Digital BW, The Print

I am using MIS full spectrum inks on Museo paper with
an epson color stylis 3000.  The inks are a continous
feed system and I have done a series of prints with
William Turners Hennamule paper.  I found the tones to
be beautifull, sharp, and exactely what I want. 
Except for that damn banding.  I can print out test
targets until I bleed ink and I still can not get rid
of the banding.  So I decided to switch paper to
Cranes Museo.  The prints are nice. I get a strange
posterization, the prints are not as sharp, and my
values are off,  but the banding is gone. I have tried
levels and that doesn't seem to solve the problem. 
1.How do I get rid of the banding on the turner paper?
2.If I can't how do I get increased sharpness and
tonal range out of the Museo paper?  I need help. If
it helps I'm also using the Cone Driver software.

It's probably the printer that is at fault, it wasn't designed for thick
papers.  You need to buy a kit that will replace the springs and roller
feeding mechanism with heavy duty springs. There are a couple places on
the web that sell them, can't remember who at the moment, but someone on
the list will.  I had 2 3000 printers, always had banding, and large
prints were never square.

Jerry

Walter Martin wrote:

> 
>  I am using MIS full spectrum inks on Museo paper with
> an epson color stylis 3000.  The inks are a continous
> feed system and I have done a series of prints with
> William Turners Hennamule paper.  I found the tones to
> be beautifull, sharp, and exactely what I want.
> Except for that damn banding.  I can print out test
> targets until I bleed ink and I still can not get rid
> of the banding.  So I decided to switch paper to
> Cranes Museo.  The prints are nice. I get a strange
> posterization, the prints are not as sharp, and my
> values are off,  but the banding is gone. I have tried
> levels and that doesn't seem to solve the problem.
> 1.How do I get rid of the banding on the turner paper?
> 2.If I can't how do I get increased sharpness and
> tonal range out of the Museo paper?  I need help. If
> it helps I'm also using the Cone Driver software.
>

That would explain the banding except that I don't have any banding with the 
museo paper.  Can you please post information on the springs, or email me at 
waltersmartin@....  Does anybody have experience with this set 
up and Museo paper?

The thinner William Turner will probabaly work fine, I use it all the 
time in a 3000. Museo is not banding because it's thinner than the 
thick William Turner.
Paper thickness is the key to accurate paper advance with the 3000.
Changing the springs is a pain and will have little to no impact.
Tyler

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Olson <
jerryolson@r...> wrote:

> It's probably the printer that is at fault, it wasn't designed for thick
> papers.  You need to buy a kit that will replace the springs and roller
> feeding mechanism with heavy duty springs. There are a couple places on
> the web that sell them, can't remember who at the moment, but someone on
> the list will.  I had 2 3000 printers, always had banding, and large
> prints were never square.
> 
> Jerry
> 
> Walter Martin wrote:
> > 
> >  I am using MIS full spectrum inks on Museo paper with
> > an epson color stylis 3000.  The inks are a continous
> > feed system and I have done a series of prints with
> > William Turners Hennamule paper.  I found the tones to
> > be beautifull, sharp, and exactely what I want.
> > Except for that damn banding.  I can print out test
> > targets until I bleed ink and I still can not get rid
> > of the banding.  So I decided to switch paper to
> > Cranes Museo.  The prints are nice. I get a strange
> > posterization, the prints are not as sharp, and my
> > values are off,  but the banding is gone. I have tried
> > levels and that doesn't seem to solve the problem.
> > 1.How do I get rid of the banding on the turner paper?
> > 2.If I can't how do I get increased sharpness and
> > tonal range out of the Museo paper?  I need help. If
> > it helps I'm also using the Cone Driver software.
> >

In a message dated 2/12/2003 10:21:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
tyler@... writes:

> I need help. If
> >>it helps I'm also using the Cone Driver software.
> 
Just cruised into this! Are you using the latest Piezo plugin for the 3000 
that solved most banding problems? This came out about a year after the 
original plugin was released. I clue would be that your 16x20's take an hour 
and 15minutes. The original version was twice as fast. Sorry if you guys 
covered this already.
Steve M.


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