Digital BW, The Print

To develop film it does not require a dark room. It only requires a 
place that is completly dark so the film can be loaded on the reel and 
put in a light tight tank. That and the kitchen sink is all you need. 
Doing your own development gives you much more control on the results.

Start with one file and learn that film. Pick up something on the "Zone 
System" and it will tell you how to test for the ISO for the camera, 
meter and developer combination. It is normally about 1/2 to one stop 
slower than the rated ISO. Start with a standard developer and get good 
results from that - then you can get exiotic.

Also it is important to bring your scanner into the calibration process. 
You want a negative that you can scan eaisly. Different scanners use 
different types of light and while one negative may be fine on one 
scanner, it may not on another.

Good luck.

Truman

Steve Kale wrote:

> Hi all
>
>
> Is this a good selection to start with or should I, say, abandon T-Max 
> 400 and just use 
> the Tri-X?  Are there others that should be _top of list_ ?  (I would 
> like to keep the
> number small at least at first.)
>
> How should each ideally be exposed?  (I think I have read enough on 
> Tri-X 400  -  rate
> it at 320 - but what of the others?)
>
> What direction should I give to a lab for processing?  (Is this even 
> possible/practible?)
>
> I hope this doesn't start a spurious debate on any issue - I am just 
> looking for a few
> pointers to get restarted here.  FYI, I intend to scan the film with 
> my Epson 2450
> initially  but would then rescan my favs on an Imacon which I can rent 
> hourly at a local
> lab (later I hope to purchase the new Nikon MF scanner).
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