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Thread
2002-12-14 by frankg_photo <fh.gross@sympatico.ca>
A potential customer has asked me "does the carbon ink you use tolerate hot dry mounting"? Can anyone answer this for me ? I dont know - never tried it. I think not, since the inks are water soluble, but maybe I'm wrong? I use MIS sepia>neutral on EAM or Photo Rag thanks Frank
2002-12-14 by Edward Wiseman
NO Problem with "hot" dry-mounting Frank....Use Seal (now HUNT) Colormount low temperature mounting sheets..I've been doing this for a couple of years with great success with MIS archival QUAD BLACKS and MEDIASTREET GENERATIONS COLOR..all the way up to 13x19 on 20x24 foamcore or mountboard.. Eddie Wiseman ----- Original Message ----- From: <fh.gross@...> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 8:38 PM Subject: [Digital BW] hot dry mounting - possible ? > A potential customer has asked me "does the carbon ink you use > tolerate hot dry mounting"? Can anyone answer this for me ? > > I dont know - never tried it. I think not, since the inks are water > soluble, but maybe I'm wrong? > I use MIS sepia>neutral on EAM or Photo Rag > thanks > Frank > > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage.
> > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >
2002-12-14 by Roger L Sopher
Works like a charm. Just be careful to protect the surface when you put it into the press. If you are concerned make sure to use a low temperature tissue and set the mounting press accordingly. Roger
-----Original Message----- From: frankg_photo <fh.gross@...> [mailto:fh.gross@...] Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 6:39 PM To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Digital BW] hot dry mounting - possible ? A potential customer has asked me "does the carbon ink you use tolerate hot dry mounting"? Can anyone answer this for me ? I dont know - never tried it. I think not, since the inks are water soluble, but maybe I'm wrong? I use MIS sepia>neutral on EAM or Photo Rag thanks Frank Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - Include your full name with your message. - Include the address of your website, if you have one. - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; - Complete your Yahoo profile. - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2002-12-14 by Mark Tucker <mark@marktucker.com>
hot dry mounting - possible ? > Don't galleries frown on this practice? I didn't think they liked the idea of anything touching the print. My framers use these giant clear vinyl photo corners, and the print just slides in the four corners; nothing is bonded; it's just free-floating. -MT, http://www.marktucker.com
2002-12-14 by Jerry Olson
Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? Use the hinge method. Jerry "frankg_photo " wrote:
> > A potential customer has asked me "does the carbon ink you use > tolerate hot dry mounting"? Can anyone answer this for me ? > > I dont know - never tried it. I think not, since the inks are water > soluble, but maybe I'm wrong? > I use MIS sepia>neutral on EAM or Photo Rag > thanks > Frank > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
2002-12-14 by Austin Franklin
> Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? Hi Jerry, Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no matter what you do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look great. The ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in heavy ink areas. Regards, Austin
2002-12-14 by bjpm77 <fnbjm1@uaf.edu>
I've been dry mounting ink prints for over a year and it works very well indeed. I prefer the look and stability of dry mounted photographic prints, and I have seen instances where hinged prints have become detached over time and droop in the mat. (I live in a very dry climate.) If the prints are framed and hanging, this is a real pain. My current concern is whether or not I will be able to continue dry mounting when I start coating prints with PolyShield. Does anyone have experience in this area? My coating rods and "goop" have just arrived and I plan to give coating a try over the upcoming holidays. Any feedback on mounting coated prints would be much appreciated. BJ -- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "frankg_photo <fh.gross@s...>" <fh.gross@s...> wrote: > A potential customer has asked me "does the carbon ink you use > tolerate hot dry mounting"? Can anyone answer this for me ? > > I dont know - never tried it. I think not, since the inks are water
> soluble, but maybe I'm wrong? > I use MIS sepia>neutral on EAM or Photo Rag > thanks > Frank
2002-12-14 by Roger L Sopher
Hi BJ, Just winging it since I don't coat my prints except for a quick spray of printguard if I am using dye based inks. it seems to me that it shouldn't make much difference if you mount the print first. If some of the goop goes onto the mat so what since it will be covered by the overmat with the window in it. In fact just wondering further about it, how would (does) the coating plastic hold up to the heat of a mounting press? Maybe mounting then coating would be the prefered way to go. Roger
