Digital BW, The Print

> 
> Walking thru Lowe's this morning, I passed the screen door parts
> display. About halfway down the aisle I did a double-take (rarely seen
> in Lowe's). Geez, that looks like a Mayer Rod (Mayer Bar). On closer
> inspection, I was intrigued and, not yet having ordered a Mayer Rod, I
> bought the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length) $2.42.
> I put a digital micrometer (hey, we're talkin' digital printing here so
> I just couldn't use an analog micrometer) on the spring wire..it
> measures about .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
> .035) but I was already in for the $2.42. A 1/4" dowel fits nicely
> inside the spring once I cut the attachment loops off each end.
> Plate glass on my workbench (cabinetmaking bench..honest, it's dead
> flat), taped an Epson Smooth Fine Art print to the glass, dribbled some
> Minwax Polycrylic above the print (note how scientific this is) and
> lightly dragged the rod through the poly and down the print.
> Lovely coating, smooth, no bubbles. The print looks much richer with
> great blacks. Couldn't measure the blacks as I was not up to driving
> downtown to access the densitometer at the college. The coating is
> obviously thicker than Paul's (a Mayer Rod coating is 1/10 the wire
> diameter; so Paul's #14 is .0035 in thick and mine is .0048)
> Cleanup was easy. Pulled the dowel out, rinsed inside and outside with
> water.
> I will get a #14 rod for the thinner coating (unless I can find a
> smaller screen door spring (would that be a number 3 or a #5?)
> 
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops

-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...] 
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 4:14 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
Stan,

So you drag the rod, not turning it?  Hmmmmm.  Will have to try this,
thanks.

Phil

"Shire,Stanley" wrote:
> 
> Walking thru Lowe's this morning, I passed the screen door parts
> display. About halfway down the aisle I did a double-take (rarely seen
> in Lowe's). Geez, that looks like a Mayer Rod (Mayer Bar). On closer
> inspection, I was intrigued and, not yet having ordered a Mayer Rod, I
> bought the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length)
$2.42.
> I put a digital micrometer (hey, we're talkin' digital printing here
so
> I just couldn't use an analog micrometer) on the spring wire..it
> measures about .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
> .035) but I was already in for the $2.42. A 1/4" dowel fits nicely
> inside the spring once I cut the attachment loops off each end.
> Plate glass on my workbench (cabinetmaking bench..honest, it's dead
> flat), taped an Epson Smooth Fine Art print to the glass, dribbled
some
> Minwax Polycrylic above the print (note how scientific this is) and
> lightly dragged the rod through the poly and down the print.
> Lovely coating, smooth, no bubbles. The print looks much richer with
> great blacks. Couldn't measure the blacks as I was not up to driving
> downtown to access the densitometer at the college. The coating is
> obviously thicker than Paul's (a Mayer Rod coating is 1/10 the wire
> diameter; so Paul's #14 is .0035 in thick and mine is .0048)
> Cleanup was easy. Pulled the dowel out, rinsed inside and outside with
> water.
> I will get a #14 rod for the thinner coating (unless I can find a
> smaller screen door spring (would that be a number 3 or a #5?)
> 
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:17  AM, Paul Roark wrote:

> Stan,
>
> You wrote:
>
>> ... screen door parts ... looks like a Mayer Rod ..
>> the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length) $2.42.
>
> I like it.  Now we'll have to see if they have different sizes of 
> springs.
>
>> .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
>> .035)
>
> I think the #15 that I started with has .015" wire on it.  I thought 
> that is
> where they got those numbers from.
>
> I find myself using the #30 most now, and I think EAM absorbs so much 
> it
> could go to a #45 -- so we may be close here.
>
>> A 1/4" dowel fits nicely inside the spring ...
>
> Does it roll when you drag it across the surface?  I was told not to 
> roll
> the bar, but I'm not sure what effect that would have (aside from 
> leaving a
> lot more of the coating on the rod/spring.
>
> Keep experimenting.
>
> I think the toughest part may be scaling the process up to large 
> prints.
> I'm not getting the evenness I'd like to on my 16x20s, and Mark Tucker 
> has
> resorted to spraying for larger prints -- which is more work.
>
> I'm not sure the hard glass surface is the best.  As the print and rod
> length get larger, I think maintaining a precise flatness becomes much 
> more
> difficult.  I have found that a couple pieces of paper under an 8x10 
> helps.
> I think more of a cushion under a larger print may be needed.  In the 
> real
> world use of these rods, a flexible web is dragged across the rod.  
> This is
> flexible enough that the surface being coated conforms to the rod.  I 
> notice
> that Diversified Enterprises uses 1/2 inch glass on its platform, and 
> they
> have a cushion that is also used.
>
> So, I think we may need to experiment with different surfaces.
>
> For cleanup, I also think coated butcher paper makes a lot of sense.
>
> So, my next experiments may include a piece of cloth taped to the 
> glass,
> then some butcher paper over that. I've tried some felt, and that was 
> too
> thick.  The resulting coating had lines in it.
>
> So, just keep experimenting.  The results look good enough to warrant 
> the
> effort.
>
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls 
> and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish 
> to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting 
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>
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>
>

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Roark [mailto:paul.roark@...] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 12:18 AM
To: DigitalB&WPrint
Subject: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
Stan,

You wrote:

>... screen door parts ... looks like a Mayer Rod ..
>the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length) $2.42.

