Digital BW, The Print

I also have an 1160, and you may find very satisfactory results not 
using those curves, but instead creating a transfer function curve 
(search here will yield the details). It makes all the difference. 
The trick is an 11 step wedge to determine your tonal values.

I believe Paul's work is wonderful, but each specific printer seems 
to be different in how it reacts, so there is no flat answer.

I'm getting terrific results using this method.
Best,
Mark R.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "sceptre12345" 
<am1000@v...> wrote:
> I've been using Paul's curves in a 1160 and getting pretty good 
> results, as good as if not better than what I was getting with the 
> PiezgraphyBW software. In fact I no longer see any banding with 
the  
> heavier weight paper.
> 
> Did you by any chance convert your grayscale image to RGB prior to 
> printing ?
> 
> And lastly, you might want to tone down your remarks a wee bit!
> 
> Cheers,
> Andre
> 
> 
> --- In 
> DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "dizzyashell2003" 
> <dizzyashell@d...> wrote:
> > I have downloaded the profiles that Paul has on the MIS website 
for 
> an Epson Photo 
> > Stylus 1200. I'm using the variable Quadtone ink sets and have 
> everything set up as 
> > suggested by Paul's workflow. I have had nothing but horrid 
> results. After the first 
> > print hit the garbage can I loaded the curves back in and went 
into 
> the individual 
> > channels and looked at the way he has them bent. After looking at 
> the individual 
> > colors and how they are bent, I thought I had found the problem. 
I 
> was having a 
> > minor bit of solarization going on in mid-tones. So I took the 
pins 
> out of the Blue 
> > curve which were bent in a ridiculous manner which was causing 
the 
> solarization. You 
> > can't bend curves up and down in a sign wave type of manner and 
> have your tones 
> > come out without them being solorized. I can't see how anyone can 
> have decent 
> > results with these curve settings. My shadow area is not 
> continuous; there are blotchy 
> > spots through out the blacks, no continuous tones. It looks like 
> someone took a felt 
> > tip pen and made a bunch of dots to create the black area. I just 
> can't see how these 
> > curves were created and anyone have, like I said, good results. 
I'm 
> professional color 
> > technician and have been doing color for prepress for over 7 
years 
> and can't seem to 
> > get this to work. If anyone has ANY advice on how these inks and 
> how digital printing 
> > with these inks and curve settings, please let me know how you 
> accomplished this. 
> > Everyone I have asked can't see how these curve settings can even 
> come close to 
> > giving good results. I have had everything set exactly as to 
Paul's 
> workflow and just 
> > can't seem to get it right. Conventional printing may be the road 
I 
> travel again. This is 
> > very counter-productive.
> > 
> > www.deanmbeattiephoto.com