-----Original Message----- From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@...> [mailto:fnbjm1@...] Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:17 PM To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? I've been dry mounting ink prints for over a year and it works very well indeed. I prefer the look and stability of dry mounted photographic prints, and I have seen instances where hinged prints have become detached over time and droop in the mat. (I live in a very dry climate.) If the prints are framed and hanging, this is a real pain. My current concern is whether or not I will be able to continue dry mounting when I start coating prints with PolyShield. Does anyone have experience in this area? My coating rods and "goop" have just arrived and I plan to give coating a try over the upcoming holidays. Any feedback on mounting coated prints would be much appreciated. BJ -- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "frankg_photo <fh.gross@s...>" <fh.gross@s...> wrote: > A potential customer has asked me "does the carbon ink you use > tolerate hot dry mounting"? Can anyone answer this for me ? > > I dont know - never tried it. I think not, since the inks are water > soluble, but maybe I'm wrong? > I use MIS sepia>neutral on EAM or Photo Rag > thanks > Frank Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - Include your full name with your message. - Include the address of your website, if you have one. - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; - Complete your Yahoo profile. - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2002-12-14 by bjpm77 <fnbjm1@uaf.edu>
Hey Roger -- I would prefer to coat first, trim the print flush and then mount. My overmats usually have 3/8" to 1/2" border, allowing my signature to show. I suppose I could make the image area smaller than the sheet size, sign below the image on the paper, and mat to cover the outer edge of the paper sheet. I guess the real question is: will the PolyShield hold up to the heat of my press? That's what I'm hoping someone can tell me. BJ > Hi BJ, > > Just winging it since I don't coat my prints except for a quick spray of printguard if I am using dye based inks. it seems to me that it shouldn't make much difference if you mount the print first. If some of the goop goes onto the mat so what since it will be covered by the overmat with the window in it. > > In fact just wondering further about it, how would (does) the coating plastic hold up to the heat of a mounting press? Maybe mounting then coating would be the prefered way to go. > > Roger > -----Original Message----- > From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@u...> [mailto:fnbjm1@u...] > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:17 PM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? > > > I've been dry mounting ink prints for over a year and it works very > well indeed. I prefer the look and stability of dry mounted > photographic prints, and I have seen instances where hinged prints > have become detached over time and droop in the mat. (I live in a > very dry climate.) If the prints are framed and hanging, this is a > real pain. > > My current concern is whether or not I will be able to continue dry > mounting when I start coating prints with PolyShield. Does anyone > have experience in this area? My coating rods and "goop" have just > arrived and I plan to give coating a try over the upcoming holidays. > Any feedback on mounting coated prints would be much appreciated. > BJ
2002-12-14 by Robert Morrison
What paper are you using that you have this problem Austin? I'm in the 300gm weight papers...and never have buckling issues. In the end I think its a lot easier to spend a little more on thicker paper and then not have to deal with the mounting. Robert PS Then again...perhaps you are using thin papers because of the 3000 feeding?
On 12/14/02 10:09 AM, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...> wrote: > >> Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? > > Hi Jerry, > > Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no matter what you > do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look great. The > ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in heavy ink areas. > > Regards, > > Austin > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other > resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >
2002-12-14 by Robert Morrison
Correct, if you dry mount for an archival application, it needs to be removable. Robert On 12/13/02 10:53 PM, "Mark Tucker <mark@...>" <mark@...> wrote:
> hot dry mounting - possible ? >> > > Don't galleries frown on this practice? I didn't think they liked the > idea of anything touching the print. My framers use these giant > clear vinyl photo corners, and the print just slides in the four > corners; nothing is bonded; it's just free-floating. > > -MT, http://www.marktucker.com > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other > resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >
2002-12-14 by Roger L Sopher
Hi BJ, Makes good sense to me if that's your approach and I certainly have no criticism of it. I usually print, trim, mount, cut the widow to be slightly smaller than the print and then sign the back of the mat - different strokes for different folks.... I would agree with Robert that if one is worried about "archival" properties then you would want to be able to remove the print from the mat without taking a strong chance of damaging it. On the other hand the "archival" properties of the various coating materials are yet to be proved as well as potential chemical interactions with the pigments, ink receptor coating and paper base. No question it helps deepen blacks but at what ultimate price? Consider that antique books that were printed on acid free (largely cotton fiber) paper and pigmented inks have had remarkable longevity without any coating. If one wanted to push the archival end of things, it would be probably be preferable if the coating could be removed in the instance of darkening or surface damage but I wonder if a polyurethane or acrylic based coating is going to be removable once applied. Roger
