>... used 7500 ... I wonder >if that is a good way for a newbie to go?... It may be a bit of overkill for a newbie. It's a lot easier to use smaller printers if the output is sufficient for you. >... the curves are what I will need to focus on. ... > Do you know of any internet resource/ tutorial on >producing or manipulating curves? The Files section of this forum has some information. I just read a tutorial that Dirk Hobman has put together. It combines the information out there in about the best and most readable form I've seen. I hope he's able to post it soon. Paul http://www.PaulRoark.com ____________________________________ --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> wrote: > Alfred, > > >... > >I've been told that MIS offers quality for a low price. > > > - Is there any difference on using the 1280 over the 1160? ... > > I used the 1160 for quite a while, and it has a great reputation. However, > comparing the 1160 prints to the 1280 Ultra Tone prints, I think the 1280 > has a quality advantage. The light toner gives the highlights a little > smoothness advantage. Also, the shadow tone ramp is a bit smoother. As a > practical matter, since I and others use the 1280 more at this point, it'll > be better supported. > > I've had no clogging problems with either one of them. > > > ... I like the selenuim, ... > > As an old silver printer who toned with selenium, that is the specific tone > the UT inks are mixed to replicate with the "neutral/selenium" curves. The > main difference between the silver print tones and the ink tones is that the > black ink is warm. As such, we can't get the cold deep black tones that > some selenium-toned silver prints have. And, of course, different silver > papers and toning procedures produced different tones. In general, however, > the "selenium" tone -- of my silver prints, PiezoTone Selenium, and UT with > the neutral curve -- is characterized by midtone spectrophotometer readings > where the cyan and yellow channels are equal, the magenta channel reads 0.01 > units higher. > > >I wonder if Piezo not being variable > >tone that the prints will be more consistent over time. > > I don't think so. If you're talking about fading, both the variable-tone > and monotone approaches have to use color pigments to tone the warm carbon > inks. Whether it's in separate dots or mixed into the gray ink probably > makes no difference. In my fade testing the PiezoTone selenium is not more > stable. > > In my view, the flexibility of the variable-tone system allows one more > control over the tones among the various paper types. > > > On the Piezo forum people use a lot Hahnemuhle and photorag,... > > Hahnemuhle PhotoRag has been one of the most popular "rag"/cotton- based > papers, which are recommended for archival storage. There are other cotton > papers that "flake" less (PremierArt Fine Art Hot Press, also sold as Epson > Scrapbook paper, once called "UltraSmooth" in beta) and papers that are less > expensive (Moab Entrada). The Ultra Tones will print fine on all these, > with there being specific profiles for the latter two. > > One advantage of the open Photoshop curves approach is that you can > fine-tune the curves to fit your precise printer and other variables. > > >... If I buy the 1160 or 1280 with ultratones, will I > >get consistent prints? > > I think they are as consistent as any other inkset that we have available to > us. Unfortunately, I've measured differences in all of the ones where I've > collected samples from different sources. I'm not impressed with the ink > industry's quality control, and this applies to all of them that I have > experience with. Usually, however, they are close enough that the prints > are fine. In a darkroom setting, one has inconsistencies also. > > > If 5 years from now I decide to print the image again > >(new PS, inks, printer, etc...), can I get the same result? > > Who knows? So far, new Photoshop versions have been able to use the same > curves. I matched my curves to the average PiezoBW densities, because that > is what I was printing before switching systems, and I wanted my files to be > compatible. I've noticed that most of the test strips I've measured that > were printed with the common RIPs use a close enough midtone target that the > files should be useable with only minor adjustments on almost any of them. > > > If I need a print larger than 13" wide, do you know of any > >commercial service to ship this to that uses the same MIS-UT inks? > > I suspect any number of us on this list would be willing to print for a fee. > > > Longevity is important to me - is UT the best option? > > I consider both the Ultra Tone and PiezoTone inksets to be > state-of-the-art -- and that is very good indeed. In my initial testing, > they do better than the Epson Archival color inkset, which has been rated by > some at 200+ years of display. (I have not tested all of the inksets out > there.) > > I hope this is helpful. Obviously I may have some biases, but the UT inkset > is the one I'm using. > > Paul > http://www.PaulRoark.com Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - Include your full name with your message. - Include the address of your website, if you have one. - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames - Complete your Yahoo profile. - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. Your use of Yahoo! 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RE: [Digital BW] Re: MIS - B&W Printing - right system? Help
2003-10-29 by Paul Roark
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