I like it.  Now we'll have to see if they have different sizes of
springs.

> .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
>.035)

I think the #15 that I started with has .015" wire on it.  I thought
that is
where they got those numbers from.

I find myself using the #30 most now, and I think EAM absorbs so much it
could go to a #45 -- so we may be close here.

> A 1/4" dowel fits nicely inside the spring ...

Does it roll when you drag it across the surface?  I was told not to
roll
the bar, but I'm not sure what effect that would have (aside from
leaving a
lot more of the coating on the rod/spring.

Keep experimenting.

I think the toughest part may be scaling the process up to large prints.
I'm not getting the evenness I'd like to on my 16x20s, and Mark Tucker
has
resorted to spraying for larger prints -- which is more work.

I'm not sure the hard glass surface is the best.  As the print and rod
length get larger, I think maintaining a precise flatness becomes much
more
difficult.  I have found that a couple pieces of paper under an 8x10
helps.
I think more of a cushion under a larger print may be needed.  In the
real
world use of these rods, a flexible web is dragged across the rod.  This
is
flexible enough that the surface being coated conforms to the rod.  I
notice
that Diversified Enterprises uses 1/2 inch glass on its platform, and
they
have a cushion that is also used.

So, I think we may need to experiment with different surfaces.

For cleanup, I also think coated butcher paper makes a lot of sense.

So, my next experiments may include a piece of cloth taped to the glass,
then some butcher paper over that. I've tried some felt, and that was
too
thick.  The resulting coating had lines in it.

So, just keep experimenting.  The results look good enough to warrant
the
effort.

Paul
http://www.PaulRoark.com



Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
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keep them short.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Schofield [mailto:scho@...] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:18 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
I think most screen door springs are made of 16 gauge wire (0.05 inch 
diameter) which would equate to a #50 mayer rod.
http://www.gardco.com/rodschart.html

On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:17  AM, Paul Roark wrote:

> Stan,
>
> You wrote:
>
>> ... screen door parts ... looks like a Mayer Rod ..
>> the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length) $2.42.
>
> I like it.  Now we'll have to see if they have different sizes of 
> springs.
>
>> .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
>> .035)
>
> I think the #15 that I started with has .015" wire on it.  I thought 
> that is
> where they got those numbers from.
>
> I find myself using the #30 most now, and I think EAM absorbs so much 
> it
> could go to a #45 -- so we may be close here.
>
>> A 1/4" dowel fits nicely inside the spring ...
>
> Does it roll when you drag it across the surface?  I was told not to 
> roll
> the bar, but I'm not sure what effect that would have (aside from 
> leaving a
> lot more of the coating on the rod/spring.
>
> Keep experimenting.
>
> I think the toughest part may be scaling the process up to large 
> prints.
> I'm not getting the evenness I'd like to on my 16x20s, and Mark Tucker

> has
> resorted to spraying for larger prints -- which is more work.
>
> I'm not sure the hard glass surface is the best.  As the print and rod
> length get larger, I think maintaining a precise flatness becomes much

> more
> difficult.  I have found that a couple pieces of paper under an 8x10 
> helps.
> I think more of a cushion under a larger print may be needed.  In the 
> real
> world use of these rods, a flexible web is dragged across the rod.  
> This is
> flexible enough that the surface being coated conforms to the rod.  I 
> notice
> that Diversified Enterprises uses 1/2 inch glass on its platform, and 
> they
> have a cushion that is also used.
>
> So, I think we may need to experiment with different surfaces.
>
> For cleanup, I also think coated butcher paper makes a lot of sense.
>
> So, my next experiments may include a piece of cloth taped to the 
> glass,
> then some butcher paper over that. I've tried some felt, and that was 
> too
> thick.  The resulting coating had lines in it.
>
> So, just keep experimenting.  The results look good enough to warrant 
> the
> effort.
>
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls 
> and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish 
> to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting 
> this same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to 
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject 
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or 
> "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the 
> various resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> 
> Carl:
> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between the
> mayer rods and the springs.
> 
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>

-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:53 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
Stan,

Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs. 
These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.

