Rick, Welcome to the group. Since the group is, believe it or not, only 8 days old we're are all new here but it is a group of newcomers and people that have literally been into digital B&W since day one and just about every level of experience in between. Don't hesitate about asking questions. The whole idea is to provide a place to get and give information. While I don't rule out working in B&W with standard color CYMK inks, it can, as Steadman pointed out, be difficult. It's great advantage is the ability to customize tones and explore things like split toning. However, after taking a look at your website (great stuff by the way!) and seeing that your work is almost entirely people, I think that a quad tone ink set would do a better job giving you what you want. I have gotten good monochrome from my Epson 1270 but I used their present tritone or quad tone Pantone curves or custom variations of them. These work very nicely if you are willing to move a good distance away from a neutral toned print. One thing to keep in mind if you have any interest in any of the quad tone or other color ink sets is to stick to the Epson printers. There is nothing wrong with HP or Canon but the entire aftermarket ink and software area is directed at Epson printers with very few exceptions. Epson arrived in the market first and has pretty well staked it out at this point. One of the toughest parts about digital B&W is that all this stuff is still so new there is no place to go and see what it looks like. The other issue is that none of them is as easy as printing to your standard Epson. From a software point of view PiezoBW from Inkjetmall.com is the easiest route and the finished prints are excellent. You do need patience with Piezo as there are issues with ink clogs that are fixable but can get tedious. You can get a small sample print from them. MIS ink sets (MIS.com) are also good and offer the advantage of being able to adjust the tone of your print. The software interface does not look quite as simple but is reported to give excellent results. The MIS is said to have fewer head clog problems and is cheaper than the Piezo. Both the Piezo and MIS are pigment inks that offer much longer life than the dye based inks in a standard Epson. They produce prints that are similar to matte silver gelatin prints or platinum prints and do not produce blacks as deep as conventional silver prints. There are also several dye based quad ink sets. such as Lyson and Spectratone. Allen Maertz of Lincoln Inks (www.lincolninks.com) has been posting information on their Spectratone Quad inks. These would be much closer to silver based prints. If you e-mail Allen with your address he will send you some samples. I did some head shot work many years ago and for this business the Spectratones might be a very good way to get the look you want. Especially if the goal is to mass produce prints with a photo duplicater. I am surprised they haven't reached the point of directly accepting digtal files. Digital output from a service bureau with a Lightjet or Lamda laser photo printer would give you neutral B&W on RC color paper. Anyways, browse through the info on the list here and ask questions as they occur to you. Martin Wesley --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Rick Schiller" <rschiller@a...> wrote: > Hi to all, I"m new to the BW Digital group. No doubt this has been covered > extensively so my apoligies for rehashing this. I just sent my Epson 870 > (6-color, 4p) back and will be buying either an Epson 890 or a Canon S800. > When printing BW out on the 870, trying to get a neutral BW, it would > invariabley print out with an ugly green cast. I tried many, many things > both from Photoshop and in the Printer Driver software, all of which didn't > get a neutral black/gray. > The most accurate output I got from a Grayscale image was setting: PCM:on > (which I would not do for color), and ICM profile checked in the advanced > menu of the Epson. Still printed quite green but when reproduced by a > photo duplicater (I shoot Headshots), would of course come out fine. > > Any thoughts from anyone or is it just necesary to go to a 4-ink (1160) > dedicated quadtone Black&white system to achieve real Black & White output? > > best to all, > > Rick Schiller > www.rickschiller.com > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y...> > To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y...> > Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 10:52 AM > Subject: [Digital BW] Digest Number 17 > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > > There are 25 messages in this issue. > > Topics in this digest: > > 1. RE: Panorama Wunder Papier? was Re: Eureka: Wunder Papier Found > From: "Nij" <nigel@n...> > 2. Re: Digital Negs > From: David Corwin <davidcorwin@h...> > 3. Re: Digital Negs > From: "Phil Bard" <phil@p...> > 4. Re: Re: Eureka: Wunder Papier Found > From: "Steadman Uhlich" <steadmanuhlich@k...> > 5. Re: Panorama Paper > From: "Steadman Uhlich" <steadmanuhlich@k...> > 6. Re: Arches Bright White > From: Dan Culbertson <danculb@b...> > 7. Hahnemühle in Los Angeles, CA:Freestyle > From: antonisphoto@y... > 8. Buying Archival Matt/fading > From: allentakichi@e... > 9. Re: Duotone Workflows > From: mwesley250@e... > 10. Re: Panorama Paper > From: mwesley250@e... > 11. Re: Introducing myself. > From: mwesley250@e... > 12. Re: Panorama Paper > From: mwesley250@e... > 13. Re: Digest Number 8 > From: mwesley250@e... > 14. Re: Digital Negs > From: mwesley250@e... > 15. Re: Digital Negs > From: mwesley250@e... > 16. Re: Panorama Paper > From: mwesley250@e... > 17. Epsons from abroad, was: Re: Digest Number 8 > From: "Tim Spragens" <t.spragens@c...> > 18. Re: Re: Arches Bright White > From: "Tim Spragens" <t.spragens@c...> > 19. (Fwd) Jazz: PhotoMesa - A Zoomable Image Browser > From: "Tim Spragens" <t.spragens@c...> > 20. Re: Duotone Workflows > From: tyork@a... > 21. Re: Digital Negs > From: Bill Morse <willym@b...> > 22. Re: Re: Introducing myself. > From: "Rodolpho Pajuaba" <rodolpho@p...> > 23. Re: Buying Archival Matt/fading > From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@r...> > 24. Re: Buying Archival Matt/fading > From: tyork@a... > 25. Re: Buying Archival Matt/fading > From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@r...> > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 22:27:36 +0100 > From: "Nij" <nigel@n...