for the 10-20 year print life and are using the 
1280 is Ilford Classic Gallerie glossy paper, which is about 
as glossy as my old wet-chemistry prints when dried with the 
print surface pointed away from the drum. To most people who've 
seen my stuff, they are not distinguishable from wet-chemistry 
prints.

- David

= = = Original message = = =

In no certain order...

1. Your print gradation will improve if you move to a 6-color 
or 7-color 
printer.

2. I have a Polaroid SprintScan 120 and use it regularly to scan 
b/w medium 
format film. I've been very happy with it. As for dpi, do the 
math and see 
what you need on the input side to get your desired output at 
about 300 
dpi. For example, an 8 x 10 at 300 dpi is 2400 x 3000 pixels. 
A 2800 dpi 
scanner will give about 2660 x 3920 for 35mm -- just enough.

3. A glossy b/w print is more problematic. I print on matte paper 
with an 
Epson 2000P and an Epson 1280 running third party ink. I like 
the look of 
matte better. For glossy, an Epson 2200 or a 1280 may be possibility. 
You 
didn't say how long you want the prints to last. If, say, 10-20 
years is 
OK, a 1280 using Epson ColorLife paper may be acceptable. It 
is a semigloss 
paper.

4. Another option for glossy is having a Lightjet print made 
if you have a 
local lab that offers such.

Jeff Greer

At 11:10 AM 09/01/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Much of my photo business is shooting Headshots also (see
>www.rickschiller.com  )    I've  switched to printing digitally, 
scanning
>from film ( TMY pulled a stop, TMX, FP4, Pan-F )   First big 
problem is
>giving people glossy prints, no way my clients will accept matte 
finished
>prints so that limits your ink choice.  On an Epson 860 (4-color) 
 I went
>with the Lyson Quad blacks and was very disappointed with the 
strong
>mid-tone magenta cast.  I switched to Lyson Small Gamut and 
am getting
>better tones.  I use the Lyson paper.   But the big problems 
are as follows:
>
>1. Gradation is not as smooth, especially in the highlights. 
 I have a low
>end scanner ( Canon 2720 ) and really need to upgrade.  I posted 
here 2 days
>ago and don't know whether to go with a Nikon ls4000/ls40 or
>Microtek/Polaroid.   And if I need to spend more money on the 
higher end
>4000 dpi models.
>2. My digital prints are good and when duped to lithos, ordinarily 
look
>better then many dupes I've seen from darkroom prints, sharper. 
 But
>gradation is still lacking.
>3. I have some test scans from Nikon scanners, they are sharper 
then the
>Canon 2720.  But the sharpness has a downside in that every 
minute mark on
>the negs, which would not be picked up in the darkroom, the 
scanner picks up
>and has to be spotted out in Photoshop.
>4. There are other issues, I'm tired of writing right now but 
open to all
>ideas . . . .
>
>Yes, until I get it all resolved I'm considering going back 
to darkroom
>printing or sending all printing work out depending on my level 
of bookings
>in any given week.
>
>Rick
>
>
>
>
>
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Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, 
Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The 
page is at:

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wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences 
by visiting this same page.

Please follow these basic guidelines:
- Include your full name with your message.
- Include the address of your website, if you have one.
- As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages 
to keep them short.
- As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject 
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- Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks 
or "flames."
- Complete your Yahoo profile.
- Before posting a question, search the message archives and 
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