-----Original Message----- From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@...> [mailto:fnbjm1@...] Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 2:13 PM To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? Hey Roger -- I would prefer to coat first, trim the print flush and then mount. My overmats usually have 3/8" to 1/2" border, allowing my signature to show. I suppose I could make the image area smaller than the sheet size, sign below the image on the paper, and mat to cover the outer edge of the paper sheet. I guess the real question is: will the PolyShield hold up to the heat of my press? That's what I'm hoping someone can tell me. BJ > Hi BJ, > > Just winging it since I don't coat my prints except for a quick spray of printguard if I am using dye based inks. it seems to me that it shouldn't make much difference if you mount the print first. If some of the goop goes onto the mat so what since it will be covered by the overmat with the window in it. > > In fact just wondering further about it, how would (does) the coating plastic hold up to the heat of a mounting press? Maybe mounting then coating would be the prefered way to go. > > Roger > -----Original Message----- > From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@u...> [mailto:fnbjm1@u...] > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:17 PM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? > > > I've been dry mounting ink prints for over a year and it works very > well indeed. I prefer the look and stability of dry mounted > photographic prints, and I have seen instances where hinged prints > have become detached over time and droop in the mat. (I live in a > very dry climate.) If the prints are framed and hanging, this is a > real pain. > > My current concern is whether or not I will be able to continue dry > mounting when I start coating prints with PolyShield. Does anyone > have experience in this area? My coating rods and "goop" have just > arrived and I plan to give coating a try over the upcoming holidays. > Any feedback on mounting coated prints would be much appreciated. > BJ Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - Include your full name with your message. - Include the address of your website, if you have one. - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; - Complete your Yahoo profile. - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2002-12-14 by Robert Morrison
On 12/14/02 2:49 PM, "Roger L Sopher" <rlsopher@...> wrote: > I would agree with Robert that if one is worried about "archival" properties > then you would want to be able to remove the print from the mat without taking > a strong chance of damaging it. On the other hand the "archival" properties of > the various coating materials are yet to be proved as well as potential > chemical interactions with the pigments, ink receptor coating and paper base. I can't speak for Hydrocote...because it is a completely unknown quantity in the museum realm, but if you go for the acrylic route these are already accepted in museums in the form of acrylic artist's paintings. The carbon black in our ink sets aren't appreciably different than artist's painting pigments...so you don't have to worry about an acrylic interacting with the pigment based ink sets. Now dye ink sets may be a whole different story, but I don't think that anyone trying to make archival digital prints at this point is actually using dyes. Robert
2002-12-14 by Roger L Sopher
Hi Robert, I think you missed my point. Acrylic paints are somewhat a different kettle of fish than coating a sheet of what is appreciably watercolor paper with a sealer of some ilk. My wife is a professional artist and paints with all media including acrylics so I am reasonable familiar with them and their properties. (I would like a buck for every canvas I have stretched for her or worse every egg tempera panel I have made.) I think the unknown is the effect of encapsulating (for want of a more precise term) an ink & paper product with some form of polymeric plastic. The liquid material is going to penetrate, to some degree depending on a host of factors into the paper and the possibility of some interaction is, I think, real. With carbon based inks it is probably minimal but... A lot of years ago I was involved in doing cabins material safety for the Apollo capsule and many "cured" encapsulation materials continued to be reactive and/or outgas for a significant period of time even though they were "solid" causing them to be rejected for use in the cabin. The stuff that came off was occasionally something that had not been predicted due to various interactions. It may well be that newer materials will not have those problems and coated prints will last for hundreds of years. At this point do we really know? As long as coating doesn't decrease the life of a print this is a non-issue. If it is neutral and produces a pleasing effect then it is a plus. If it decreases print life then it is something that has to be factored into its use. Caveat Pictor, if you will. Roger