> > Subject: RE: Panorama Wunder Papier? was Re: Eureka: Wunder Papier Found > > I spoke to a Hahnemuhle representative today - he will be sending me some > samples of the new paper (I am way behind in that respect!) I'm afraid I > forgot to ask about narrower rolls, but they did confirm that the new paper > is available in 24" rolls - it's not publicised as much as the 36" + rolls. > Also, Gernam Etching, Torchon, William Turner 310, Albrecht Durer 210. > > No prices available for the new paper in the UK yet... expect developments > within the next 2-3 weeks. > > Nij > > -----Original Message----- > From: mwesley250@e... [mailto:mwesley250@e...] > Sent: 03 August 2001 18:30 > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > Subject: [Digital BW] Panorama Wunder Papier? was Re: Eureka: Wunder > Papier Found > > > Bernd, > > You since you have contact with Hahnemule, would you be kind enough > to ask them about the possibility of obtaining the new paper in 13" > and 17" rolls? Do they have a process for special ordering something > like this? > > Thanks > > Martin > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., ruhrfoto@y... wrote: > > Steadman, > > just couldn´t resist to make you a little jealous ;-) > > > > Some minutes ago, I got my Photo Rag 308gsm sample sheets > > from Hahnemühle. > > 8 sheets of DIN A 2 (16"x23"). > > Now, how shall I use this treasure. > > So many questions: > > First: what shall I print? > > And then: what profile. How many sheets shall I cut down > > and....shall I use one or two for color, hhmmmm....? > > No,no, no.... no color, or? > > > > To be serious: > > though Hahnemühle says the coating is identicall to German > > Etching, they told me, the surface is a little brighter. At first > glance > > I can´t see the difference. but maybe the Orwell profile won´t fit > > automatically best. It seems that the CTM profile was best for > > you. Did you try others than Orwell meanwhile? > > Help me not to waste ink and paper. > > Thanks > > Bernd > > > > PS > > Hahnemuhle told me, they are just making the paper ready to > > ship. It isn´t shipped yet in quantities (just samples), but will > be > > shipped to resellers mid to late August. So everybody be happy if > > you have some German Etching in stock. > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 14:37:38 +0000 > From: David Corwin <davidcorwin@h...> > Subject: Re: Digital Negs > > on 8/3/01 8:06 PM PST, Phil Bard wrote: > > > Point of clarification, apparently the digital negs they produce for > > enlargement purposes are created not on the Lightjet but a (Fuji?) Film > > Recorder 2080. > > Phil- > Out of curiosity, have you tried the LVT film recorder at Bowhaus? (Not > that I have, but they have such a great rep). Wonder what kind of film > recorder Bowhaus uses. You have a choice of outputting to T-Max, Velvia, > Provia, Ektachrome, and Portra, 4x5 or 8x10. > > David Corwin > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 3 > Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 22:14:58 -0000 > From: "Phil Bard" <phil@p...> > Subject: Re: Digital Negs > > This is a question for Antonis. He has a lot of experience with them. > My impression is that the LVT has dynamic range limitations... > > Phil > > > Phil- > > Out of curiosity, have you tried the LVT film recorder at Bowhaus? (Not > > that I have, but they have such a great rep). Wonder what kind of film > > recorder Bowhaus uses. You have a choice of outputting to T-Max, Velvia, > > Provia, Ektachrome, and Portra, 4x5 or 8x10. > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 4 > Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:31:02 -0500 > From: "Steadman Uhlich" <steadmanuhlich@k...> > Subject: Re: Re: Eureka: Wunder Papier Found > > Greetings Bernd! > > Yes, you made me jealous! (grin) > > So to make up for it....why don't you use your ample stock of sample sheets > and test several profiles for us all.... > > I tested only the Orwell and CT Matte profiles and they looked very similar > but the CTM was preferable for the image I used. But very good results with > either one. I chose Orwell becuase HWRS is probably going to be my > replacement for Orwell...and it is similar in weight. > > I chose CTMatte because I wanted to do a direct comparison with the EAM > using the same profile. Also, the HWRS is so smooth, it is most like the > Han. Matte and EAM in surface....of course that may not make a bit of > difference due to different coatings from EAM. > > If I had paper to burn, I would probably try Somerset Enhanced Profile, > Concorde Rag profile. So those four would be a good spread I would think. > > I just looked at those two test prints a few minutes ago and I believe it > will be very difficult to improve on the image quality...very difficult. So > I would not waste any time/paper on trying every other profile. I did that > with Extreme Gamut Satine and over 20 profiles. Many of them are very > similar. > > Best of luck to you and post your results and comments when you > print....just remember to do a test using the same image file on HWRS and > EAM (and others)...and don't forget to do a head alignment each time before > changing papers (I always print a head aligment and nozzle check on the back > of each paper sample I test). Those head alignments make a big difference. > > Have fun, > Steadman > ----- Original Message ----- > From: ruhrfoto@y... > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 8:49 AM > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: Eureka: Wunder Papier Found > > > Steadman, > just couldn´t resist to make you a little jealous ;-) > > Some minutes ago, I got my Photo Rag 308gsm sample sheets > from Hahnemühle. > 8 sheets of DIN A 2 (16"x23"). > Now, how shall I use this treasure. > So many questions: > First: what shall I print? > And then: what profile. How many sheets shall I cut down > and....shall I use one or two for color, hhmmmm....? > No,no, no.... no color, or? > > To be serious: > though Hahnemühle says the coating is identicall to German > Etching, they told me, the surface is a little brighter. At first glance > I can´t see the difference. but maybe the Orwell profile won´t fit > automatically best. It seems that the CTM profile was best for > you. Did you try others than Orwell meanwhile? > Help me not to waste ink and paper. > Thanks > Bernd > > PS > Hahnemuhle told me, they are just making the paper ready to > ship. It isn´t shipped yet in quantities (just samples), but will be > shipped to resellers mid to late August. So everybody be happy if > you have some German Etching in stock. > > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 18:25:40 -0500 > From: "Steadman Uhlich" <steadmanuhlich@k...> > Subject: Re: Panorama Paper > > Martin, > I follow your thinking. > > But I differ. I think it would not be too hard to take a 36" wide roll, > unroll a 36" length, cut it to that length, take that to a flat surface, get > a 36" yard stick, measure, mark paper, hold yardstick to paper and use as a > straightedge, cut into 13" wide strips with a rotary trimmer. > > Cutting mat board straight is tough. 