Digital BW, The Print

After many years of darkroom BW work I am currently in the process of 
switching to digital and having quite a struggle with it. I've 
purchased a Nikon8000 scanner (I work primarily with medium format BW 
negs) and Epson 2200. I hope someone will help me out by answering a 
few 'novice' questions:
1. What are the optimum settinngs on the Nikon8000 for BW negs; i.e. 
positive vs negative, grayscale vs RGB, color management ON/OFF, 
gamma?
2. Should I do any tonal correction using the Nikon software or leave 
it all to photoshop?
3. When opening scanned BW images in photoshop7 what profile should I 
assign them?
4. For BW, what should I enter in the photoshop7 'Color Settings' 
dialogue box? At this point on my 'learning curve' I am using Epson 
Archival Matte paper and Ultrachrome inks. Should I set a custom dot 
gain (if so, where can I obtain values for this paper/ink 
combination) or dot gain percentage (if so, what value)?

I would greatly appreciate some help/advice.
MARC.

Marc --

Don't know how useful this will be since I'm using the Polaroid SprintScan 
120 for my 2-1/4 B&Ws, but here goes:

1. What are the optimum settinngs on the Nikon8000 for BW negs; i.e.
>positive vs negative, grayscale vs RGB, color management ON/OFF,
>gamma?

I scan Tri-X as a negative in 16-bit grayscale. Color management in the 
scanner isn't particularly useful. When I bring it into Photoshop, I have 
color preferences set to assign Gray Gamma 2.2 as the working space.

>2. Should I do any tonal correction using the Nikon software or leave
>it all to photoshop?

It doesn't hurt to apply essential corrections in the scanner software. I'm 
using SilverFast 6 which offers a very complete set of optimizing tools. 
You should at least adjust black and white points so your image fills up 
the histogram and doesn't clip extremes. You can apply overall corrections 
to the 16-bit file in Photoshop using the Curves tool and then convert to 
8-bits for exacting local corrections using adjustment layers and layer masks.

>3. When opening scanned BW images in photoshop7 what profile should I
>assign them?

Gray Gamma 2.2 works for me.

>4. For BW, what should I enter in the photoshop7 'Color Settings'
>dialogue box? At this point on my 'learning curve' I am using Epson
>Archival Matte paper and Ultrachrome inks. Should I set a custom dot
>gain (if so, where can I obtain values for this paper/ink
>combination) or dot gain percentage (if so, what value)?

I'm using Epson Enhanced Matte (similar to Archival Matte) and MIS inks. I 
have dot gain set at Photoshop's 20% default which seems to work fine.

When I decided to buy the SprintScan instead of the Nikon there were many 
issues to weigh in the balance. Among the deciding factors is my belief 
that the Polaroid is more suitable for scanning black-and-white film. The 
Nikon uses a collimated light source that's sure to exaggerate dust and 
scratches. Nikon includes the very useful Digital Ice utility that works 
wonders in reducing the appearance of dust and scratches on color-coupled 
films (like all color negative films and most transparency films), however 
Digital Ice doesn't work with black-and-white films or with Kodachrome. The 
SprintScan uses a diffuse light source which, in itself, reduces the 
appearance of dust and scratches -- no Digital Ice but for black-and-white 
films it doesn't matter. With either scanner you still must spot the scan 
using Photoshop's rubber stamp and healing tools at a 100% view, but I 
believe that the Polaroid's diffuse light source reduces the effort.

The SilverFast software that came with my scanner is provided with a 
"Negafix" feature that provides tonal correction curves for numerous films 
including most of the usual black-and-whites. Others on this list have 
commented that black-and-white scans are problematic with the Nikon 8000, 
however I've seen Paul Roark's elegant prints, made from Nikon 8000 scans, 
so I know great results are possible.

Good luck.

-- Victor Landweber

> 4. For BW, what should I enter in the photoshop7 'Color Settings' 
> dialogue box? At this point on my 'learning curve' I am using Epson 
> Archival Matte paper and Ultrachrome inks. Should I set a custom dot 
> gain (if so, where can I obtain values for this paper/ink 
> combination) or dot gain percentage (if so, what value)?

I would suggest using Gamma 2.2 and also taking the few minutes necessary to start 
using Roy Harrington's Quadtone RIP (he has just posted a new version) and 
Carl's curves for the 2200 (included in the download from Roy's site).  I am not too far 
in front of you in the learning curve but can honestly say that spending the 30 
minutes necessary to get going with Quadtone is well worth it.  I just reprinted an 
image with Quadtone and compared it to the first time I printed it with the Epson 
driver....the original print is now firmly squished in the trash!