-----Original Message----- From: Robert Morrison [mailto:rmorrison@...] Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:08 PM To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? On 12/14/02 2:49 PM, "Roger L Sopher" <rlsopher@...> wrote: > I would agree with Robert that if one is worried about "archival" properties > then you would want to be able to remove the print from the mat without taking > a strong chance of damaging it. On the other hand the "archival" properties of > the various coating materials are yet to be proved as well as potential > chemical interactions with the pigments, ink receptor coating and paper base. I can't speak for Hydrocote...because it is a completely unknown quantity in the museum realm, but if you go for the acrylic route these are already accepted in museums in the form of acrylic artist's paintings. The carbon black in our ink sets aren't appreciably different than artist's painting pigments...so you don't have to worry about an acrylic interacting with the pigment based ink sets. Now dye ink sets may be a whole different story, but I don't think that anyone trying to make archival digital prints at this point is actually using dyes. Robert Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - Include your full name with your message. - Include the address of your website, if you have one. - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; - Complete your Yahoo profile. - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2002-12-15 by Jerry Olson
I've never had a buckle, Austin. Humidity must play a part in this process. A lot of galleries won't accept dry mounting any more. Of course I'm not in that class of photographers that care about this, as I don't expect to see any of my work in a top gallery in my lifetime. I've seen a lot of exhibits where the photograph or watercolor is simply mounted in giant clear triangles at the corner, and the print is all buckled, and looks terrible. But that's the way the galleries wanted photos and art prints to be mounted. I've seen a LOT of dry mounted photos start to get large air pockets in them, so I wouldn't consider dry mounting that permanent either. Jerry Austin Franklin wrote:
> > > Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? > > Hi Jerry, > > Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no matter what you > do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look great. The > ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in heavy ink areas. > > Regards, > > Austin > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
2002-12-15 by Robert Morrison
On 12/14/02 3:43 PM, "Roger L Sopher" <rlsopher@...> wrote: > Hi Robert, > > I think you missed my point. Acrylic paints are somewhat a different kettle of > fish than coating a sheet of what is appreciably watercolor paper with a > sealer of some ilk. My wife is a professional artist and paints with all media > including acrylics so I am reasonable familiar with them and their properties. > (I would like a buck for every canvas I have stretched for her or worse every > egg tempera panel I have made.) Acrylics are made to be used on watercolor paper. I am aware of the basic chemistry in the ink receptive layers on these matte papers and there is nothing that will be incompatible with acrylic emulsion polymers. > I think the unknown is the effect of encapsulating (for want of a more precise > term) an ink & paper product with some form of polymeric plastic. The liquid > material is going to penetrate, to some degree depending on a host of factors > into the paper and the possibility of some interaction is, I think, real. With > carbon based inks it is probably minimal but... The technology of overprinting inks/paint is not new...and neither are most of the polymers being used in these coatings...it dates back into the 50's (Hydrocote is an exception here)...so we have a very good idea of what will happen. In fact these acrylic polymers are frequently used in exterior house paint...a rather demanding application. > > It may well be that newer materials will not have those problems and coated > prints will last for hundreds of years. At this point do we really know? As > long as coating doesn't decrease the life of a print this is a non-issue. If > it is neutral and produces a pleasing effect then it is a plus. If it > decreases print life then it is something that has to be factored into its > use. Caveat Pictor, if you will. > The only thing that I'm pretty sure of is that the inkjet inks themselves will probably not last for hundred's of years. All projective testing is a crape shoot at this point. The important thing is that we do relative testing...testing coated vs. uncoated prints in faders and windows. That's the best that we can do at this point...and several of us are working on that. I have a very large test that will be going into a window in a couple of days...so we should have some idea where things stand in the next couple of months. I did another large fade test about a year ago. This involved many different types of polymers and vehicles. The basic results showed a dramatic improvement in lightfastness for coated Sundance PiezoBW ink with a variety of different coatings. We have made major strides in the last year in finding products and coating techniques that make the coating much easier...now we'll see if they protect as well as what I was doing a year ago. Robert
> -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Morrison [mailto:rmorrison@...] > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:08 PM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? > > > On 12/14/02 2:49 PM, "Roger L Sopher" <rlsopher@...> wrote: > >> I would agree with Robert that if one is worried about "archival" properties >> then you would want to be able to remove the print from the mat without >> taking >> a strong chance of damaging it. On the other hand the "archival" properties >> of >> the various coating materials are yet to be proved as well as potential >> chemical interactions with the pigments, ink receptor coating and paper base. > > I can't speak for Hydrocote...because it is a completely unknown quantity in > the museum realm, but if you go for the acrylic route these are already > accepted in museums in the form of acrylic artist's paintings. The carbon > black in our ink sets aren't appreciably different than artist's painting > pigments...so you don't have to worry about an acrylic interacting with the > pigment based ink sets. Now dye ink sets may be a whole different story, > but I don't think that anyone trying to make archival digital prints at this > point is actually using dyes. > > Robert > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other > resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other > resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >
