--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@c...> wrote: > More test results. At Paul's suggestion I laid a few sheets of copy > paper under the print. Better. Recommended. > I also tried covering the copy paper and glass with Saran Wrap. My > thought was to leave the print undisturbed until dry. > Bad idea. The poly did not dry on the bottom. I removed it and dried it > on a junk matboard. > All was well. Print looks great. Printed a second copy, uncoated for > densitometer measurements tomorrow. > Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew there > was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.) > > Stan Shire > Associate Professor/Department Chair > Photographic Imaging > Community College of Philadelphia Hi Stanley; Not to throw you off on a tangent, but have any of you guys done any silk-screening? I mean the manual fine-art type of course. I think it may be useable as a way to coat large prints. If not, let me describe the equipment, and why I think it would work. A screen-printing frame is a 2"x2" wood frame of whatever size with very fine polyester mesh stretched across it (Iâm not asking you to wear it now!) and a 2inch or so border of wide paper tape around the inside perimeter of the mesh, also covering the sides of the frame itself. When you print, the frame is hinged at one end, and 1/8 inch high small cardboard slivers at each corner keep it of the paper until youâre ready to print. When youâre ready to âpull a printâ you pour a thick bead of ink onto the protective tape border, put a flat heavy rubber squeegee behind the ink, press down and pull simultaneously all the way down the length of the print until the pool of excess ink is all back on the tape border again. As you pass down, the screen behind you lifts up off the paper, having deposited a smooth layer of ink on your paper, and then pops of completely when you release pressure. A second pas in the other direction fills in any gaps and returns the excess to the top, ready for another pass. Wether or not there is a screen texture in the image depends on the viscosity of the ink and the coarseness of the screen, but I think that coating materials are all much thinner than ink and would lay down flat immediately. Iâm quite sure that if it does work, (and I think it will) it will work as well for large prints as it does for small ones, and the setup costs are way less than airbrush spraying equipment, and of course not spraying it is way less dangerous to your health. So. My question to you Stan is this: does your College have a screen-printing studio? If it does, perhaps you could go by and watch someone pull a few prints and evaluate the idea? If not, I will eventually try it myself, (I have an old screen around somewhere) but it may be a few weeks before I have the time what with Christmas and other projects in process. I look forward to hearing from you Steve K http://www.stevekphoto.com > Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E. > Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops > >
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Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
2002-12-09 by Steven Karafyllakis <stevek@evcom.net>
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