Digital BW, The Print

Hi,

I do something that I think may be similar to below.  I make a selection of the 
general area I am interested in burning or dodging.  Then I make a curves 
adjustment layer of the selection and lighten or darken to get the main effect 
I want.  Then I reload the selection, go into QuickMask, and paint around the 
edges in combinations of black and white with variable opacity and size 
brushes until I get the seamless blend I am looking for.  Or apply a gradient 
to the QuickMask. Then resave the changed selection to replace the previous 
one.  Nice thing about doing it this way with an Adj Layer is, of course, that 
you can go back and change it anytime you want, which you can't do with the 
burn and dodge tools, once you have closed and reopened the file.  It also 
gives very accurate and controlable lightening and darkening without hue 
shift.  I do this a lot.  I also use the dodge and burn tools a lot for really small 
areas.  I will need to try the refinements? below.

Tom Andrews
http://www.wildlandart.com


> To control burning and dodging in Photoshop, Jim suggested:
> >
> >I have not noticed a hue change in burning but I have some suggestions:
> >	1.  Try making a new layer; change the mode to soft light and
> >paint (at some reduced opacity) with black to burn or white to dodge.
> >I get much more control that way.
> >
> >	2.  Work in grayscale and when you want to colorize change mode to 
RGB.
> >
> >	3.  Desaturate after burning.
> >
> 
> Try this also and see which you prefer.
> 
> 1) select the layer.
> 2) Create a new layer. Select "Group with Previous Layer" checkbox. Set
> mode to OVERLAY and check the box that fills the layer with 50% grey.
> 3) Press D to reset colors to black and white. Now just paint with a
> paintbrush! It's simple. White dodges and black burns -- use the X key to
> switchback and forth. Use around 20% for faster work, 10% or lower for 
more
> delicate work.
> 
> Just do your dodging and burning on the new layer. As in Jim's method, it
> remains completely workable. I was reminded of this method at the Epson
> Print Seminar, so thanks to Vincent Versace. He used the eraser tool, but
> my head feels straighter using the brush for some no doubt neurological
> reason. Click the airbrush and see if you like the feel any better. Big
> difference for me is that dodging seems to show up a lot faster in Soft
> Light, while burning takes a bit more time, but both work fine.
> 
> Another cool method is to dupe the layer, change levels to darken it
> considerably, and then use layer masks to let the lighter one show through.
> Again, since a layer mask is being used, the effect remains workable and is
> quite nice. You can also use any method to shift the color cast on the
> duplicated layer. So, for instance, if want your shadow areas warmer for
> some reason, just shift the darker image toward the warms a wee bit, or 
use
> a hue/sat adjustment layer to warm it up, paint in the layer mask, and let
> your cooler highlights show through.
> 
> Bobbo
> 
> Artwork and Nature Photopaintings -- http://www.bobbogoldberg.com
> Voice over demos and services -- http://www.bob-vo.com