I've never fully grasped the dot gain method. I think I understand what y= ou are doing, but I don't see how it differs from creating "print" adjustment laye= rs. I see how it does... but fundamentally its the same thing... I think. The way I work now, I get my image the way I want it in PS (on a properly c= alibrated monitor). Then I make a test strip print with that file (using ImagePrint = + an IP profile). My file is gamma 2.2. I then compare the print to the screen. = I then make adjustment layers which will make the print look like the screen. I usuall= y have to add contrast and lighten it up. After some fine tuning to the layers, I am= ready for my final print. I then just print the layered file. Now, with the dot gain method, you create a custom dot gain curve for the w= ay photoshop displays the image. So, if we were taking my example, I would ne= ed to make a dot gain curve that makes the on-screen display a little flatter and= a little darker (because I would need to make the screen look like a straight print)= . Now that you have the custom dot gain, you edit in photoshop to get the ima= ge how you want it and then print. Am I correct on this so far? So, from what I can see, this is two ways to do the exact same thing. With= the dot gain method, (using my typical scenario) I am adding contrast and brightnes= s to the image while getting it to look the way i want. But as far as I'm concerned= , I'm just working as normal because the dot gain curve makes the image appear flatte= r and darker than it really is. Then all I need to do is make a straight print = and it will match. With the print adjustment layer method, I am adding the extra contr= ast and brightness after I've got the image to look as I want it on-screen. Either= way, the image is going to have extra contrast and brightness for the print. Assuming an image will look close from one calibrated monitor to another...= now, isn't the image you photoshopped using a dot gain curve overly contrasty an= d overly bright? So, if I want to use that image for a web page or on-screen use, I= have to now take away contrast and brightness? To me, that would seem more of a hassle= . Or, am I not getting this whole dot gain thing?!?!? Jeff > As for the dot gain issue, are you saying that you change the working space gray profile in PS depending on the >image? I actually did try Dot gain working space profiles at one time, but, I am happier with the Gray Gamma 2.2 >working space profile. It is just matching up very well with al= l of the papers I use. My monitor didn't just 'magicly' >profile itself. In Color Settings, Gray working space I now have a custom dot gain curve specifically for PhotoRag. The dot gain curves are actually paper specific and not image specific. Once you've gone through the process of setting up = a custom dot gain it's used for all images printed on a particular paper. I save the image untagged. Once it's dropped onto the IP layout window it's using IP's color management which I have set to Gray Gamma 2.2. The resulting print will not match the view in IP, but matches the PS view exactly. If GG 2.2 is working for you, great. But, apparently some of us have to go the dot gain or adjustment layer route. I felt more comfortable with a custom dot gain having used the same technique during my Piezo days.= I like the fact that I don't have to think about "tweaking" the image in order to match some memory of how my prints actually print, or having to remember to turn on/off an adjustment layer and delete it before flattening= . Using a custom dot gain allows me to do my editing in PS as I would for any= image with the knowledge that what I see on the screen is what will be on the paper. BTW, I use a ColorVision Spyder and software to calibrate my monitor. I've never used Adobe Gamma or any other visual technique to calibrate...my eyes= ain't that good anymore! Alan Huntley
Message
Dot gain in Photoshop (was 1280 vs. 2200 question)
2003-11-01 by jsinger986
Attachments
- No local attachments were found for this message.