Digital BW, The Print

Hi 
First let me thank you all for your knowledge, and willingness to 
share it with so many. The time spend by Paul and others has saved my 
time and made my choices much more informed. Again, thank you.
     I am a 26 year old amateur landscape photographer who made the 
leap into the digital world about 2 years ago with a very limited 
budget, an Epson 750 and a Canon FS 2710 film scanner.
     For the past 6 years I've been using a Canon Ellan II 35mm and 
Velvia or Provia Film with good results, including gallery 
exhibitions. Due to the ease of color/BW transformation in Photoshop, 
I have discovered over the past 2 years, I prefer many of my images 
in BW. I received as a gift the Epson 880 printer and using all the 
information on the net, I have transformed it into a quad 
print,getting better and better results. I believe I got as far so I 
can on my own without asking for help.

So it is now, I turn to you for farther guidance.

     I am using MIS v inks on my Epson 880 with EAM and with Paul's 
1160 curves getting good results. But I think I can do better.
     
     a) If Paul's curves are printer/paper specific, how do I adjust 
them ? I scanned a 21 step gradient on my flatbed and set the white 
and black point in Photoshop. My values are off especially in 
highlights and shadows. Is this something I should now adjust with 
transfer curves ? Or do I touch Paul's curves ? Is scanning and 
setting white/black point the way to check the gradient in the first 
place ?  Is the relatively low dynamic range of my flatbed a 
consideration in this testing process ? Will Paul's curves work with 
all papers or should they be adjusted. Does anyone have such transfer 
curves done already ?

     b) I am getting a small amount of dots in highlights but I think 
they are related to the curve adjustments I need to do as discussed 
above.  

     c) If I use the 2880 dpi, Photo Paper setting with the fine art 
paper should I see better prints or just more ink on the page ?

     d) I don't think I see much difference while scanning velvia in 
color or grayscale. Is there a preferred method or is it all the same 
as long as it enters grayscale at some point and the prints in RGB 
using Paul's curves ? 

     e) Since I will be shooting more black and white, should I use 
B/W negatives film, or color print film or should I stick to my 
reversal Provia ? If you think one film type or particular brand 
scanes better, please let me know. 

     f) For split toning, I use two layrs adjusted with two different 
curves. I then cut out a feathered section of the top one. Is this 
the best way to do it ?

 So there you have it.Many questions. Please share your knowledge 
once again. Any and all comments are greatly, greatly appreciated. If 
I asked something already answered please forgive me as I made much 
effort looking up the archive and must have missed it or am trying to 
clearify particulars.  

Thank you to all in advance.

Norbert