300gsm paper will be easy using the > right tools. > > Rotary Trimmer: > Go to a Michaels art store or similar and get a handheld rotary trimmer for > about $6. They are made by fiskars and others and used by crafters (people > who make quilts of fabric and scrapbooks and paper crafts). These rotary > trimmers even have interchangeable wheels so you could make your paper cute > on the edge with scalloped edges (grin) or even put a faux "deckle edge" on > the strip of paper. > > Use a piece of mat board or foamcore under your paper.They look like a pizza > cutter (that could work too) and work wonders if used with a straightedge. > Cheap and efficient. Keep the rest on the roll for storage. > > That is what I would/will do. > > Regards, > Steadman > ----- Original Message ----- > From: mwesley250@e... > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 12:17 PM > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Panorama Paper > > > Steadman, > > You're absolutely right about the Epson roll adapters for the desktop > models. I unfortunately bought the roll adapter for my 1270 and I > doubt its ability to handle even Epson's paper! Probably fine for > mass producing family snap shots off a 4" roll but not for heavy > papers. > > I thought about cutting 13" X 36" strips off of 36" wide rolls but > you would need a good cutter. I don't think that the desktop printers > would tolerate much variation in paper width if you couldn't get a > straight cut. > > I might be able to do it with my mat cutter. A 36" Rotatrim would be > better but cost about $365. Of course you could buy a Rotatrim 99" > DIGITECH CUTTER for about $1,000 and get just about anything you > wanted out of any current rolls or sheets. Aside from the cost there > is the old where do I put it when I'm not using it issue. > > I would just as soon have a paper in a 13" wide roll I could cut at > any length with the 20" Rotatrim I already have. > > Martin > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Steadman Uhlich" > <steadmanuhlich@k...> wrote: > > I think the best cost effective solution is buy the roll, cut off > the 36 inch length and hand feed it. Roll adaptors made for photo > (lightweight paper) are probably not built to handle a heavy > roll...longterm. also, skip the roll adaptor...save more money for > more paper! > > > > Steadman > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: mwesley250@e... > > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > > Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 10:03 PM > > Subject: [Digital BW] Panorama Paper > > > > > > Earlier the issue of panorama paper was brought up by John > Brownlow > > (Post #46) and I don't want the thread to die out without an > answer. > > While there are art paper options for the big printers in rolls > there > > is a need for Panorama sized paper for the desktop models. > > > > In checking around the web I have not turned up anything at all, > > nothing. > > > > Does anyone know of any quality paper that is being sold in say a > > 13X26 or longer size? Or better yet 13" or 17" rolls? (Epson > makes > > the Photo Paper in 4" and 13"(?) rolls I believe but this is not > my > > idea of quality paper. Jump in if you disagree.) > > > > If not, is there anyway to special order from any of the major > > manufacturers/suppliers like Crane, Hahnemule, Arches, Legion, > > Brightcube, Lyson, Hawk Mountain, Lumijet, etc..? > > > > This is a tough one because while there are roll adapters for the > > desktop printers they definitely were not designed for a nice 310 > gsm > > paper so there is no obvious motivation to supply rolls! > > > > But if there were 13" and 17" wide rolls of art paper you could > just > > cut off the length you wanted and hand feed it. That way you > could do > > 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:? panorama's as desired. > > > > Any ideas on how to get something like this? > > > > It would be really great to have a 12" by 36" B&W print matted > and > > framed up on the wall!!! > > > > Martin > > > > > > > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of > Service. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 6 > Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 19:39:40 -0700 > From: Dan Culbertson <danculb@b...> > Subject: Re: Arches Bright White > > > And a few other no doubt expensive papers that look like they > > would be worth exploring. Has anyone come up with a home-brew > > coating for printing on art papers? > > Don't laugh, these work pretty good -- pain in the rear to do though. > > For pigment inks or dye inks that won't work with gelatin (see below) use > liquid egg whites (albumen). Break the slight gloss with a few drops of > Maalox in the egg white solution. > > For dye inks use Knox gelatin. Soak the paper in the gelatin solution and > hang to dry or brush on multiple thin coatings. Probably could use some > sort of roller as well but I always sort of liked the residual brush > strokes. Note that not all dye based inks work with gelatin - Wide Spectrum > and Spectratones work fine with it. Under some conditions you may have to > moisturize the paper before printing since a heavy gelatin coating tends to > get pretty hard. Possibly the below recipe I found would be better and not > harden so much but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. > > From http://www.astro.wisc.edu/~mukluk/misc.html > Part of a Carbon Process printing recipe. > > Mix together > 110 parts gelatin > 25 parts sugar > 12 parts dry soap > 350 parts water > > > Finally - there is some sort of chemical that folks add to prevent mold > growth and insect problems. Don't remember what it is though. My > experiments didn't need preserving -- they were just experiments, better off > as roach food. > > Dan Culbertson > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 7 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 00:02:14 -0000 > From: antonisphoto@y... > Subject: Hahnemühle in Los Angeles, CA:Freestyle > > I was very surprised today to find the whole range of Hahnemühle papers > packaged under their original manufacturer name available on the shelves at= > > Freestyle, a well known photo supply house. My surprise was both because I= > > saw everything in their original names, but also because of the easy acces= > s > for those of us in LA. Hence I am posting this right away. > > I haven't done the price comparisons yet. I am putting all this in the pap= > er > database and will tally the results later (and post an upgrade when ready).