Digital BW, The Print

Paul, I have read some but not all the posts on this thread.  I see you are
leaning toward the Epson inks.  Do you have any feel for relative permanence
of the VM-S inks on HPR or EEM, vs. the Epson inks on (?) paper?  (I am
using the VM-S inks with your curves and very satisfied....for once)   If
the Epson inks are much better "archivally", how do you handle the problems
of getting an accurate b&w print with color inks?  Most everything I print
goes in dark storage until it is framed.  Thanks for any info.

BTW, I tend to think a lot of the problem with silver prints is inadequate
fixing and washing.  The AA technique, which I used for a long time, was to
use two fixing baths, the first somewhat hardened fixer and the second plain
hypo, for three minutes each.  I think these were difficult prints to wash.
The Ilford 60-second fix, with a good print washer, is better.  Also, a lot
of those prints were not adequately washed before being toned in selenium.
Or the drying screens were contaminated with hypo, etc.  I have seen the
same thing happen with pt/pd prints, mainly because the clearing baths were
not fresh.

BTW(2): The only prints I "sell" are those donated to charity auctions where
the buyers get too much whiskey and have only themselves to blame.  But I
would like to have some semblance of responsibility...

  --Ken


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@...>
To: "DigitalB&WPrint" <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Permanence - Jerry


> Jerry Olson wrote:
>
> > ...I've had MIS VM ink prints on display in my home since they came
> > out. I see no fading at all under roomlight conditions. ...
>
> Jeff wrote:
>
> >I have used the MIS VM inks and have seen VAST warming ...
>
> The VM base inks are the old MIS quad inks.  They warm rather quickly, but
> then they stabilize and the underlying pigments seem to be OK for a long
> time.  I have some original MIS quad prints on second-rate paper on my
walls
> that look fine -- warmer than new, but when not side-by-side with a cooler
> print, they don't seem too brown.
>
> >... I am almost positive the reason that you [Jerry] see less
> >warming than other users is because you make your prints with
> >the cooler curves and the blue toner ink warms much less
> >over time.
>
> I think that is a significant factor.  The cyan pigment used in the toner
is
> very fade resistant.
>
> >On a side note: I also have some color prints ... printed on
> >Epson semi gloss with Epson 1160 OEM inks. Over the same time
> >period or more.. the prints have not shown ANY fading / color
> >shifts. This comparison really goes against what I would have expected!
>
> They may not appear to warm as much as the quads, and that may be the most
> striking visual change in the prints.  In a neutral print the eye is
> amazingly sensitive to color tints and changes, when compared to a
standard,
> un-changed print.  Bright colors mask small changes.  That is why even the
> best color inksets are so hard to control when trying to make a
neutral/B&W
> print.
>
> On the fading issue, the black dye might fade the fastest.  So, the
initial
> dye burn-out of the older quads could well be faster than the dye fading
of
> the color prints.  However, once the small amount of dyes are burned out,
> the pigmented quads will last much longer.  That is, the changes are not
> linear with the pigmented inksets.  There is an initial rapid change
period
> as the dyes burn off.  Then the prints go into a much slower fade rate.
> With the dye inksets, the relatively rapid fading continues.
>
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com
>
>
>
>
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