Digital BW, The Print

We don't have a screen printing studio, setup, etc.
What would be used for thee coating,? The poly dries way too fast for this to work and the screen would get mucked up after the first print. Maybe someone with more experience with clear coatings and silkscreen could help
Stan
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: mailto:Steven Karafyllakis <stevek@... 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 12:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow


  --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Shire,Stanley" 
  <sshire@c...> wrote:
  > More test results. At Paul's suggestion I laid a few sheets of copy
  > paper under the print. Better. Recommended.
  > I also tried covering the copy paper and glass with Saran Wrap. My
  > thought was to leave the print undisturbed until dry.
  > Bad idea. The poly did not dry on the bottom. I removed it and 
  dried it
  > on a junk matboard. 
  > All was well. Print looks great. Printed a second copy, uncoated 
  for
  > densitometer measurements tomorrow.
  > Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew 
  there
  > was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.)
  >  
  > Stan Shire
  > Associate Professor/Department Chair
  > Photographic Imaging
  > Community College of Philadelphia

  Hi Stanley;

  Not to throw you off on a tangent, but have any of you guys done any 
  silk-screening? I mean the manual fine-art type of course. I think 
  it may be useable as a way to coat large prints. If  not, let me 
  describe the equipment, and why I think it would work.
  A screen-printing frame is a 2"x2" wood frame of whatever size with 
  very fine polyester mesh stretched across it (Iâ?Tm not asking you to 
  wear it now!) and a 2inch or so border of wide paper tape around the 
  inside perimeter of the mesh, also covering the sides of the frame 
  itself.  When you print, the frame is hinged at one end, and 1/8 
  inch high small cardboard slivers at each corner keep it of the 
  paper until youâ?Tre ready to print. When youâ?Tre ready to â?~pull a 
  printâ?T you pour a thick bead of ink onto the protective tape border, 
  put a flat heavy rubber squeegee behind the ink, press down and pull 
  simultaneously all the way down the length of the print until the 
  pool of excess ink is all back on the tape border again. As you pass 
  down, the screen behind you lifts up off the paper, having deposited 
  a smooth layer of ink on your paper, and then pops of completely 
  when you release pressure. A second pas in the other direction fills 
  in any gaps and returns the excess to the top, ready for another 
  pass. Wether or not there is a screen texture in the image depends 
  on the viscosity of the ink and the coarseness of the screen, but I 
  think that coating materials are all much thinner than ink and would 
  lay down flat immediately. Iâ?Tm quite sure that if it does work, (and 
  I think it will) it will work as well for large prints as it does 
  for small ones, and the setup costs are way less than airbrush 
  spraying equipment,  and of course not spraying it is way less 
  dangerous to your health.
  So. My question to you Stan is this: does your College have a 
  screen-printing studio? If it does, perhaps you could go by and 
  watch someone pull a few prints and evaluate the idea? If not, I 
  will eventually try it myself, (I have an old screen around 
  somewhere) but it may be a few weeks before I have the time what 
  with Christmas and other projects in process.

  I look forward to hearing from you

  Steve K

  http://www.stevekphoto.com

     


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