The thinner William Turner will probabaly work fine, I use it all the time in a 3000. Museo is not banding because it's thinner than the thick William Turner. Paper thickness is the key to accurate paper advance with the 3000. Changing the springs is a pain and will have little to no impact. Tyler --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Olson < jerryolson@r...> wrote: > It's probably the printer that is at fault, it wasn't designed for thick > papers. You need to buy a kit that will replace the springs and roller > feeding mechanism with heavy duty springs. There are a couple places on > the web that sell them, can't remember who at the moment, but someone on > the list will. I had 2 3000 printers, always had banding, and large > prints were never square. > > Jerry > > Walter Martin wrote: > > > > I am using MIS full spectrum inks on Museo paper with > > an epson color stylis 3000. The inks are a continous > > feed system and I have done a series of prints with > > William Turners Hennamule paper. I found the tones to > > be beautifull, sharp, and exactely what I want. > > Except for that damn banding. I can print out test > > targets until I bleed ink and I still can not get rid > > of the banding. So I decided to switch paper to > > Cranes Museo. The prints are nice. I get a strange > > posterization, the prints are not as sharp, and my > > values are off, but the banding is gone. I have tried > > levels and that doesn't seem to solve the problem. > > 1.How do I get rid of the banding on the turner paper? > > 2.If I can't how do I get increased sharpness and > > tonal range out of the Museo paper? I need help. If > > it helps I'm also using the Cone Driver software. > >
Message
Re: [Digital BW] Digest Number 1305
2003-02-13 by Tyler Boley <tyler@tylerboley.com>
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