Phil Morse

"Shire,Stanley" wrote:
> 
> Carl:
> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between
the
> mayer rods and the springs.
> 
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>


Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:15  PM, Shire,Stanley wrote:

> Phil:
> Thanks for the spring ref. Looks like the stainless steel would be the
> answer. I'm on it. More tests with various wire diameters to come.
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:53 AM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Stan,
>
> Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs.
> These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.
>
> Phil Morse
>
> "Shire,Stanley" wrote:
>>
>> Carl:
>> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
>> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between
> the
>> mayer rods and the springs.
>>
>> Stan Shire
>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>> Photographic Imaging
>> Community College of Philadelphia
>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls 
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
> same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
> "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the 
> various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls 
> and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
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> Please follow these basic guidelines:
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>

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Schofield [mailto:scho@...] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 1:23 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
Many thanks to Stanley, Paul, and Phil for all of the leads and info on 
this coating process.  I just tried the "faux meyer rod" technique with 
a Stanley screen door spring (1/2" OD, about 12" long,zinc coated) and 
some Zar water based poly (not up to specs, but all I could find at the 
local hardware store).  I didn't use a dowel because the spring is 
quite stiff and didn't flex at all when pulling the poly over the 
print.  For the trials I used small UC matte black prints on 8.5x11 
inch 190gsm Eclipse Satine BW, taped to a sheet of glass, with copy 
paper backing as recommended by Paul.  First trial I didn't apply 
enough poly (used about 8cc) and the bead (puddle) was a little skimpy 
at the ends so by the time I reached the bottom of the print I ran out 
of poly and the bottom corners didn't get coated.  Second trial I used 
about 12cc of poly and was more careful laying out the bead across the 
top of the print and got a perfect coat.  I was absolutely stunned by 
the beauty of the surface and depth of the blacks - looks exactly like 
some of my old air dried silver prints on Oriental Seagull.

If you haven't already found it, the McMaster-Carr catalog is online, 
including all of the springs that Phil showed from his catalog:
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Carl
  On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:15  PM, Shire,Stanley wrote:

> Phil:
> Thanks for the spring ref. Looks like the stainless steel would be the
> answer. I'm on it. More tests with various wire diameters to come.
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:53 AM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Stan,
>
> Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs.
> These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.
>
> Phil Morse
>
> "Shire,Stanley" wrote:
>>
>> Carl:
>> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
>> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between
> the
>> mayer rods and the springs.
>>
>> Stan Shire
>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>> Photographic Imaging
>> Community College of Philadelphia
>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls 
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish
to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
> same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
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> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
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> "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
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> various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls 
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
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>


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Tucker <mark@...> [mailto:mark@...] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 4:03 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, 
"Shire,Stanley" <sshire@c...> wrote:
Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew 
there
> was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.)


Stan,

They Hydrocote that I'm using (and Paul) is nasty stuff when it 
comes to drying. It dries very fast, and it will stick to almost 
anything. I've lost several test prints, due to leaving them alone, 
lying flat on wood, or something else. I come back ten minutes 
later, and they are STUCK solid to whatever they were lying on. 

I would suggest maybe a quart can of paint, and then lay the print 
on its back, with the quart of paint dead center of the Letter size 
print. Just so that no coating is touching any part of what its 
resting on.

The coating process is most definitely a double edged sword.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> 
> Ironically, I have switched papers to the Epson Velvet Somerset 
> 505gsm sheet weight in this 9600, and with the tweaked 
> Atkinson profile for it, I am not even feeling the desire to coat 
> them. Which is really a drag after spending all this money and 
> time buying sprayers, etc. That 505 paper is just gorgeous.
> 
> We'll see what happens. I'm sure I'll change my mind tomorrow.
> 
> MT, http://www.marktucker.com/

> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
> 
>

From: "Robert Morrison" <rmorrison@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow


> On 12/8/02 9:57 PM, "Peter Marquis-Kyle" <petermk@...> wrote:
>
> > I have never coated a print with a squeegee or a mayer rod, but it
> > seems to me that screen printing would allow you to put down a
> > precisely defined area of coating -- perhaps just larger than the
> > printed image -- rather than a messy edge that threatens to glue the
> > print to the workbench.
>
> Screen printing is high sheer process and really messy compared to rod
> coating.  It would require formulating a product specifically for that
> application.  I've seen a bunch of prints coated using conventional screen
> top coats and they have been brittle and yellow.
>
> Its possible to mask with a rod if you want the paper exposed.

Robert has an even less optimistic view on silkscreen printing than I have.
But I'm a silkscreen printer.
Silkscreen printing shouldn't be messy. You need more equipment than with
rod application. Manual rod application has its place up to a size and up to
a quantity. Above that you need a dedicated coating machine which could be a
silkscreen table or a machine. And like with any coating for inkjet prints
the coating has to be suitable for the process and the print. When someone
is new to coating and his prints and printruns are small then there's no
substitute for a rod.