= > > This isn't meant as a "plug" for Freestyle, neither am I associated with t= > hem in > any capacity. Just good news that we have one more paper source! > > http://www.freestylesalesco.com/ > > > > Antonis > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 04:22:32 -0000 > From: allentakichi@e... > Subject: Buying Archival Matt/fading > > Jerry, > > Exactly what are your test conditions? > Specifically, is your test paper directly up to > the window glass? What is your humidity > like? How much sun are you getting and do > you have plain old normal single strength > glass??? > > I think that I'm seeing oxidation of the > Generations Enhanced inkset especially in > the K and clost to K patchs due to me > introducing artificially high temperatures. > I've taped the latest batch of test swatches > directly to the window. > > I've crimped the paper so there is an airspace > between the glass and the test paper but I've > now come to the conclusion that it's > inadequate and I'm introducing a high heat > related premature fading that has little to do > with light fading. I've got pretty good > humidity here which may be a crucial > cofactor. > > I have always pinned my patches to > foamcore and held it a couple of inches from > the glass and looking up older records, I > show much longer results then I'm getting > right now in this kind of quick informal > testing. > > Thanks, > > Allen Maertz > lincolninks.com > > > . > Message: 15 > Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 10:31:52 -0500 > From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@r...> > Subject: Re: Buying Archival Matt > > No fading for at least 2 months in a south > window in North Dakota! > Generations is really good on Epson > Archival Matte, one of the best. (Up > here). > > Jerry > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 9 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 04:44:31 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Duotone Workflows > > Tim, > > Give this a try. Just a starting point. > > Convert a grayscale to RGB. > > Create a Levels adjustment layer. Switch to the Red channel and set > the center gamma slider to about 1.10. > > Create a second Levels layer and set the Blue gamma to 1.10. > > Vary the Opacity of the two adjustment layers to get the tone you > want. > > Unless your monitor is closely color calibrated there will be a lot > of trial printing to get the tone you want. > > Because of the lot to lot variations in ink and paper there is not > firm point for these kinds of adjustments, or at least I have not > found any yet. This method give more subtle control than just the > channel adjustments. If you get a split tone, do tone selections and > adjust those seperately. > > No formula, but perhaps a place to start. > > Martin > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., tyork@a... wrote: > > Hi Allen, > > > > Thank you for your suggestions. I would like to achieve a b/w with > as > > close to a selenium look as possible. I know that is difficult > > because of it's subjectivity but I think you know what i mean. The > > blue/purplish blacks and deep,rich grays that you could almost > scoop > > the gray out of. Paper plays a big part to the look I'm trying to > > achieve, but if I can come close I will be happy. > > Using the duotones will also allow me to print color when I > > need/want to. If I can't get this then I will buy a second printer, > > but that still wouldn't get me my selenium-toned prints. Thanks > again. > > > > > > Tim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., allentakichi@e... wrote: > > > Tim, > > > > > > The Blatner and Frasier book is invaluable > > > for understanding color management and > > > how photoshop works and I'd recommend it > > > even if you had zero interest in duotones. > > > > > > I get the feeling that you are actually > > > interested in duotone simulations using the > > > colored inks. This and neutral printing with > > > colored inks is probably the ultimate difficult > > > thing to do well. That's why a real duotone, > > > tritone or quadtone solution is valuable. > > > Harder to start but easy to print once set up. > > > > > > I did get Yarc to write a 6 color independent > > > manual channel driver option for their RIP > > > for the Spectratones before they kinda > > > dissapeared. > > > > > > Anyway if you want to do duotone > > > simulations, "just" get a neutral grayscale, > > > the adjust the color cast in curves in the > > > individual rgb channels. It's direct, simple > > > but difficult to do well image to image. > > > > > > I doubt there is an easier answer. > > > > > > Allen Maertz > > > lincolninks.com > > > > > > > > > Message: 4 > > > Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:46:17 -0000 > > > From: tyork@a... > > > Subject: Duotone Workflows was Re: Tim > > > York: re:papers > > > > > > Martin, > > > > > > As I mentioned I e-mailed View Camera but > > > they didn't know anything > > > about the article. I'm not sure where to go > > > now. I read Allen's > > > comment to you but don't have the book. Oh > > > well, C'est la vie. > > > > > > Tim > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 10 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 04:48:19 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Panorama Paper > > John, > > Sounds interesting. Did you get the design off the web or is this > your own invention? > > Martin > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Johnny Deadman <john@p...> > wrote: > > on 8/3/01 1:35 PM, mwesley250@e... at mwesley250@e... > > wrote: > > > > > Is that a camera mount? > > > > yes a mount which holds the camera vertical with the nodal point of > the lens > > over the axis of rotation. Mine is made of wood with settings for a > 17mm and > > 24mm lens mounted on my T90, and has a rotator built in to it, plus > quick > > release clamps for both camera and mount (the most expensive part > of the > > rig!). > > > > Sounds much more complicated than it is. It removes parallax > problems. > > > > > > -- > > John Brownlow > > > > http://www.pinkheadedbug.com > > > > ICQ: 109343205 > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 11 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 04:53:25 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Introducing myself. > > Welcome Rudolpho, > > It is nice to see that the group is literally spanning the globe > already. I enjoyed your site and the cyanotypes. I wish I could see > them in person. > > I would also be interested in your workflow in going straight from > digital to B&W output. Do you shoot in B&W mode or do you convert to > B&W in photoshop? What method are you using to make the negatives for > the cyanotype prints? > > Martin Wesley > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Rodolpho Pajuaba > <rodolpho@p...> wrote: > > Hello, all, > > This is my first post to the group, I want to introduce myself: > > My name is Rodolpho Pajuaba, I'm a photographer in Curitiba, > Brazil, and I > > work with digital photography for three and half years now, with a > > MegaVision S2 digital Back. My main interest in the > Black&white/Digital mix > > is to make good big negatives to work on cyanotypes and > palladium/platinum > > prints. Some of this job can be seen on my website, > www.pajuaba.com.br (it's > > in portuguese), under "ensaios". > > -- > > Regards, > > Rodolpho Pajuaba > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 12 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 04:54:31 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Panorama Paper > > Thanks for the tip! It looks a little friendier to get started with. > > Martin > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Rodolpho Pajuaba > <rodolpho@p...