Digital BW, The Print

Marc --

Don't know how useful this will be since I'm using the Polaroid SprintScan 
120 for my 2-1/4 B&Ws, but here goes:

1. What are the optimum settinngs on the Nikon8000 for BW negs; i.e.
>positive vs negative, grayscale vs RGB, color management ON/OFF,
>gamma?

I scan Tri-X as a negative in 16-bit grayscale. Color management in the 
scanner isn't particularly useful. When I bring it into Photoshop, I have 
color preferences set to assign Gray Gamma 2.2 as the working space.

>2. Should I do any tonal correction using the Nikon software or leave
>it all to photoshop?

It doesn't hurt to apply essential corrections in the scanner software. I'm 
using SilverFast 6 which offers a very complete set of optimizing tools. 
You should at least adjust black and white points so your image fills up 
the histogram and doesn't clip extremes. You can apply overall corrections 
to the 16-bit file in Photoshop using the Curves tool and then convert to 
8-bits for exacting local corrections using adjustment layers and layer masks.

>3. When opening scanned BW images in photoshop7 what profile should I
>assign them?

Gray Gamma 2.2 works for me.

>4. For BW, what should I enter in the photoshop7 'Color Settings'
>dialogue box? At this point on my 'learning curve' I am using Epson
>Archival Matte paper and Ultrachrome inks. Should I set a custom dot
>gain (if so, where can I obtain values for this paper/ink
>combination) or dot gain percentage (if so, what value)?

I'm using Epson Enhanced Matte (similar to Archival Matte) and MIS inks. I 
have dot gain set at Photoshop's 20% default which seems to work fine.

When I decided to buy the SprintScan instead of the Nikon there were many 
issues to weigh in the balance. Among the deciding factors is my belief 
that the Polaroid is more suitable for scanning black-and-white film. The 
Nikon uses a collimated light source that's sure to exaggerate dust and 
scratches. Nikon includes the very useful Digital Ice utility that works 
wonders in reducing the appearance of dust and scratches on color-coupled 
films (like all color negative films and most transparency films), however 
Digital Ice doesn't work with black-and-white films or with Kodachrome. The 
SprintScan uses a diffuse light source which, in itself, reduces the 
appearance of dust and scratches -- no Digital Ice but for black-and-white 
films it doesn't matter. With either scanner you still must spot the scan 
using Photoshop's rubber stamp and healing tools at a 100% view, but I 
believe that the Polaroid's diffuse light source reduces the effort.

The SilverFast software that came with my scanner is provided with a 
"Negafix" feature that provides tonal correction curves for numerous films 
including most of the usual black-and-whites. Others on this list have 
commented that black-and-white scans are problematic with the Nikon 8000, 
however I've seen Paul Roark's elegant prints, made from Nikon 8000 scans, 
so I know great results are possible.

Good luck.

-- Victor Landweber