--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Carolyn Frayn <carolyn@u...> wrote: (snip) > Nothing special... Yeah, sure, Carolyn. Considering I didn't even know you could apply filters to alpha channels. I had to print out your message and take some time trying all the different blending methods to really follow you. This is like a mini class in Photoshop. >I will either paint the areas to be masked with a soft > brush or I will use any of the selection tools as required with a feathered > edge. Or you can draw a path with the pen tool thru or around the areas you > wish to mask and then select Gausian blur to blur the mask the amount > required for a smooth transition from one layered scan to the next. > > Another method is to choose the tones you wish to mask with the magic wand, > make that selection an alpha channel, blur the channel the amount required > for smooth transition, load the channel and apply to the layer mask. I find > that blurring the alpha channel can sometimes give me better results to the > transition than feathering the selection when making it. I really like the technique of using the Guassian Blur on the Alpha channel. A great way to select a tonal range for adjustment and have it blend invisibly. > > If you are trying to make a linear mask then the gradient tool is the way to > go, great for sunsets etc. Make your gradient in the layer mask, remake it > as many times as you wish till you get the right amount of transition and > then you can add and subtract from the gradient's area with a paintbrush. > Works better than a split density filter?? Is a 747 faster than a Model T? > > If you make a mask from the image (either from an alpha channel or by > clicking alt+control+~) Fill mask with black from this selection then alter > that mask with blurring, painting, gradients etc. > > Another great thing is to use the layer sets feature. Put the layers > requiring additional masking into a set and then mask the set folder. I'll > use this if I've heavily masked a layer and then wish to add a gradient > mask. The layer goes into the set folder and the gradient is applied to the > folder. Another great tip! > (snip) > > They do the same thing as will the "general blending" slider in the same > window as the "advanced blending" but the "advanced blending" allows you to > blend from different channels and has knock out functions. For straight > photographic images I just use the opacity slider in the layers palette > window. Appreciate the explanation. > (snip) > The end of this workflow was for the old non-archival wonderfully glossy > "Epson Photo Paper"... That's where I get a neutral print. I have not had > that kind of luck without using just the black ink using the archival inks > with my 2000P. They print very neutral under tungsten but shift to green > under daylight. No amount of curve adjustment changes the green shift (for > me) with neutral prints on Epson Archival Matte or watercolor paper. The > "black ink only prints" suffer no metamerism whatsoever with Epson Archival > inks and EAM. That is interesting that the metamerism does not involve all the inks in the set. > > I hate to say that I've only ever used Epson papers... looking forward to > using all the papers you folks mention.. with all the wonderful advise > given. I like the Epson papers with the Epson inks but most of glossy papers do not do well with the pigment quad inks. Archival Matte has a huge following among quad ink users. We just keep looking for that paper that is a little whiter and prints a little darker. There are some wonderful ones out there but it is a very different look. > > Thanks for the info on quad tone inks... I'll make the plunge on something > this month. I'm leaning towards the PiezoBW to start. I believe you said you had a 1200. Are you going to dedicate that to the Piezo? I will recommend that you go for the CIS (Continuous Inking System) as soon as you can. It will save you many headaches and quickly pay for itself. I was going to suggest you check out the Piezo list but I see you have already established yourself as the resident Mac and Photoshop guru! (snip) Here is a question you might be able to answer for me. One of many things that drive me nuts in Photoshop and have lead me to believe that no photographers were involved in designing the program. In the darkroom one of the most important tools is a piece of cardboard to use for dodging and burning during printing. Some people just use their hands. One of the most common things is to burn in the sky using the cardboard to mask the foreground. The sky gets burned down as a gradient from the top. However, I typically bend the cardboard slightly or even into an S shape achieving a gradient burn that follows a curved path. As far as I can tell Photoshop only does gradients along from a straight line or as a sphere. Is there anyway to create a gradient off of a free hand curve or path? Thanks, Martin
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B&W Prints from a Color Ink Set Re: A dye-ink workflow for B&W on Epson
2001-09-07 by Martin Wesley
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