Digital BW, The Print

Paul:
I did not roll the screen door spring/dowel combo, but rather dragged it
(letting its own weight be the major downward force). No rolling.
Thanks to Carl for his link to the wire size charts. Now we can really
talk knowledgeably about our wet film thicknesses.
 
The expansion in print size (1/16" over 11") after coating and drying
was interesting.
 
I will try the "padding" under the print. 
 
In an effort to minimize handling while wet, etc. I was considering a
layer of plastic wrap (wrapping the glass and "padding") under the
print. My thought is that I could leave the wet print taped in place,
minimize handling and still have easy cleanup. Does this seem
reasonable?
 
Let's hope that Epson does not get this information or screen door
springs will be given an Epson part number, cost 49.95 and be
unavailable due to a screen door strike.
S.
 
Stan Shire
Associate Professor/Department Chair
Photographic Imaging
Community College of Philadelphia
Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops

215 751-8320
sshire@...
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Roark [mailto:paul.roark@...] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 12:18 AM
To: DigitalB&WPrint
Subject: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
Stan,

You wrote:

>... screen door parts ... looks like a Mayer Rod ..
>the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length) $2.42.

I like it.  Now we'll have to see if they have different sizes of
springs.

> .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
>.035)

I think the #15 that I started with has .015" wire on it.  I thought
that is
where they got those numbers from.

I find myself using the #30 most now, and I think EAM absorbs so much it
could go to a #45 -- so we may be close here.

> A 1/4" dowel fits nicely inside the spring ...

Does it roll when you drag it across the surface?  I was told not to
roll
the bar, but I'm not sure what effect that would have (aside from
leaving a
lot more of the coating on the rod/spring.

Keep experimenting.

I think the toughest part may be scaling the process up to large prints.
I'm not getting the evenness I'd like to on my 16x20s, and Mark Tucker
has
resorted to spraying for larger prints -- which is more work.

I'm not sure the hard glass surface is the best.  As the print and rod
length get larger, I think maintaining a precise flatness becomes much
more
difficult.  I have found that a couple pieces of paper under an 8x10
helps.
I think more of a cushion under a larger print may be needed.  In the
real
world use of these rods, a flexible web is dragged across the rod.  This
is
flexible enough that the surface being coated conforms to the rod.  I
notice
that Diversified Enterprises uses 1/2 inch glass on its platform, and
they
have a cushion that is also used.

So, I think we may need to experiment with different surfaces.

For cleanup, I also think coated butcher paper makes a lot of sense.

So, my next experiments may include a piece of cloth taped to the glass,
then some butcher paper over that. I've tried some felt, and that was
too
thick.  The resulting coating had lines in it.

So, just keep experimenting.  The results look good enough to warrant
the
effort.

Paul
http://www.PaulRoark.com



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