Digital BW, The Print

I'm just using Epson OEM inks and making color prints, so I can't say how
the paper will respond to b&w inksets. But, for the Epson color inks it
responds almost identically to Colorlife, but has a smooth, glossy surface
instead of Colorlife's pearl surface. It also doesn't curl like Colorlife
paper does.

- David

-----Original Message-----
From: bggilliand2001 [mailto:bgilliand@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 5:23 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Glossy prints (was Is anyone really thrilled?
Honest)


What ink set are you using?

Barry Gilliand
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., <david_bookbinder@s...>
wrote:
> Another option for the 10-20 year print life and are using the
> 1280 is Ilford Classic Gallerie glossy paper, which is about
> as glossy as my old wet-chemistry prints when dried with the
> print surface pointed away from the drum. To most people who've
> seen my stuff, they are not distinguishable from wet-chemistry
> prints.
>
> - David
>
> = = = Original message = = =
>
> In no certain order...
>
> 1. Your print gradation will improve if you move to a 6-color
> or 7-color
> printer.
>
> 2. I have a Polaroid SprintScan 120 and use it regularly to scan
> b/w medium
> format film. I've been very happy with it. As for dpi, do the
> math and see
> what you need on the input side to get your desired output at
> about 300
> dpi. For example, an 8 x 10 at 300 dpi is 2400 x 3000 pixels.
> A 2800 dpi
> scanner will give about 2660 x 3920 for 35mm -- just enough.
>
> 3. A glossy b/w print is more problematic. I print on matte paper
> with an
> Epson 2000P and an Epson 1280 running third party ink. I like
> the look of
> matte better. For glossy, an Epson 2200 or a 1280 may be
possibility.
> You
> didn't say how long you want the prints to last. If, say, 10-20
> years is
> OK, a 1280 using Epson ColorLife paper may be acceptable. It
> is a semigloss
> paper.
>
> 4. Another option for glossy is having a Lightjet print made
> if you have a
> local lab that offers such.
>
> Jeff Greer
>
> At 11:10 AM 09/01/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >Much of my photo business is shooting Headshots also (see
> >www.rickschiller.com  )    I've  switched to printing digitally,
> scanning
> >from film ( TMY pulled a stop, TMX, FP4, Pan-F )   First big
> problem is
> >giving people glossy prints, no way my clients will accept matte
> finished
> >prints so that limits your ink choice.  On an Epson 860 (4-color)
>  I went
> >with the Lyson Quad blacks and was very disappointed with the
> strong
> >mid-tone magenta cast.  I switched to Lyson Small Gamut and
> am getting
> >better tones.  I use the Lyson paper.   But the big problems
> are as follows:
> >
> >1. Gradation is not as smooth, especially in the highlights.
>  I have a low
> >end scanner ( Canon 2720 ) and really need to upgrade.  I posted
> here 2 days
> >ago and don't know whether to go with a Nikon ls4000/ls40 or
> >Microtek/Polaroid.   And if I need to spend more money on the
> higher end
> >4000 dpi models.
> >2. My digital prints are good and when duped to lithos, ordinarily
> look
> >better then many dupes I've seen from darkroom prints, sharper.
>  But
> >gradation is still lacking.
> >3. I have some test scans from Nikon scanners, they are sharper
> then the
> >Canon 2720.  But the sharpness has a downside in that every
> minute mark on
> >the negs, which would not be picked up in the darkroom, the
> scanner picks up
> >and has to be spotted out in Photoshop.
> >4. There are other issues, I'm tired of writing right now but
> open to all
> >ideas . . . .
> >
> >Yes, until I get it all resolved I'm considering going back
> to darkroom
> >printing or sending all printing work out depending on my level
> of bookings
> >in any given week.
> >
> >Rick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

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page.

Please follow these basic guidelines:
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- Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
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