Digital BW, The Print

More test results. At Paul's suggestion I laid a few sheets of copy
paper under the print. Better. Recommended.
I also tried covering the copy paper and glass with Saran Wrap. My
thought was to leave the print undisturbed until dry.
Bad idea. The poly did not dry on the bottom. I removed it and dried it
on a junk matboard. 
All was well. Print looks great. Printed a second copy, uncoated for
densitometer measurements tomorrow.
Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew there
was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.)
 
Stan Shire
Associate Professor/Department Chair
Photographic Imaging
Community College of Philadelphia
Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops

215 751-8320
sshire@...
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Schofield [mailto:scho@...] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 1:23 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
 
Many thanks to Stanley, Paul, and Phil for all of the leads and info on 
this coating process.  I just tried the "faux meyer rod" technique with 
a Stanley screen door spring (1/2" OD, about 12" long,zinc coated) and 
some Zar water based poly (not up to specs, but all I could find at the 
local hardware store).  I didn't use a dowel because the spring is 
quite stiff and didn't flex at all when pulling the poly over the 
print.  For the trials I used small UC matte black prints on 8.5x11 
inch 190gsm Eclipse Satine BW, taped to a sheet of glass, with copy 
paper backing as recommended by Paul.  First trial I didn't apply 
enough poly (used about 8cc) and the bead (puddle) was a little skimpy 
at the ends so by the time I reached the bottom of the print I ran out 
of poly and the bottom corners didn't get coated.  Second trial I used 
about 12cc of poly and was more careful laying out the bead across the 
top of the print and got a perfect coat.  I was absolutely stunned by 
the beauty of the surface and depth of the blacks - looks exactly like 
some of my old air dried silver prints on Oriental Seagull.

If you haven't already found it, the McMaster-Carr catalog is online, 
including all of the springs that Phil showed from his catalog:
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Carl
  On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:15  PM, Shire,Stanley wrote:

> Phil:
> Thanks for the spring ref. Looks like the stainless steel would be the
> answer. I'm on it. More tests with various wire diameters to come.
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:53 AM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Stan,
>
> Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs.
> These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.
>
> Phil Morse
>
> "Shire,Stanley" wrote:
>>
>> Carl:
>> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
>> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between
> the
>> mayer rods and the springs.
>>
>> Stan Shire
>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>> Photographic Imaging
>> Community College of Philadelphia
>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>
>
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