2002-12-15 by Mark Tucker <mark@marktucker.com>
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@i...> wrote: > Hi Jerry, > Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no matter what you > do. ---------------- I have found this to be true as well. In the larger sizes, especially after being coating with Hydrocote, the prints tend to dry with a wave to them. I just framed a print two days ago and could not get the wave out; the print was hinged and it showed buckling/waving in the mat, inside the frame. I actually had to go all the way back and reprint it and recoat it, because I wasn't willing to spray mount it or dry mount it. I think this is an issue that I have not resolved yet. Purists really frown on dry-mounting, so I don't want to go there. I thought maybe some type of very stiff backing board, inside the frame, behind the rear mat, might provide enough pressure, and enough stiffness, that it would take out the waviness, but then you run into space limitations inside the frame, in how many layers of material you can cram in there. Still a work in progress, for sure. MT, http://www.marktucker.com/
2002-12-15 by Austin Franklin
Hi Jerry, > I've never had a buckle, Austin. I don't know what paper you use, Jerry...or what your images look like, or what size you print, but anything I print above 8.5 x 11 has "buckles". > Humidity must play a part in this > process. In what direction? My lab is under 35%, so I doubt it. > I've seen a LOT of dry mounted photos start to get large air pockets in > them, so I wouldn't consider dry mounting that permanent either. Then they are done incorrectly. Austin
2002-12-15 by Austin Franklin
Hi Robert, Epson HW Matte. I use a pair of 3000s. I like the images I get on this paper, and don't mind drymounting one bit. Austin
> -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Morrison [mailto:rmorrison@...] > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:42 PM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] hot dry mounting - possible ? > > > What paper are you using that you have this problem Austin? I'm in the > 300gm weight papers...and never have buckling issues. In the end I think > its a lot easier to spend a little more on thicker paper and then not have > to deal with the mounting. > > Robert > > PS Then again...perhaps you are using thin papers because of the 3000 > feeding? > > On 12/14/02 10:09 AM, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...> wrote: > > > > >> Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? > > > > Hi Jerry, > > > > Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no > matter what you > > do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look > great. The > > ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in > heavy ink areas. > > > > Regards, > > > > Austin
2002-12-15 by Austin Franklin
I believe someone in this group recommended the Nikon digital discussion list, d1scussion. Who, on this group, is on that list? Austin
2002-12-15 by Robert Morrison
On 12/14/02 7:17 PM, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...> wrote: Ah, that explains it. Why do you use HW matte instead of EAM? Robert
> Hi Robert, > > Epson HW Matte. I use a pair of 3000s. I like the images I get on this > paper, and don't mind drymounting one bit. > > Austin > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Robert Morrison [mailto:rmorrison@...] >> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:42 PM >> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] hot dry mounting - possible ? >> >> >> What paper are you using that you have this problem Austin? I'm in the >> 300gm weight papers...and never have buckling issues. In the end I think >> its a lot easier to spend a little more on thicker paper and then not have >> to deal with the mounting. >> >> Robert >> >> PS Then again...perhaps you are using thin papers because of the 3000 >> feeding? >> >> On 12/14/02 10:09 AM, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...> wrote: >> >>> >>>> Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? >>> >>> Hi Jerry, >>> >>> Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no >> matter what you >>> do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look >> great. The >>> ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in >> heavy ink areas. >>> >>> Regards, >>> >>> Austin > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other > resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >
2002-12-15 by Paul Roark
>will the PolyShield hold up to the heat of my press? Yes. I've dry mounted Hydrocote Polyshield coated prints. I keep the press to 180 and use Seal Colormount. Use a fairly fresh release sheet on the top. I've been told to wait several days to dry mount it, however. The cross-linking is apparently slow and goes on to some extent during the 7 day cure period. Paul http://www.PaulRoark.com _______________________________________