> wrote: > > > > > > > > These are the tools I was referring to. They do a wonderful job, > though it > > > takes some headscratching at first. One day someone will wrap a > slick > > > interface around them and charge a thousand dollars for it. > > > > > Actually, there is a very good interface for Dr. Dersch's tools, > called > > PTGui.(www.ptgui.com) It's last version is shareware (about US$ > 40,00), but > > is windows only. To work with them on the Mac, one should use the > PTPicker > > (which comes in the package), it's the easiest entry to this > software. > > > > Hope this helps, > > Rodolpho Pajuaba > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 13 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 05:00:11 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Digest Number 8 > > Victoria, Bernd, > > Thank you for checking. While not the easiest way to go if 1160's can > be found in the U.S., the non-U.S. sources could become a way get a > new 1160 as the supply dindles here. In fact here is a great > opportunity for a "gray market" importer! > > Martin > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Victoria Bampton" > <victoria_bampton@c...> wrote: > > Great idea Martin. > > > > I couldn't find a voltage switch, but the sticker on the back says > 220-240v > > ~ 50-60hz 0.2A, if that makes any sense to you. :) > > > > Victoria > > -----Original Message----- > > From: mwesley250@e... [mailto:mwesley250@e...] > > Sent: 2 August 2001 11:58 PM > > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Digest Number 8 > > > > > > Roger, > > > > Victoria's message made me think to check Epson's main website and > > various country sites. The 1160 appears in their product line up > > everywhere I checked except the US. So it looks like the 1160 is > > still in production but not for sale in the US. You could probably > > get a new one from Europe or Australia. Both the UK and Australia > > sites listed retail web stores. > > > > Did not see the 1200 anywhere but it may have a different model > > number. > > > > Of course you would have to pay more in shiping and some import > duty. > > One other thing to watch out for would be electrical requirements. > > Most of Europe is on 250V, 50Hz rather than 125V, 60Hz but a lot > of > > electronics have switches to select the voltage. > > > > Question for any EU 1160 owners. Does your 1160 have a voltage > > selection switch and what plug adapters came with it? > > > > Martin > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Victoria Bampton" > > <victoria_bampton@c...> wrote: > > > Roger > > > > > > Where are you? I'm in the UK, and the other day I spotted that > > Dabs.com > > > still had them available. > > > > > > Hope that helps. > > > > > > Victoria > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Roger Smith [mailto:rbsmith@t...] > > > Sent: 2 August 2001 12:26 AM > > > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > > > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Digest Number 8 > > > > > > > > > I'm wanting to set up for B&W and have been told that the best > > printer in > > > this size range is the Epson 1160. They are out of production > > and I can't > > > seem to find a referb one. Does anyone have advise on where I > > might > > > locate > > > one of these? I use a 1200 for color but think I want to try > the > > curves > > > developed by people on the list for B&W so I need a 1160 or > 1280, > > I'd > > > prefer > > > the 1160 if I can find one. What a great list! Just what > I've > > been > > > looking > > > for. Thanks. > > > > > > Roger Smith > > > > > > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you > may > > > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > > > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of > > Service. > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of > Service. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 14 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 05:22:04 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Digital Negs > > Phil, > > By now you are hopefully in Oakhurst having a great time. > > I checked A&I's site and it is a Lightjet 2080 which was made by > Cymbologic. Cymbologic doesn't list it on their website so I wonder > if it is out of production. > > A Yahoo search on "Lightjet 2080" turned up a few mentions of other > service bureaus that have them. Nancy scans has one but does not > mention B&W. Found a deal on two used ones, a 1996 and 1997. If you > have a spare $39,400 you could have one in your studio. No wonder the > output costs a bit! > > I like A&I's reply. You really are doing a system calibration from > camera-scan-monitor-(proof printer)-digital neg-enlarger-print which > is a rather long chain. > > A rough idea for a possible calibration workflow: > > Get a 4X5 Stauffer step tablet > > Measure all the steps with a densitometer > > Enlarge it onto your favorite #2 paper at the size you anticipate so > that the print Dmin falls at least three steps from the end of the > scale. > > Raw scan the step tablet > > Take it into Photoshop and in levels put the white point on the step > that gave paper Dmax and the black point on the step that gave paper > Dmin. > > Output this file to the Lightjet 2080 > > Output the raw scan of the step tablet to the 2080. > > Record the density of all the steps on these step tablets. > > Hopefully this would give you enough information to create a transfer > function to map from a negative/scan to Lightjet output. > > I may be missing something here, but it might be a way to go simplify > the system calibration. > > Martin > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Phil Bard" <phil@p...> > wrote: > > Everyone, > > > > I won't have anything to report on the tests I'm conducting with > A&I > > until early next week. I spoke with them moments ago and they said > > film should be ready this afternoon, but I'm off to the Piezo > Summit > > and won't be able to pick it up. > > > > Point of clarification, apparently the digital negs they produce > for > > enlargement purposes are created not on the Lightjet but a (Fuji?) > Film > > Recorder 2080. The Lightjet outputs Duratrans (as well as print > > media), but not camera film, and therefore is not suitable for my > > purposes. Sorry for the misinformation, my initial meetings with > them > > took place along with a fellow photographer who is testing their > print > > output, and the specifics as to what device was doing what were not > > clarified. I'm now dealing with the operators and getting my info > > straight from them. > > > > They have stressed all along, however, and I should make this > clear, > > that the initial phases of this process take time. Everyone's film > and > > enlarger combination is a bit different and they have to make > several > > runs to get into sync with their client. You would have to expect > the > > same should you decide to go this route. > > > > Have a great weekend, and I'll see some of you, no doubt, in > Oakhurst. > > > > Phil > > http://philbard.com > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 15 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 05:27:04 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Digital Negs > > David, > > I couldn't find much on the 2080 on the web but one blurb claimed > that there was superior alighnment of the RGB lasers over the LVT > giving enhanced sharpness. Wish there was more info on this. > > Martin > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., David Corwin > <davidcorwin@h...