Digital BW, The Print

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Robert G. Morrison" 
<rmorrison@p...> wrote:

(snip)> 
> 
> Didn't know about the Museo 365...that would definitely be a 
contender...but
> probably $$$?

Premium prices but high quality. I really do like the Museo coated 
better than anything else so far.

> 
(snip)
> 
> I'm definitely against taping from my experience.

I will give your method a try and probably get that drying rack.
> 
(snip)
> 
> Usually the paper is not white to begin with...that's why they use 
optical
> brighteners.  From my take the faded color was nice...but not if 
you are
> trying to get bluish prints.  Personally I like a BW print on the 
brown side
> and so the more yellowed paper is not a problem.

This will be a real concern for the MIS users who seem to generally 
be going for a very cool look. If the paper is going to fade to a 
noticeable yellow then it probably not a good choice for them. I 
would think it might be an issue for color also. This is really a 
shame because I think that the Eclipse Satine gives the nicest inkjet 
print I have seen yet.


(snip)

> > 
> > Can you share any of the Dmax data with us? Having varnished some
> > prints, I have seen that the effect is huge but I have no
> > quantitative values.
> 
> Starting coated Dmaxs range from the low 1.9's (Eclipse) to nearly 
2.2
> (Concord Rag).  Honestly, I can't say that this difference compels 
me to
> prefer one paper over the other.  In contrast, a .14 difference, 
say between
> Eclipse uncoated (1.5) and Concord (1.64) makes a world of 
difference in the
> uncoated realm.
> 
(snip).
> 
> I'm also using a DaVinci varnish brush.  I was a painter, so I now 
how to
> use one, but more likely the difference is in the reahology of our 
coatings.
> Try thinning your best coating out with a little distilled 
water...this
> should take care of the brush strokes.  I've worked very hard to 
find a good
> sealant.  You may notice from my original post that I'm using a two 
part
> system.  This is because I really want to wet out the pigment and 
paper and
> seal first...then the top coat is easier to apply.

Robert, I don't know if you have kept up with my posts on my coating 
trials. If not, they are collected in the "Files" section of the 
group's homepage. Also Mark Romine's posts on the Piezo list. Both of 
us have been using "Morrison Mix" as a sealer. 1 part Golden Medium, 
1 part GAC 700 and 1 part water. Did not use distilled water though. 
Mark reports better luck using 2 parts water. Over this I have been 
using the Golden Polymer Varnish UVLS diluted 1 part water with 20% 
Flow Release to 2 parts varnish. I have also worked with the 
Varathane and ClearSheild, a vinyl coating for inkjet printed banners 
for outdoor display.
> 
> > I have used the MIS VM ink set in an Epson 1280 to print on the
> > Eclipse Satine and the results are some of the most pleasing I 
have
> > seen so far. It is really an excellent match of paper and ink. I 
am a
> > bit concerned about the long-term life of the brighteners in the
> > paper though. I have an uncoated print cooking on the rear deck 
of my
> > car to see how it holds up. Your results are reassuring.
> 
> The paper will yellow.

Sigh. Hopefully in proper storage and display this will not happen 
because I really love this paper.

> 
(snip)
> 
> I have several 1270's and I find the inks a nightmare.  I have a 
1270 print
> on concord rag that was made in April that is nearly invisible now 
from
> daylight.  These inks seem to be VERY paper sensitive.

I couldn't get an image to start with! The ink just disappeared into 
the paper!
> 
(snip)
> 
> All polyurethanes are light sensitive...that's why the waterbased 
products
> frequently contain UV inhibitors...its not to protect the 
wood...its to
> protect the coating.  I would still trust an acrylic any day for 
what we
> want the coating to do...that is unless you intend to walk on your
> photos...then I'd definitely go with a polyurethane.  In our tests, 
the
> polyurethane that we used gave the poorest Dmax and the worse fade 
inspite
> of the presence of UV inhibitors...it is not, however, 
Varathene...which is
> what you are using...I believe.

You have more experience in this area, so I defer to your judgment. I 
did find the Varathane much easier to work with than the Golden. I 
used a 1 part water to 2 part varnish as a sealer and top coat. I 
don't have any instruments but the Dmax looked about the same.
> 

(snip)

> > I think you could say the same for most of the polymers.
> 
> Yes, but acrylics (and polyvinyl acetate) are probably 80% of the 
coatings
> market.  Polyurethane come in many fewer flavors and are usually 
targeted at
> high wear markets (industrial coatings, floor coatings, furniture 
coatings).

Did you try any of the vinyl's?

(snip)

Keep us posted on the release date.

Thanks,

Martin