-----Original Message----- From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@...> [mailto:fnbjm1@...] Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:13 PM To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? Hey Roger -- I would prefer to coat first, trim the print flush and then mount. My overmats usually have 3/8" to 1/2" border, allowing my signature to show. I suppose I could make the image area smaller than the sheet size, sign below the image on the paper, and mat to cover the outer edge of the paper sheet. I guess the real question is: will the PolyShield hold up to the heat of my press? That's what I'm hoping someone can tell me. BJ > Hi BJ, > > Just winging it since I don't coat my prints except for a quick spray of printguard if I am using dye based inks. it seems to me that it shouldn't make much difference if you mount the print first. If some of the goop goes onto the mat so what since it will be covered by the overmat with the window in it. > > In fact just wondering further about it, how would (does) the coating plastic hold up to the heat of a mounting press? Maybe mounting then coating would be the prefered way to go. > > Roger > -----Original Message----- > From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@u...> [mailto:fnbjm1@u...] > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:17 PM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? > > > I've been dry mounting ink prints for over a year and it works very > well indeed. I prefer the look and stability of dry mounted > photographic prints, and I have seen instances where hinged prints > have become detached over time and droop in the mat. (I live in a > very dry climate.) If the prints are framed and hanging, this is a > real pain. > > My current concern is whether or not I will be able to continue dry > mounting when I start coating prints with PolyShield. Does anyone > have experience in this area? My coating rods and "goop" have just > arrived and I plan to give coating a try over the upcoming holidays. > Any feedback on mounting coated prints would be much appreciated. > BJ Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - Include your full name with your message. - Include the address of your website, if you have one. - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; - Complete your Yahoo profile. - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2002-12-15 by dougndot <dougndot@yahoo.com>
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> wrote: > >will the PolyShield hold up to the heat of my press? > > Yes. I've dry mounted Hydrocote Polyshield coated prints. I keep the press > to 180 and use Seal Colormount. Use a fairly fresh release sheet on the > top. > > I've been told to wait several days to dry mount it, however. The > cross-linking is apparently slow and goes on to some extent during the 7 day > cure period. > > Paul > http://www.PaulRoark.com > > Coated, heat sensitive foam core eliminates dry mount tissue and can be processed at 130-150 degrees for 30 seconds which helps both r/c photo papers as well as coated ink jet paper. Overlap at least 30% if print size larger than press surface._______________________________________ > > > -----Original Message----- > From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@u...> [mailto:fnbjm1@u...] > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:13 PM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? > > > Hey Roger -- > I would prefer to coat first, trim the print flush and then mount. > My overmats usually have 3/8" to 1/2" border, allowing my signature > to show. I suppose I could make the image area smaller than the > sheet size, sign below the image on the paper, and mat to cover the > outer edge of the paper sheet. I guess the real question is: will > the PolyShield hold up to the heat of my press? That's what I'm > hoping someone can tell me. > BJ > > > Hi BJ, > > > > Just winging it since I don't coat my prints except for a quick > spray of printguard if I am using dye based inks. it seems to me > that it shouldn't make much difference if you mount the print first. > If some of the goop goes onto the mat so what since it will be > covered by the overmat with the window in it. > > > > In fact just wondering further about it, how would (does) the > coating plastic hold up to the heat of a mounting press? Maybe > mounting then coating would be the prefered way to go. > > > > Roger > > -----Original Message----- > > From: bjpm77 <fnbjm1@u...> [mailto:fnbjm1@u...] > > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:17 PM > > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: hot dry mounting - possible ? > > > > > > I've been dry mounting ink prints for over a year and it works > very > > well indeed. I prefer the look and stability of dry mounted > > photographic prints, and I have seen instances where hinged > prints > > have become detached over time and droop in the mat. (I live in > a > > very dry climate.) If the prints are framed and hanging, this is > a > > real pain. > > > > My current concern is whether or not I will be able to continue > dry > > mounting when I start coating prints with PolyShield. Does > anyone > > have experience in this area? My coating rods and "goop" have > just > > arrived and I plan to give coating a try over the upcoming > holidays. > > Any feedback on mounting coated prints would be much appreciated. > > BJ > > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and > other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2002-12-15 by Austin Franklin
Hi Robert, Er, explains what? EAM was not available when I bought a bulk buy of HW matte...and I like the look of HW matte. I may or may not switch when I run out. I'm sure I'll at least try EAM though at some time. Austin
