--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "frankg_photo <fh.gross@s...>" <fh.gross@s...> wrote: > Barry, > You mention checking/replacing the tubes. > They all feel hard to me. How would you replace them - just prying > them off the cfs cart and sticking replacements on ? Not to speak for Barry on this, but with a CIS, lots of folks try to just replace the carts, which means cleaning out the tubing. But with a CFS, it's so cheap you can just throw the whole assembly away and buy another. But yes, if you wanted to chuck the carts only, cut the tubing off close to the elbows and flush the tubing with warm water, then jam them on the little spigots of a new set of carts. Note I've never done this personally, I've just replaced the whole shebang. > > And how would I put Epson carts back in - just lift up the CFS carts > & plug the bottom ink holes with rivets - that's it ? Yes. I start with the black cart, after I get that up aways I can get a good grip on the color cart. If you plan on keeping the CFS then plug with rivets. It's easy to do, really. Or buy EZ-plugs from a distributor of CIS system. This way you can plug all three ports on color cart at once if you're not handy. But they cost $15 US. And look for the plastic on them to break in short order- some think the ink actually chemically attacks it. Save your receipt. I kept two when I was doing this stuff, and almost constantly was swapping out for a free replacement on one. After you get the ports plugged somehow, wipe it off with a towel and maybe put it in a bag but not sealed. Store the carts above the bottles by a tad. If you are going to toss the CFS carts/tubing then it doesn't matter. Just throw it away. Sometimes I got a bit extra pooling of ink around the nipples after removing carts. I carefully soaked it up with a photowipe or a foam swab from radio shack. Since the nipples are fragile, be carefull. Oh yes and replace the cart lids before installing Epson carts. Easy- need a small bladed screwdriver. > > And Jim, the specs I omitted that you said are relevant to the > problem are - I'm in the frigid cold north (Ontario, Canada) and my > setup is in the basement. It's clean but not hot'n humid. And Lake > Ontario is probably close to sea level. This is probably good (sea level and cold). I always noticed that I printed better below 77 degree f and above 66 degree f. Above 77 it didn't like (1280, with my 1160's I didn't keep track of temperature). I don't know what that is in Celsius... Sounds adequate, but I still wonder what your humidity is. I'm right on the eastern side of the continental divide, and all the moisture gets sucked out of the air here by weather going over the mountains. I humidify the studio now, but it would be 20% RH if I didn't this time of year. That is TOO low. From experience I'd say try to get around 40-45%RH but avoid going below 35%RH if you can. It sounds like you're on the penninsula, and I've been there often, very beautiful country. If so, I'm almost positive your humidity is not too low. When I go there in summer, it feels like a steam bath- everything east of 100 degrees longitude does<g>. My one doubt would be what happens in winter there. > > Mystery is that after clearing the nozzles, by doing 3 quick > consecutive head cleanings and letting it stand for a few hours, the > nozzle check is good and the print/s is fine - but it doesn't last > long before I see a bad print! And then a nozzle check verifies > amessed up pattern with missing bars. But didn't you say you had a messed up tonal scale even with a good nozzle check? If so, then I'd toss the ink, CFS, and start over. If not, then I can make some guesses... Do you see a lot of ink caking up in the k bottle above the ink line? If so it may be in the tubing as well. How old is the bottle/ CFS? Only a few weeks or a year? If a short time, get yourself a hygrometer from Radio Shack. If it goes below 35%RH put a pan of water near the printer or a humidifier ... If a year, maybe it's time to swap it out, preventative maintainance... If there is no k ink to speak of above the ink line in k bottle, then I'd keep the ink and the CFS but pull it temporarily and put Epson carts in. If after a few days of this and the CFS back in it still does it, I would either replace carts/tubing of CFS and keep ink, or try direct injection as a last resort. It's amazing how my clogging seemed to track the weather with both 1280 and 1160s. Check out the humidity first maybe. Jim H. > Frank
Message
Re: 1160 bad nozzle checks recurring
2003-01-24 by jim hayes <jimhayes@frii.com>
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