Digital BW, The Print

Has anyone noticed that when you burn a B&W image in an RGB format 
that the burned area takes on a yellowish hue? This of course doesn't 
occur in greyscale mode, but my scans are usually in RGB mode, and I 
usually work in RBG to maintain the option of colorizing portions of 
the print at some point.

<Has anyone noticed that when you burn a B&W image in an RGB format
that the burned area takes on a yellowish hue? This of course doesn't
occur in greyscale mode, but my scans are usually in RGB mode, and I
usually work in RBG to maintain the option of colorizing portions of
the print at some point.>

I have not noticed a hue change in burning but I have some suggestions:
	1.  Try making a new layer; change the mode to soft light and 
paint (at some reduced opacity) with black to burn or white to dodge. 
I get much more control that way.

	2.  Work in grayscale and when you want to colorize change mode to RGB.

	3.  Desaturate after burning.

Cheers,		Jim

-- 
James G. Respess
Green Flash Photography
858-272-1926   
See my art at:  http://www.greenflashphotography.com
Gallery at:  http://offtrackgallery.com/gallery/respess.htm

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you are using the burn tool, try going to the History Brush instead.
Better control also.

Seth


=Subject: [Digital BW] burning in photoshop
=
=
=Has anyone noticed that when you burn a B&W image in an RGB format 
=that the burned area takes on a yellowish hue? This of course doesn't 
=occur in greyscale mode, but my scans are usually in RGB mode, and I 
=usually work in RBG to maintain the option of colorizing portions of 
=the print at some point.
=

Another alternative to burning: select an area, go to quick-mask mode, do
a gaussian blur of the mask, switch back into normal mode, then do a
Levels adjustment layer. If you need the effect to fade from one side to
the other, or from the middle out, you can apply the gradient tool over
the adjustment layer. The common photographer's trick of slightly burning
in the corners of an image is easily done this way; use the oval
selection tool, select the entire image except for the corners, invert
the selection, then continue with the quick-mask as above. The cool thing
about this is that once you've got the mask created and appropriately
blurred, you can then drag the levels slider back and forth while
watching the strength of the effect. Other selection methods are good for
this, too, e.g. color range.

>If you are using the burn tool, try going to the History Brush instead.
>Better control also.
>
>Seth
>
>
>=Subject: [Digital BW] burning in photoshop
>=
>=
>=Has anyone noticed that when you burn a B&W image in an RGB format 
>=that the burned area takes on a yellowish hue? This of course doesn't 
>=occur in greyscale mode, but my scans are usually in RGB mode, and I 
>=usually work in RBG to maintain the option of colorizing portions of 
>=the print at some point.
>=
>
>
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Harry Saddler | hsaddler@...

On Friday, February 14, 2003, at 08:40  PM, Harry Saddler wrote:

> Another alternative to burning: select an area, go to quick-mask mode, 
> do
> a gaussian blur of the mask, switch back into normal mode, then do a
> Levels adjustment layer. If you need the effect to fade from one side 
> to
> the other, or from the middle out, you can apply the gradient tool over
> the adjustment layer.

good tips... another way to do that is to make the levels adjusment 
layer first, make your selection, hit the mask icon while the levels 
adj layer is highlighted and then blur the mask, just the way I prefer, 
rather than going in and out of quickmask.

Try putting the levels adj layer with it's mask into a curve set, then 
apply  another mask to the set, double masking... life doesn't get any 
better... until the filter adjustment layers hit us in PS8.

>  The common photographer's trick of slightly burning
> in the corners of an image is easily done this way; use the oval
> selection tool, select the entire image except for the corners, invert
> the selection, then continue with the quick-mask as above. The cool 
> thing
> about this is that once you've got the mask created and appropriately
> blurred, you can then drag the levels slider back and forth while
> watching the strength of the effect. Other selection methods are good 
> for
> this, too, e.g. color range.

another is make a levels or curve layer, don't make any moves in it, 
it's acting like a dup image layer without adding file size, put a 
multiply blend mode on it, mask the layer and paint white and black to 
effect the areas required.  You can also of course make moves within 
the adjustment layer to further emphasize what you're doing.

Try the screen blend mode for dodging.

dodge burn tools in PS, in my opinion, are too destructive to most 
images.  but the various ways to accomplish it without using them are 
very cool.
Carolyn

To control burning and dodging in Photoshop, Jim suggested:
>
>I have not noticed a hue change in burning but I have some suggestions:
>	1.  Try making a new layer; change the mode to soft light and
>paint (at some reduced opacity) with black to burn or white to dodge.
>I get much more control that way.
>
>	2.  Work in grayscale and when you want to colorize change mode to RGB.
>
>	3.  Desaturate after burning.
>

Try this also and see which you prefer.

1) select the layer.
2) Create a new layer. Select "Group with Previous Layer" checkbox. Set
mode to OVERLAY and check the box that fills the layer with 50% grey.
3) Press D to reset colors to black and white. Now just paint with a
paintbrush! It's simple. White dodges and black burns -- use the X key to
switchback and forth. Use around 20% for faster work, 10% or lower for more
delicate work.