> Ah, that explains it. Why do you use HW matte instead of EAM? > > Robert > > > Hi Robert, > > > > Epson HW Matte. I use a pair of 3000s. I like the images I get on this > > paper, and don't mind drymounting one bit. > > > > Austin > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Robert Morrison [mailto:rmorrison@...] > >> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:42 PM > >> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > >> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] hot dry mounting - possible ? > >> > >> > >> What paper are you using that you have this problem Austin? I'm in the > >> 300gm weight papers...and never have buckling issues. In the > end I think > >> its a lot easier to spend a little more on thicker paper and > then not have > >> to deal with the mounting. > >> > >> Robert > >> > >> PS Then again...perhaps you are using thin papers because of the 3000 > >> feeding? > >> > >> On 12/14/02 10:09 AM, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...> wrote: > >> > >>> > >>>> Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? > >>> > >>> Hi Jerry, > >>> > >>> Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no > >> matter what you > >>> do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look > >> great. The > >>> ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in > >> heavy ink areas. > >>> > >>> Regards, > >>> > >>> Austin
2002-12-15 by Jerry Olson
> > I've never had a buckle, Austin. > > I don't know what paper you use, Jerry...or what your images look like, or > what size you print, but anything I print above 8.5 x 11 has "buckles". Not mine, up to 13x18. Maybe you are using thinner paper. I'm assuming you do NOT mean "waves" in the paper that sometimes appear in a print as it comes off the printer. This isn't what I was referring to. That is almost certainly caused by a combination of too thin paper and high humidity. What else could cause buckles than humidity, unless they came off the printer buckled. (not wavy). Ordinary typing paper buckles and waves terribly, but not 300 gsm papers. > > Humidity must play a part in this > > process. > > In what direction? My lab is under 35%, so I doubt it. > > I've seen a LOT of dry mounted photos start to get large air pockets in > > them, so I wouldn't consider dry mounting that permanent either. > > Then they are done incorrectly. How can one tell when one is dry mounting whether he is doing it incorrectly? If you follow the directions, you follow the directions. As long as you pre heat the paper and matte board, and use a high enough but not too high temperature, and use the time the mounting paper specifies, what else can you do? Jerry
2002-12-15 by Austin Franklin
Jerry, > > > I've never had a buckle, Austin. > > > > I don't know what paper you use, Jerry...or what your images > look like, or > > what size you print, but anything I print above 8.5 x 11 has "buckles". > > Not mine, up to 13x18. Maybe you are using thinner paper. As I've said, EHWM. > What else could cause buckles than humidity... Er, the ink... > > > Humidity must play a part in this > > > process. > > > > In what direction? My lab is under 35%, so I doubt it. > > > > I've seen a LOT of dry mounted photos start to get large air > pockets in > > > them, so I wouldn't consider dry mounting that permanent either. > > > > Then they are done incorrectly. > > How can one tell when one is dry mounting whether he is doing it > incorrectly? If your prints get air pockets, they are done incorrectly. > If you follow the directions, you follow the directions. > As long as you pre heat the paper and matte board, and use a high enough > but not too high temperature, and use the time the mounting paper > specifies, what else can you do? If you are getting bubbles, then something IS not being done right, and your times/materials need adjusting. Regards, Austin
2002-12-15 by Ton Guiking
Hello, Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not quite sure what process hot dry mounting involves. Anyway, I'm just in the process of getting information on how to mount digital prints. Or to state it more precise: How do you mount a 44 * 12 " photograph? A friend bought two of these, one for her, one for me. It's printed on an Epson 2100, don't know what paper, I think EAM (?), but the back doesn't say anything, just plain paper (from a roll). My friend wants to glue her copy to a piece of MDF (woodboard). What glue would you advise, what would be definitely be avoided? (I am still doubting about what the best way is to mount is, without having to shell out four times the price of the photo for an expensive frame). TIA, Ton Guiking
2002-12-15 by Tom <pouty_bob@yahoo.com>
Hi Austin, this is probably not the list you mean... and I wasn't the one you refer to, but I'm on the nikon5000 list..! while it lacks the activity and multiple viewpoints this group can boast, it is a great source for specifically coolpix related questions. Tom --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@i...> wrote:
> I believe someone in this group recommended the Nikon digital discussion > list, d1scussion. Who, on this group, is on that list? > > Austin
2002-12-16 by Jerry Olson
Austin, I've not had buckles or air pockets, but I've seen a lot of old dry mounted photos that had them. Why use EHWM instead of EAM? Just curious. Jerrry
2002-12-16 by Austin Franklin
Hi Jerry, > Why use EHWM instead of EAM? Just curious. It is a good question...when I bought my large batch of EHWM, EAM did not exist. Regards, Austin
2002-12-16 by Robert Morrison
