Digital BW, The Print

Hi BJ,

Makes good sense to me if that's your approach and I certainly have no criticism of it.  I usually print, trim,  mount, cut the widow to be slightly smaller than the print and then sign the back of the mat - different strokes for different folks.... 

I would agree with Robert that if one is  worried about "archival" properties then you would want to be able to remove the print from the mat without taking a strong chance of damaging it. On the other hand the "archival" properties of the various coating materials are yet to be proved as well as potential chemical interactions with the pigments, ink receptor coating and paper base. No question it helps deepen blacks but at what ultimate price? Consider that antique books that were printed on acid free (largely cotton fiber) paper and pigmented inks have had remarkable longevity without any coating. 

If one wanted to push the archival end of things, it would be probably be preferable if the coating could be removed in the instance of darkening or surface damage but I wonder if a polyurethane or acrylic based coating is going to be removable once applied.

Roger


  -----Original Message-----
  From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@...> [mailto:fnbjm1@...]
  Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 2:13 PM
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ?


  Hey Roger --
  I would prefer to coat first, trim the print flush and then mount. 
  My overmats usually have 3/8" to 1/2" border, allowing my signature 
  to show. I suppose I could make the image area smaller than the 
  sheet size, sign below the image on the paper, and mat to cover the 
  outer edge of the paper sheet. I guess the real question is: will 
  the PolyShield hold up to the heat of my press? That's what I'm 
  hoping someone can tell me.
  BJ

  > Hi BJ,
  > 
  > Just winging it since I don't coat my prints except for a quick 
  spray of printguard if I am using dye based inks.  it seems to me 
  that it shouldn't make much difference if you mount the print first. 
  If some of the goop goes onto the mat so what since it will be 
  covered by the overmat with the window in it. 
  > 
  > In fact just wondering further about it, how would (does) the 
  coating plastic hold up to the heat of a mounting press? Maybe 
  mounting then coating would be the prefered way to go. 
  > 
  > Roger
  >   -----Original Message-----
  >   From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@u...> [mailto:fnbjm1@u...]
  >   Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:17 PM
  >   To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
  >   Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ?
  > 
  > 
  >   I've been dry mounting ink prints for over a year and it works 
  very 
  >   well indeed. I prefer the look and stability of dry mounted 
  >   photographic prints, and I have seen instances where hinged 
  prints 
  >   have become detached over time and droop in the mat. (I live in 
  a 
  >   very dry climate.) If the prints are framed and hanging, this is 
  a 
  >   real pain. 
  > 
  >   My current concern is whether or not I will be able to continue 
  dry 
  >   mounting when I start coating prints with PolyShield. Does 
  anyone 
  >   have experience in this area? My coating rods and "goop" have 
  just 
  >   arrived and I plan to give coating a try over the upcoming 
  holidays. 
  >   Any feedback on mounting coated prints would be much appreciated.
  >   BJ



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