> wrote: > > on 8/3/01 8:06 PM PST, Phil Bard wrote: > > > > > Point of clarification, apparently the digital negs they produce > for > > > enlargement purposes are created not on the Lightjet but a > (Fuji?) Film > > > Recorder 2080. > > > > Phil- > > Out of curiosity, have you tried the LVT film recorder at Bowhaus? > (Not > > that I have, but they have such a great rep). Wonder what kind of > film > > recorder Bowhaus uses. You have a choice of outputting to T-Max, > Velvia, > > Provia, Ektachrome, and Portra, 4x5 or 8x10. > > > > David Corwin > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 16 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 05:43:15 -0000 > From: mwesley250@e... > Subject: Re: Panorama Paper > > Steadman, > > Well I did use to cut mat board with a straight edge and an Exacto > knife. If you cut two 13" wide strips off the two finished edges you > would have one perfect edge on each sheet. > > The rotary trimmer sounds interesting. > > This would probably work for the size panoramas I had in mind, 1:3 so > 13x36 would be nice. For what John had in mind I don't know. A 360 > Spinshot at a 1:7 or 1:8 would need about 13 by 90. > > Come to think of it though isn't there a length limit with the Epson > desktop printers at 44". You could probably hand cut to that length. > > Thanks for the good ideas. I think I need to decide what paper I want > to settle on before I buy a 36" roll and attack it. > > Martin > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Steadman Uhlich" > <steadmanuhlich@k...> wrote: > > Martin, > > I follow your thinking. > > > > But I differ. I think it would not be too hard to take a 36" wide > roll, unroll a 36" length, cut it to that length, take that to a flat > surface, get a 36" yard stick, measure, mark paper, hold yardstick to > paper and use as a straightedge, cut into 13" wide strips with a > rotary trimmer. > > > > Cutting mat board straight is tough. 300gsm paper will be easy > using the right tools. > > > > Rotary Trimmer: > > Go to a Michaels art store or similar and get a handheld rotary > trimmer for about $6. They are made by fiskars and others and used by > crafters (people who make quilts of fabric and scrapbooks and paper > crafts). These rotary trimmers even have interchangeable wheels so > you could make your paper cute on the edge with scalloped edges > (grin) or even put a faux "deckle edge" on the strip of paper. > > > > Use a piece of mat board or foamcore under your paper.They look > like a pizza cutter (that could work too) and work wonders if used > with a straightedge. Cheap and efficient. Keep the rest on the roll > for storage. > > > > That is what I would/will do. > > > > Regards, > > Steadman > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: mwesley250@e... > > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 12:17 PM > > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Panorama Paper > > > > > > Steadman, > > > > You're absolutely right about the Epson roll adapters for the > desktop > > models. I unfortunately bought the roll adapter for my 1270 and I > > doubt its ability to handle even Epson's paper! Probably fine for > > mass producing family snap shots off a 4" roll but not for heavy > > papers. > > > > I thought about cutting 13" X 36" strips off of 36" wide rolls > but > > you would need a good cutter. I don't think that the desktop > printers > > would tolerate much variation in paper width if you couldn't get > a > > straight cut. > > > > I might be able to do it with my mat cutter. A 36" Rotatrim would > be > > better but cost about $365. Of course you could buy a Rotatrim > 99" > > DIGITECH CUTTER for about $1,000 and get just about anything you > > wanted out of any current rolls or sheets. Aside from the cost > there > > is the old where do I put it when I'm not using it issue. > > > > I would just as soon have a paper in a 13" wide roll I could cut > at > > any length with the 20" Rotatrim I already have. > > > > Martin > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Steadman Uhlich" > > <steadmanuhlich@k...> wrote: > > > I think the best cost effective solution is buy the roll, cut > off > > the 36 inch length and hand feed it. Roll adaptors made for > photo > > (lightweight paper) are probably not built to handle a heavy > > roll...longterm. also, skip the roll adaptor...save more money > for > > more paper! > > > > > > Steadman > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: mwesley250@e... > > > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y... > > > Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 10:03 PM > > > Subject: [Digital BW] Panorama Paper > > > > > > > > > Earlier the issue of panorama paper was brought up by John > > Brownlow > > > (Post #46) and I don't want the thread to die out without an > > answer. > > > While there are art paper options for the big printers in > rolls > > there > > > is a need for Panorama sized paper for the desktop models. > > > > > > In checking around the web I have not turned up anything at > all, > > > nothing. > > > > > > Does anyone know of any quality paper that is being sold in > say a > > > 13X26 or longer size? Or better yet 13" or 17" rolls? (Epson > > makes > > > the Photo Paper in 4" and 13"(?) rolls I believe but this is > not > > my > > > idea of quality paper. Jump in if you disagree.) > > > > > > If not, is there anyway to special order from any of the > major > > > manufacturers/suppliers like Crane, Hahnemule, Arches, > Legion, > > > Brightcube, Lyson, Hawk Mountain, Lumijet, etc..? > > > > > > This is a tough one because while there are roll adapters for > the > > > desktop printers they definitely were not designed for a nice > 310 > > gsm > > > paper so there is no obvious motivation to supply rolls! > > > > > > But if there were 13" and 17" wide rolls of art paper you > could > > just > > > cut off the length you wanted and hand feed it. That way you > > could do > > > 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:? panorama's as desired. > > > > > > Any ideas on how to get something like this? > > > > > > It would be really great to have a 12" by 36" B&W print > matted > > and > > > framed up on the wall!!! > > > > > > Martin > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you > may > > > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > > > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of > > Service. > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of > Service. