Paul; I've always been a bit of a contrarian when it comes to dry- mounting. My feeling is the primary function of an art piece is to be on display, hopefully giving its owner a little pleasure every day, and ther's no way a photo or a print (on any but the heaviest papers) will stay flat and look nice for any length of time without being mounted. I'll bet quite a few valuable prints have been damaged over the years by carelesness precisely becuase they were unmounted and unprotected. As for the Cone Museum K - I've been printing with it for a few days, about to finish my first cart. My impressions? I like the way it looks, it blends well with my customized MIS set, adding just a little bit more Dmax. Nothing drastic mind you, but noticeable. The tone is very neutral in daylight, but it has a tiny bit of metamerism indoors, shifting a bit to the selenium-brown side. That's some thing I can live with, I like that much better than the yellow-brown of straight MIS black. On the down side, I find myself doing more cleaning cycles, almost before every print; I have to do at least a nozzle check first, and that gets anoying. I think the Museum K simply dries faster. I going to try a few drops of Windex on the parking pad every night before I put it to bed, maybe that'll help in the morning at least--- Steve K In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> wrote: > Steve, > > >I assume that since ... you also haven't tested dry-mounted prints? > > No, I haven't tested them. > > > I would guess that the mount board and > >glue/tissue would help, if a barrier does indeed make a difference? > > That is what I've heard. Collectors and conservators hate the dry mounting > or any non-reversible process. However, from what I've heard, which is > consistent with what I've seen, the dry mounted prints are usually in better > shape. I just received an old mounted print today. The mount board was not > archival, and the acid has caused it to almost turn to dust. The print, > however, is in surprisingly good shape. The mount tissue seems to have > isolated it even from the acidic board, at least to a certain extent. > > > > >> I just bought a 7500 and think it will make a great B&W machine. > I'm > >> currently planning on using the coated Epson Archival black > pigment mixed as > >> an FS/Piezo-compatible "quad." I'll print with the Epson driver > an use the > >> double-cyan ink placement method. (In short, I'm going to go with > the > >> Epson-coated pigs rather than rely on post-printing coating to > protect the > >> individual pigment particles. Whether I use post-printing coating > for dmax > >> and physical protection depends on other factors.) > > >Is it possible to buy the Epson archival black in bottles, or are > <you sucking it out of cartridges? > > It'll be pulled out of 10000 carts. > > > Also, What is the double-cyan ink placement method? > > I'm going to try cyan in both cyan and magenta, and then the magenta density > in both the light/photo positions. Yellow (lightest FS/Piezo ink) will stay > in the yellow position. > > >... I did go ahead with the 7500- > > Congratulations. > > >...I do like the idea of an Epson arch. K inkset, > >that would put my mind to rest, even if it cost a bit more. > > The 10000 carts can be purchased for in the $130 range. That 500 ml is > mostly diluted for the midtones. The black will get you up to 2.2 on RC > paper. That dmax and 100+ years are something to think about. > > I still prefer the matte look, even if the dmax is lower. For matte, the > Archival K dmax is closer to 1.50. Too bad. I'm leaning toward the Cone > Museum K for that. The fade tests Cone published for the Museum K look very > good, as do the prints I've made with an initial purchase of 4 oz. The 220 > ml "universal" cart is about $75. > > Paul > http://www.PaulRoark.com
Message
Re: [Digital BW] Relative fade properties for coated prints?
2003-01-12 by Steven Karafyllakis <stevek@evcom.net>
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