Ernst

From: <stevek@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow


> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Marquis-
> Kyle" <petermk@o...> wrote:
> > Steve K wrote suggesting silk screen printing for coating inkjet
> > prints.
> >
> > I have never coated a print with a squeegee or a mayer rod, but it
> > seems to me that screen printing would allow you to put down a
> > precisely defined area of coating -- perhaps just larger than the
> > printed image -- rather than a messy edge that threatens to glue
> the
> > print to the workbench.
> >
> >
> Peter;
>
> Yes, that is an advantage I didn't mention- with a little care and
> refinement in positioning tecnique, you could get as accurate as
> your printer paper positioning allows. I'd like to think you could
> coat only the image area and not the white paper, but the printer
> mechanics would make that inconsistent. But the taping would be on
> the inside of the screen not on the print, which means there's no
> risk of tearing the paper peeling up masking tape.


To get propper registration one could inkjet print some extra marks on the
paper. With overlay transparent film on the silkscreen table you can get the
print at the right spot by aligning the marks to marks put on the
transparent sheet. Usually with small printruns when there's no registration
possible because the deckle is too rough or the artist wants the image at
more places than one I silkscreen print first on a transparent that has been
tape-hinged at one side then put the to be printed sheet underneath it so it
aligns and then flip the transparent aside and print the sheet. Cutting the
sheet carefully on inkjet printed cut marks and then using the normal
registration tabs on the table will work as well.

Any changes in the matt paper colour or texture with waterbased acryl
varnishes are hard to see I have to admit, so printing to the edge of the
image may be a bit over the top for those papers. Of course when you can
create a texture change or gloss to matt difference between margin and image
then it has sense.
The sealing of the paper itself has an advantage when the paper will stain
from air polution if exposed without glass. Hahnemuhle coatings have that
problem.

Ernst

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: mailto:Steven Karafyllakis <stevek@... 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 12:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow


  --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Shire,Stanley" 
  <sshire@c...> wrote:
  > More test results. At Paul's suggestion I laid a few sheets of copy
  > paper under the print. Better. Recommended.
  > I also tried covering the copy paper and glass with Saran Wrap. My
  > thought was to leave the print undisturbed until dry.
  > Bad idea. The poly did not dry on the bottom. I removed it and 
  dried it
  > on a junk matboard. 
  > All was well. Print looks great. Printed a second copy, uncoated 
  for
  > densitometer measurements tomorrow.
  > Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew 
  there
  > was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.)
  >  
  > Stan Shire
  > Associate Professor/Department Chair
  > Photographic Imaging
  > Community College of Philadelphia

  Hi Stanley;

  Not to throw you off on a tangent, but have any of you guys done any 
  silk-screening? I mean the manual fine-art type of course. I think 
  it may be useable as a way to coat large prints. If  not, let me 
  describe the equipment, and why I think it would work.
  A screen-printing frame is a 2"x2" wood frame of whatever size with 
  very fine polyester mesh stretched across it (Iâ?Tm not asking you to 
  wear it now!) and a 2inch or so border of wide paper tape around the 
  inside perimeter of the mesh, also covering the sides of the frame 
  itself.  When you print, the frame is hinged at one end, and 1/8 
  inch high small cardboard slivers at each corner keep it of the 
  paper until youâ?Tre ready to print. When youâ?Tre ready to â?~pull a 
  printâ?T you pour a thick bead of ink onto the protective tape border, 
  put a flat heavy rubber squeegee behind the ink, press down and pull 
  simultaneously all the way down the length of the print until the 
  pool of excess ink is all back on the tape border again. As you pass 
  down, the screen behind you lifts up off the paper, having deposited 
  a smooth layer of ink on your paper, and then pops of completely 
  when you release pressure. A second pas in the other direction fills 
  in any gaps and returns the excess to the top, ready for another 
  pass. Wether or not there is a screen texture in the image depends 
  on the viscosity of the ink and the coarseness of the screen, but I 
  think that coating materials are all much thinner than ink and would 
  lay down flat immediately. Iâ?Tm quite sure that if it does work, (and 
  I think it will) it will work as well for large prints as it does 
  for small ones, and the setup costs are way less than airbrush 
  spraying equipment,  and of course not spraying it is way less 
  dangerous to your health.
  So. My question to you Stan is this: does your College have a 
  screen-printing studio? If it does, perhaps you could go by and 
  watch someone pull a few prints and evaluate the idea? If not, I 
  will eventually try it myself, (I have an old screen around 
  somewhere) but it may be a few weeks before I have the time what 
  with Christmas and other projects in process.

  I look forward to hearing from you

  Steve K

  http://www.stevekphoto.com

     


  > Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
  > Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
  > 
  >


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  - Include your full name with your message.
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