Digital BW, The Print

Paul, Clayton - thanks.

I've tried adjusting the curves near max density, and although it helps, it 
still lacks the snap of the old paper.  I think it has something to do with 
the color, it affects the apparent depth of the image.  I have been using 
Generations black, and have used Epson and MIS dye blacks.  But the new paper 
affects all of them. Heavyweight Mat still give the good blacks, so I may 
return to it, except the color of the inks are noticeably cooler.

Paul, if I switch to the VM sepia inkset, can I cool the color down to the MW 
curve of the standard VM set (which I am using now)?  In other words, do the 
color of the 2 sets overlap?  Would I only need to change the M and PM inks 
in the hextone set?

I'm with Jerry on the mat vs RC paper, but acknowledge that under glass 
things even out.  A while back, I tried the MIS original quads, with Epson 
dye black on Epson photo paper, as well as on premium luster, glossy and 
semigloss.  I like the surface of the photo paper better than the RC papers - 
not so shiny.  Blacks were great with the dye black, but the prints turned 
warm quickly. (They also had an interesting surface, I called it an Epson 
Daguerreotype!  Though this was not noticable under glass.)  I have some 
samples of the pigment Ilford pearl, and will try them when I get a chance.  
One thing I found with the photopaper is that when the print gets wavy under 
the glass due to humidity at outdoor shows, you really see it.  The mat paper 
doesn't show it at all.  Perhaps the RC papers stay flatter than the photo 
paper?

Tom Wells
toliwel@...
towells@...
twellsphoto.com