Digital BW, The Print

Hi Steven,

Thank you very much for the kind words regarding my BO prints. Sorry...haven't been too active on the list, lately; as a matter of fact
I'm about 400 messages behind as I type this reply.

To any list member contemplating BO printing:

Clayton has stated many times, and I fully agree, that BO printing is a way to get started with quadtone printing and learn quite a bit at the same
time. Generally, frustration with the process will be minimal and, in most cases, the results obtained will be very nice indeed. If done correctly,
and the BO process is working well for you, the results can be stunning! Have you seen one of Clayton's prints?

I personally have made a few BO prints that I believe would lose nothing when compared to my standard MIS VM quads. On the other hand, I've
made many more VM quadtones that just look more "full" than a BO version. I think it really comes down to the image in question...some seem to
work better as BO and some work better printed via the full inkset.

Thank you,
Alan Huntley
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Steven Karafyllakis <stevek@...> 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 10:19 PM
  Subject: [Digital BW] Re: Trying Black Only printing


  Hi Charles;
  Don't be discouraged by claims that it isn't good enough- I've seen 
  great prints by Clayton and (I think) a list member named Huntley? 
  he shoots 8x10 and his stuff was georgeous. And for some reason his 
  1160 did a far better job of it than my 1280, as does Claytons 870. 
  I think a lot depends on the individual printer and model, and we 
  never had anything except our Epsons to test this out on.

  Just the same, let me offer a suggestion. Clayton recomends setting 
  the printer profile (under color management in the print dialogue) 
  to 'same as source'. That's fine if the base setting of 'Dot-gain 
  20' or Gray gamma 2.2 works for you. However,the source profile and 
  printer profile in effect cancel each other out if you have to move 
  off-center and you leave it on 'same as source'. You need to keep 
  the printer profile on DG-20 (or move it downwards if you need 
  darker) while you move the source profile upwards. In other words, 
  they have to move in opposite directions to have an effect on your 
  tonal values. 

  Bear in mind that these are just simple curves. A DG-20 means you 
  take a linear curve graph, grab it at the 50% point and move it up 
  to the 70% percent point. If your particular image needs a more 
  complex adjustment, you'll still have to apply that as a curve 
  yourself. All you can do is find a 'center' that gets you close,then 
  you fine-tune as always.

  Best luck,

  Steve Karafyllakis

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