On 12/15/02 6:53 AM, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...> wrote: The wrinkling and ink saturation problems that you are having...and also the fact that you need to use a thinner paper because of the 3000 feeding issues. I regularly print 300gm+ weight papers and they lay completely flat after being printed...even with coated with water based coatings...but I'm printing through a 1280, 2200 and 7000 which can all handle the heavier papers. In the end EAM and HW Matte are very thin papers capable of taking very light ink loads. Robert
> > Hi Robert, > > Er, explains what? EAM was not available when I bought a bulk buy of HW > matte...and I like the look of HW matte. I may or may not switch when I run > out. I'm sure I'll at least try EAM though at some time. > > Austin > > >> Ah, that explains it. Why do you use HW matte instead of EAM? >> >> Robert >> >>> Hi Robert, >>> >>> Epson HW Matte. I use a pair of 3000s. I like the images I get on this >>> paper, and don't mind drymounting one bit. >>> >>> Austin >>> >>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: Robert Morrison [mailto:rmorrison@...] >>>> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:42 PM >>>> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com >>>> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] hot dry mounting - possible ? >>>> >>>> >>>> What paper are you using that you have this problem Austin? I'm in the >>>> 300gm weight papers...and never have buckling issues. In the >> end I think >>>> its a lot easier to spend a little more on thicker paper and >> then not have >>>> to deal with the mounting. >>>> >>>> Robert >>>> >>>> PS Then again...perhaps you are using thin papers because of the 3000 >>>> feeding? >>>> >>>> On 12/14/02 10:09 AM, "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...> wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>>> Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? >>>>> >>>>> Hi Jerry, >>>>> >>>>> Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no >>>> matter what you >>>>> do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look >>>> great. The >>>>> ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in >>>> heavy ink areas. >>>>> >>>>> Regards, >>>>> >>>>> Austin > > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other > resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >
2002-12-16 by Austin Franklin
But Robert... > The wrinkling and ink saturation problems It's not a problem...really ;-)
> that you are > having...and also the > fact that you need to use a thinner paper because of the 3000 feeding > issues. I regularly print 300gm+ weight papers and they lay > completely flat > after being printed...even with coated with water based coatings...but I'm > printing through a 1280, 2200 and 7000 which can all handle the heavier > papers. In the end EAM and HW Matte are very thin papers capable > of taking > very light ink loads. > > Robert > > > > > Hi Robert, > > > > Er, explains what? EAM was not available when I bought a bulk buy of HW > > matte...and I like the look of HW matte. I may or may not > switch when I run > > out. I'm sure I'll at least try EAM though at some time. > > > > Austin > > > > > >> Ah, that explains it. Why do you use HW matte instead of EAM? > >> > >> Robert > >> > >>> Hi Robert, > >>> > >>> Epson HW Matte. I use a pair of 3000s. I like the images I > get on this > >>> paper, and don't mind drymounting one bit. > >>> > >>> Austin > >>> > >>> > >>>> -----Original Message----- > >>>> From: Robert Morrison [mailto:rmorrison@...] > >>>> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:42 PM > >>>> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > >>>> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] hot dry mounting - possible ? > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> What paper are you using that you have this problem Austin? > I'm in the > >>>> 300gm weight papers...and never have buckling issues. In the > >> end I think > >>>> its a lot easier to spend a little more on thicker paper and > >> then not have > >>>> to deal with the mounting. > >>>> > >>>> Robert > >>>> > >>>> PS Then again...perhaps you are using thin papers because > of the 3000 > >>>> feeding? > >>>> > >>>> On 12/14/02 10:09 AM, "Austin Franklin" > <darkroom@...> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> Yes, you can dry mount inkjet prints, but Why would you want to? > >>>>> > >>>>> Hi Jerry, > >>>>> > >>>>> Because in the larger sizes, the prints do not lay flat...no > >>>> matter what you > >>>>> do. I find dry mounting works perfectly, and the prints look > >>>> great. The > >>>>> ink and paper on the matte papers seem to "buckle" a bit in > >>>> heavy ink areas. > >>>>> > >>>>> Regards, > >>>>> > >>>>> Austin
2002-12-16 by Jason DeFontes
Here's what I do to flatten watercolors and other stuff on paper that has a tendency to buckle: Get a fine mist spray bottle and fill it with water. Lightly mist the paper on the back on the back side, you want it damp, but not dripping. Put the paper between two sheets of blotter paper, and put a flat board - like a piece of 3/4 plywood - on top. Put some weights on top of the board, then forget about it for a day or two. Usually takes out all the waves and leaves stuff flat enough for framing. -Jason
-----Original Message----- From: Mark Tucker <mark@...> [mailto:mark@...] I think this is an issue that I have not resolved yet. Purists really frown on dry-mounting, so I don't want to go there. I thought maybe some type of very stiff backing board, inside the frame, behind the rear mat, might provide enough pressure, and enough stiffness, that it would take out the waviness, but then you run into space limitations inside the frame, in how many layers of material you can cram in there. Still a work in progress, for sure. MT, http://www.marktucker.com/