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 17 > Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 09:53:28 +0100 > From: "Tim Spragens" <t.spragens@c...> > Subject: Epsons from abroad, was: Re: Digest Number 8 > > > a way get a > > new 1160 as the supply dindles here. In fact here is a great > > opportunity for a "gray market" importer! > > I fear there would be liability risks here, unless the importer wanted > to rework the printers to work on US voltage. I also wonder if the > printers here are just stock moving slower through the pipeline, > rather than new printers supplied by Epson. > > Tim > -- > Tim Spragens > http://www.borderless-photos.com > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 18 > Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 09:53:28 +0100 > From: "Tim Spragens" <t.spragens@c...> > Subject: Re: Re: Arches Bright White > > Thanks for the tips! A new medium - "Digital Albumen Prints" > sounds impressive. I wonder if I'll ever find the time to try. > > I assume that the soap is used to break surface tension, what > does the sugar do? Was it boric acid that was used as the insect > inhibitor? > > Tim > > > Don't laugh, these work pretty good -- pain in the rear to do though. > > > > -- > Tim Spragens > http://www.borderless-photos.com > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 19 > Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 10:16:51 +0100 > From: "Tim Spragens" <t.spragens@c...> > Subject: (Fwd) Jazz: PhotoMesa - A Zoomable Image Browser > > For those of you interested in software. The article is interesting, > but I doubt I'll find the time to do much with the program itself. I > would be interested to hear if anyone tries it. > > Tim > > ------- Forwarded message follows ------- > From: "Bederson, Ben" <bederson@c...> > To: "Jazz Announce (E-mail)" <jazz-announce@c...> > Subject: Jazz: PhotoMesa - A Zoomable Image Browser > Date sent: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 15:04:41 -0400 > > Hello Jazz'ers, > > I've written a Jazz-based application for browsing photos called > PhotoMesa. It uses Treemaps to group photos by directory, and > provides a simple interface for zooming in and out of photos. It was > just written up by Sun and is featured on the Java home page. You > can read the article at > http://java.sun.com/features/2001/08/photomesa.html > or download > photomesa at http://www.cs.umd.edu/hcil/photomesa > > (Sorry to bother folks on jazz-chat who have seen this. I realized I > had never told the broader list about PhotoMesa). > > - Ben > > +------------------------------------------------------------------- -+ > | Prof. Ben Bederson Director, Human-Computer Interaction > Lab | > | bederson@c... Computer Science Department > | > | www.cs.umd.edu/~bederson 3171 A.V. Williams Building > | > | (301) 405-2764 University of Maryland | > | (301) 405-6707 (FAX) College Park, MD 20742 | > +------------------------------------------------------------------- -+ > > ------- End of forwarded message ------- > -- > Tim Spragens > http://www.borderless-photos.com > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 20 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 11:42:00 -0000 > From: tyork@a... > Subject: Re: Duotone Workflows > > Hi Martin, > > Thank you for your suggestion. I am grateful for any and all help. If > I can get close to the quality I saw in that seleniun print years ago > I will be a happy camper. When I get something that I feel is pretty > good I will be glad to share it with the list as a kind of payback > for the help you guys have given me. Thanks again. > > Tim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., mwesley250@e... wrote: > > Tim, > > > > Give this a try. Just a starting point. > > > > Convert a grayscale to RGB. > > > > Create a Levels adjustment layer. Switch to the Red channel and set > > the center gamma slider to about 1.10. > > > > Create a second Levels layer and set the Blue gamma to 1.10. > > > > Vary the Opacity of the two adjustment layers to get the tone you > > want. > > > > Unless your monitor is closely color calibrated there will be a lot > > of trial printing to get the tone you want. > > > > Because of the lot to lot variations in ink and paper there is not > > firm point for these kinds of adjustments, or at least I have not > > found any yet. This method give more subtle control than just the > > channel adjustments. If you get a split tone, do tone selections > and > > adjust those seperately. > > > > No formula, but perhaps a place to start. > > > > Martin > > > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., tyork@a... wrote: > > > Hi Allen, > > > > > > Thank you for your suggestions. I would like to achieve a b/w > with > > as > > > close to a selenium look as possible. I know that is difficult > > > because of it's subjectivity but I think you know what i mean. > The > > > blue/purplish blacks and deep,rich grays that you could almost > > scoop > > > the gray out of. Paper plays a big part to the look I'm trying to > > > achieve, but if I can come close I will be happy. > > > Using the duotones will also allow me to print color when I > > > need/want to. If I can't get this then I will buy a second > printer, > > > but that still wouldn't get me my selenium-toned prints. Thanks > > again. > > > > > > > > > Tim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., allentakichi@e... wrote: > > > > Tim, > > > > > > > > The Blatner and Frasier book is invaluable > > > > for understanding color management and > > > > how photoshop works and I'd recommend it > > > > even if you had zero interest in duotones. > > > > > > > > I get the feeling that you are actually > > > > interested in duotone simulations using the > > > > colored inks. This and neutral printing with > > > > colored inks is probably the ultimate difficult > > > > thing to do well. That's why a real duotone, > > > > tritone or quadtone solution is valuable. > > > > Harder to start but easy to print once set up. > > > > > > > > I did get Yarc to write a 6 color independent > > > > manual channel driver option for their RIP > > > > for the Spectratones before they kinda > > > > dissapeared. > > > > > > > > Anyway if you want to do duotone > > > > simulations, "just" get a neutral grayscale, > > > > the adjust the color cast in curves in the > > > > individual rgb channels. It's direct, simple > > > > but difficult to do well image to image. > > > > > > > > I doubt there is an easier answer. > > > > > > > > Allen Maertz > > > > lincolninks.com > > > > > > > > > > > > Message: 4 > > > > Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:46:17 -0000 > > > > From: tyork@a... > > > > Subject: Duotone Workflows was Re: Tim > > > > York: re:papers > > > > > > > > Martin, > > > > > > > > As I mentioned I e-mailed View Camera but > > > > they didn't know anything > > > > about the article. I'm not sure where to go > > > > now. I read Allen's > > > > comment to you but don't have the book. Oh > > > > well, C'est la vie. > > > > > > > > Tim > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 21 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 08:21:29 -0400 > From: Bill Morse <willym@b...