Martin, > When you use multiple scans to control a high contrast image, do you > have to do any special blending techniques with your layer masks to > get a smooth transition from one to the other? Nothing special... I will either paint the areas to be masked with a soft brush or I will use any of the selection tools as required with a feathered edge. Or you can draw a path with the pen tool thru or around the areas you wish to mask and then select Gausian blur to blur the mask the amount required for a smooth transition from one layered scan to the next. Another method is to choose the tones you wish to mask with the magic wand, make that selection an alpha channel, blur the channel the amount required for smooth transition, load the channel and apply to the layer mask. I find that blurring the alpha channel can sometimes give me better results to the transition than feathering the selection when making it. If you are trying to make a linear mask then the gradient tool is the way to go, great for sunsets etc. Make your gradient in the layer mask, remake it as many times as you wish till you get the right amount of transition and then you can add and subtract from the gradient's area with a paintbrush. Works better than a split density filter?? If you make a mask from the image (either from an alpha channel or by clicking alt+control+~) Fill mask with black from this selection then alter that mask with blurring, painting, gradients etc. Another great thing is to use the layer sets feature. Put the layers requiring additional masking into a set and then mask the set folder. I'll use this if I've heavily masked a layer and then wish to add a gradient mask. The layer goes into the set folder and the gradient is applied to the folder. > You wrote "... duplicate image layer, desaturate, invert, gausian > blur a bit and then apply over original image layer with an overlay > or soft light blend set from 10 - 30%." Is the 10-30% the > layer "Opacity" or are you using the "Fill Opacity" in the "Advanced > Blending" section? Or do they do the same thing? They do the same thing as will the "general blending" slider in the same window as the "advanced blending" but the "advanced blending" allows you to blend from different channels and has knock out functions. For straight photographic images I just use the opacity slider in the layers palette window. > What are your favorite papers to use with the Epson inks to get a B&W > print? The end of this workflow was for the old non-archival wonderfully glossy "Epson Photo Paper"... That's where I get a neutral print. I have not had that kind of luck without using just the black ink using the archival inks with my 2000P. They print very neutral under tungsten but shift to green under daylight. No amount of curve adjustment changes the green shift (for me) with neutral prints on Epson Archival Matte or watercolor paper. The "black ink only prints" suffer no metamerism whatsoever with Epson Archival inks and EAM. I hate to say that I've only ever used Epson papers... looking forward to using all the papers you folks mention.. with all the wonderful advise given. Thanks for the info on quad tone inks... I'll make the plunge on something this month. I'm leaning towards the PiezoBW to start. > Regarding the CYMK workflow check back through Tyler Boley's posts. > He has been doing just that for quite some time. Also check out Dan > Culbertson's posts. Will do that... thanks very much Martin, Carolyn
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Re: [Digital BW] B&W Prints from a Color Ink Set Re: A dye-ink workflow for B&W on Epson
2001-09-07 by Carolyn Frayn
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