Just do your dodging and burning on the new layer. As in Jim's method, it
remains completely workable. I was reminded of this method at the Epson
Print Seminar, so thanks to Vincent Versace. He used the eraser tool, but
my head feels straighter using the brush for some no doubt neurological
reason. Click the airbrush and see if you like the feel any better. Big
difference for me is that dodging seems to show up a lot faster in Soft
Light, while burning takes a bit more time, but both work fine.

Another cool method is to dupe the layer, change levels to darken it
considerably, and then use layer masks to let the lighter one show through.
Again, since a layer mask is being used, the effect remains workable and is
quite nice. You can also use any method to shift the color cast on the
duplicated layer. So, for instance, if want your shadow areas warmer for
some reason, just shift the darker image toward the warms a wee bit, or use
a hue/sat adjustment layer to warm it up, paint in the layer mask, and let
your cooler highlights show through.

Bobbo

Artwork and Nature Photopaintings -- http://www.bobbogoldberg.com
Voice over demos and services -- http://www.bob-vo.com

Thanks, folks, for all the really good tips.

Regards,
Clayton


Info on black and white digital printing at    
http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm

One more thing:  when you add the soft-light layer make sure it is 
medium gray.  You can vary the opacity and size of the brush and get 
great control over the process.

Steve

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Jim Respess 
<jim@g...> wrote:
> <Has anyone noticed that when you burn a B&W image in an RGB format
> that the burned area takes on a yellowish hue? This of course 
doesn't
> occur in greyscale mode, but my scans are usually in RGB mode, and I
> usually work in RBG to maintain the option of colorizing portions of
> the print at some point.>
> 
> I have not noticed a hue change in burning but I have some 
suggestions:
> 	1.  Try making a new layer; change the mode to soft light and 
> paint (at some reduced opacity) with black to burn or white to 
dodge. 
> I get much more control that way.
> 
> 	2.  Work in grayscale and when you want to colorize change 
mode to RGB.

> 
> 	3.  Desaturate after burning.
> 
> Cheers,		Jim
> 
> -- 
> James G. Respess
> Green Flash Photography
> 858-272-1926   
> See my art at:  http://www.greenflashphotography.com
> Gallery at:  http://offtrackgallery.com/gallery/respess.htm
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

I do something that I think may be similar to below.  I make a selection of the 
general area I am interested in burning or dodging.  Then I make a curves 
adjustment layer of the selection and lighten or darken to get the main effect 
I want.  Then I reload the selection, go into QuickMask, and paint around the 
edges in combinations of black and white with variable opacity and size 
brushes until I get the seamless blend I am looking for.  Or apply a gradient 
to the QuickMask. Then resave the changed selection to replace the previous 
one.  Nice thing about doing it this way with an Adj Layer is, of course, that 
you can go back and change it anytime you want, which you can't do with the 
burn and dodge tools, once you have closed and reopened the file.  It also 
gives very accurate and controlable lightening and darkening without hue 
shift.  I do this a lot.  I also use the dodge and burn tools a lot for really small 
areas.  I will need to try the refinements? below.

Tom Andrews
http://www.wildlandart.com


> To control burning and dodging in Photoshop, Jim suggested:
> >
> >I have not noticed a hue change in burning but I have some suggestions:
> >	1.  Try making a new layer; change the mode to soft light and
> >paint (at some reduced opacity) with black to burn or white to dodge.
> >I get much more control that way.
> >
> >	2.  Work in grayscale and when you want to colorize change mode to 
RGB.
> >
> >	3.  Desaturate after burning.
> >
> 
> Try this also and see which you prefer.
> 
> 1) select the layer.
> 2) Create a new layer. Select "Group with Previous Layer" checkbox. Set
> mode to OVERLAY and check the box that fills the layer with 50% grey.
> 3) Press D to reset colors to black and white. Now just paint with a
> paintbrush! It's simple. White dodges and black burns -- use the X key to
> switchback and forth. Use around 20% for faster work, 10% or lower for 
more
> delicate work.
> 
> Just do your dodging and burning on the new layer. As in Jim's method, it
> remains completely workable. I was reminded of this method at the Epson
> Print Seminar, so thanks to Vincent Versace. He used the eraser tool, but
> my head feels straighter using the brush for some no doubt neurological
> reason. Click the airbrush and see if you like the feel any better. Big
> difference for me is that dodging seems to show up a lot faster in Soft
> Light, while burning takes a bit more time, but both work fine.
> 
> Another cool method is to dupe the layer, change levels to darken it
> considerably, and then use layer masks to let the lighter one show through.
> Again, since a layer mask is being used, the effect remains workable and is
> quite nice. You can also use any method to shift the color cast on the
> duplicated layer. So, for instance, if want your shadow areas warmer for
> some reason, just shift the darker image toward the warms a wee bit, or 
use

> a hue/sat adjustment layer to warm it up, paint in the layer mask, and let
> your cooler highlights show through.
> 
> Bobbo
> 
> Artwork and Nature Photopaintings -- http://www.bobbogoldberg.com
> Voice over demos and services -- http://www.bob-vo.com