> > Subject: Re: Digital Negs > > David- > Bowhaus uses a Kodak LVT- I have had great success with it, primarily w/ > T-max 4x5's 80 res, enlarged to 20x24 and above. It's a great service. > (wish I could say the same about their scans, but that's another story...) > > Bill Morse > PhotoProspect > Cambridge, Mass. > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., David Corwin > <davidcorwin@h...> wrote: > > Phil- > > Out of curiosity, have you tried the LVT film recorder at Bowhaus? > (Not > > that I have, but they have such a great rep). Wonder what kind of > film > > recorder Bowhaus uses. You have a choice of outputting to T-Max, > Velvia, > > Provia, Ektachrome, and Portra, 4x5 or 8x10. > > > > David Corwin > > > If you do not wish to belong to Digital B&W, The Print, you may > unsubscribe by sending an email to: > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@y... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 22 > Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 11:53:45 -0300 > From: "Rodolpho Pajuaba" <rodolpho@p...> > Subject: Re: Re: Introducing myself. > > > > Welcome Rudolpho, > > > > It is nice to see that the group is literally spanning the globe > > already. I enjoyed your site and the cyanotypes. I wish I could see > > them in person. > > > > I would also be interested in your workflow in going straight from > > digital to B&W output. Do you shoot in B&W mode or do you convert to > > B&W in photoshop? What method are you using to make the negatives for > > the cyanotype prints? > > > > Martin Wesley > > > > Thanks for the kind words. > Regarding my workflow: > I shoot normally, in RGB, and convert to Grayscale as the last step, after > sizing, sharpening , whatever needed. I use to convert using Channel Mixer > if I remember, it´s Image>Adjust>Channel Mixer in PS). Check the > "Monochrome" box, and play with the channels until the densities are in the > right place. The negatives for those cyanotypes were done on my Epson 850, > on transparency. I liked the mood, and the inkjet "grain", because I wanted > to achieve a high contrast output, but for a softer, more detailed in > shadows and highlights I´d output in press-printing film from a bureau, or > use a better printer ;-) . > Rodolpho Pajuaba > www.pajuaba.com.br > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 23 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 11:10:36 -0500 > From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@r...> > Subject: Re: Buying Archival Matt/fading > > Nothing fancy Allen. > > My tests are only to compare one inkset with another and to see how long > each lasts before beginning to fade, shift, change color, etc. I use just a > small piece of scotch tape in the top middle of the print, so over time the > print curls a bit. I mostly just use Epson's Archival matte paper. I know > these aren't scientific tests or even close to it. I just want to see which > inksets last the longest before starting to show changes. The MIS Variable > tone inks With Paul Roark's Curves were first. The piezo ink with the > generations cyan and magenta added to the yellow position to make coldtones > were second. (Very close, either one rates very good). Regular piezo was > third. Generations Color inks were the best color inks I tested, but have > not used the MIS or Piezo color inks yet. The new 1280 epson original color > inks withstood 2 months before I could see any change at all, even then, it > was the paper that turned ivory colored, and not the inks. > > The picture window faces South, it's about 6x8 feet in area, and has 2 panes > of heavy glass. I figure if the print can withstand 2 months of sunny north > dakota weather that they will last a long time under normal room lighting. > I've never had any inkset change color, or fade under normal room light, > except the original Stylus color 800 color printer inks of about 5 years > ago. Those prints are toast. Totally faded, color shifted, and worthless. > And they've all been kept in a dark box. > > Humidity varies from about 35 to 60 percent depending on the time of year. > > > I don't think any inkset on the market combined with any paper will > > actually show an image totally unchanged in 25 years. I really don't. > > There are far far too many variables that can affect both ink AND paper. > > In North Dakota we have a very low level of pollution, no ozone pollution > > as far as I know. We do have A Sugar refining plant and a potato plant > > that gives off odors that will melt the chrome off a car bumper, so God > > only knows what they will do to a print a few years down the line. > > > I have always pinned my patches to > > foamcore and held it a couple of inches from > > the glass and looking up older records, I > > show much longer results then I'm getting > > right now in this kind of quick informal > > testing. > > I've never done precise testing, Just what I mention above. It is only to > see which inksets last the longest for a couple months before something > changes. > > I have had an original piezo print in my car's rear shelf for 1 year. > (yesterday was the 365th day). No Fading, but it can only be called a full > fledged sepia toned print now. The bad thing is the paper itself gets much > more ivory colored than it was when printed, and this makes the highlights > in the print the same color as the paper is now, which makes the print less > than wonderful. > > > > Jerry > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > > Message: 24 > Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 17:22:50 -0000 > From: tyork@a... > Subject: Re: Buying Archival Matt/fading > > Hi Jerry, > > Please let me know how your tests turn out on the color inks. What > are the color gamut's like? How would you rate the color inks,gamut, > longevity etc.? As you know I'm trying to decide on my color inks as > the last piece of the puzzle for me. Thank you. > > > Tim > > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., Jerry Olson > <jerryolson@r...> wrote: > > Nothing fancy Allen. > > > > My tests are only to compare one inkset with another and to see how > long > > each lasts before beginning to fade, shift, change color, etc. I > use (Message over 64 KB, truncated)
Message
Re: Epson "Greenies": any cure w/o going to dedicated system
2001-08-05 by mwesley250@earthlink.net