Hope this helps

Steve



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "marcsien77" 
<marcsien77@y...> wrote:

> After many years of darkroom BW work I am currently in the process of 
> switching to digital and having quite a struggle with it. I've 
> purchased a Nikon8000 scanner (I work primarily with medium format BW 
> negs) and Epson 2200. I hope someone will help me out by answering a 
> few 'novice' questions:
> 1. What are the optimum settinngs on the Nikon8000 for BW negs; i.e. 
> positive vs negative, grayscale vs RGB, color management ON/OFF, 
> gamma?
> 2. Should I do any tonal correction using the Nikon software or leave 
> it all to photoshop?
> 3. When opening scanned BW images in photoshop7 what profile should I 
> assign them?
> 4. For BW, what should I enter in the photoshop7 'Color Settings' 
> dialogue box? At this point on my 'learning curve' I am using Epson 
> Archival Matte paper and Ultrachrome inks. Should I set a custom dot 
> gain (if so, where can I obtain values for this paper/ink 
> combination) or dot gain percentage (if so, what value)?
> 
> I would greatly appreciate some help/advice.
> MARC.

on 8/2/2003 6:54 PM, DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com at
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com wrote:

> Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 17:38:33 -0000
> From: "marcsien77" <marcsien77@...>
> Subject: Nikon 8000 & photoshop BW settings
> 
:
> 1. What are the optimum settinngs on the Nikon8000 for BW negs; i.e.
> positive vs negative, grayscale vs RGB, color management ON/OFF,
> gamma?

Here's what I do:

Scan as positive at 14bit, reverse in photoshop.
Color management off.
Grayscale
check "fine mode" do eliminate banding

> 2. Should I do any tonal correction using the Nikon software or leave
> it all to photoshop?

I do it all in photoshop. Do major corrections in 16 bit mode, then convert
to 8 bit mode to use all the photoshop tools.

> 3. When opening scanned BW images in photoshop7 what profile should I
> assign them?

It really doesn't matter much, either gamma 2.2 or gamma 1.8 grayscale. You
may notice that the curves adjustment works a little differently for each
gamma working space/profile.

change mode to 8 bit before printing and/or doing adjustment layer and
masking work.

 
-Bruce

Visit my website at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~smthopr

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Bruce 
<smthopr@e...> wrote:
> on 8/2/2003 6:54 PM, DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com at
> DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> 
> > Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 17:38:33 -0000
> > From: "marcsien77" <marcsien77@y...>
> > Subject: Nikon 8000 & photoshop BW settings
> > 
> :
> > 1. What are the optimum settinngs on the Nikon8000 for BW negs; 
i.e.
> > positive vs negative, grayscale vs RGB, color management ON/OFF,
> > gamma?
> 
> Here's what I do:
> 
> Scan as positive at 14bit, reverse in photoshop.
> Color management off.
> Grayscale
> check "fine mode" do eliminate banding
> 
> > 2. Should I do any tonal correction using the Nikon software or 
leave
> > it all to photoshop?
> 
> I do it all in photoshop. Do major corrections in 16 bit mode, then 
convert
> to 8 bit mode to use all the photoshop tools.
> 
> > 3. When opening scanned BW images in photoshop7 what profile 
should I
> > assign them?
> 
> It really doesn't matter much, either gamma 2.2 or gamma 1.8 
grayscale. You
> may notice that the curves adjustment works a little differently 
for each
> gamma working space/profile.
> 
> change mode to 8 bit before printing and/or doing adjustment layer 
and
> masking work.
> 
>  
> -Bruce
> 
> Visit my website at:
> http://home.earthlink.net/~smthopr

Hello, I am a Nikon 8000 user as well. I have been using Vuescan
www.hamrick.com ever since I realized that Nikon Scan software clips
the highlights and shadows rather badly. There are ways to compensate,
but Ive found it much easier to use vuescan. It's interface is a 
little clunky. The "professional" version has quite a myriad of 
selections which need to be thoroughly understood. Not really 
difficult, just many of them.
It will produce scans that capture as much data as possible, without
any blocked shadows or highs. The scans will look somewhat flat, but 
if you output 16 bit, you can make specific curves/color corrections 
in PS.
Vuescan is slow, it uses only one of the CCD's, equiv. to Nikon 
Scan "fine scan mode".
The previews are faster though.
It is not expensive, I think the pro version is less that $100.
But, dont look to this app for extensive color and curve control. It 
is difficult with vuescan. This product simply enable me to capture 
all the data if possible and later adjust if need be. Though, better 
shooting = less scan adjustments.
Frank

Frank,

I use vuescan as well. I just didn't want to confuse someone new 
to the scanner. But you've made good suggestions!

-bruce

> > > Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 17:38:33 -0000
> > > From: "marcsien77" <marcsien77@y...>
> > > Subject: Nikon 8000 & photoshop BW settings
> > > 
> > :
> > > 1. What are the optimum settinngs on the Nikon8000 for 
BW negs; 
> i.e.

> > change mode to 8 bit before printing and/or doing 
adjustment layer 
> and
> > masking work.
> > 
> >  
> > -Bruce
> > 
> > Visit my website at:
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~smthopr
> 
> Hello, I am a Nikon 8000 user as well. I have been using 
Vuescan
> www.hamrick.com ever since I realized that Nikon Scan 
software clips
> the highlights and shadows rather badly. There are ways to 
compensate,

> but Ive found it much easier to use vuescan. It's interface is a 
> little clunky. The "professional" version has quite a myriad of 
> selections which need to be thoroughly understood. Not really 
> difficult, just many of them.