Digital BW, The Print

Tyler,

> > Print #1 - Proofed w/o adjustments
> >            Printed RGB/Cone Lysonic Driver LegionAHP
> >            Nice neutralish to warm (yellow)
> What does Cone Lysonic Driver LegionAHP refer to? Are you using thr 
> Epson driver with a Cone profile for Legion Arches Hot Press? Or do 
> you have a Cone driver of some kind? I know he distributed some at 
> workshops.

Sorry, I'm using "driver" where I should be using "profile".  I 
ordered the complete printer profile set for the Epson 3000 from 
Inkjetmall...so I'm referring to Cone's Profile for Lysonic E inks to 
Legions (A)rches (H)ot (P)ress paper.
> 
> > Print #2 - Needed to make one part of the picture belong
> >            tonally, adjustments to only that portion.
> >            Not exactly sure why print 1 & 2 are not exactly
> >            the same except for that one area.
> >            Printed RGB/Cone Lysonic Driver LegionAHP
> >            Warmer, towards red, still very nice.
> I'm not sure what sort of adjustment you mean. Anything that 
adjusted tone? Did the print get lees red as it dried?

I just did a curve adjustment on one portion of the picture, 
selected.  The print is close but not exact in tone as the first.  It 
did not 'dry' closer.  Inks are pretty dry when it is done by the 
way, AHP is pretty absorbent.
> 
> > Print #3 - Dumped Color to print greyscale
> >            Printed RGB/greyscale
> >            Greener cast even in full black.
> Do you mean it was previously a color image, that you changed to 
> greyscale? Did it have color in it before you changed or was it 
> neutral?

Original (Print#1) was scanned in Fotolook (DuoScan) in negative, 
greyscale, 8bit, 2000dpi, and printed right away as a proof.  This 
was the most neutral/warm...so converting it to RBG for print #2 may 
have introduced the slightly warmer tone! [[Hey, thanks for answering 
that quandry!! :-) ]]  

I don't remember why I was inclined to convert the original greyscale 
scan to RBG, maybe just dumb habit at this point.  To recap, Print#1 
Greyscale, #2 converted to RGB, #3 went back to greyscale...oh yeah, 
I was wanting to see if there was a difference in the printing and 
there is.
 
> 
> > Print #4 - No adjustments from #3
> >            Printed Black Only/greyscale
> >            Neutral to cool blue even in full black
> Do you mean you selected balck ink in the driver? If so, this makes 
> sense since the Lysonic K ink is blueish.

Yes, a confirmation of slight blue tone to a black ink only selected 
in the driver.

> > 
> > Full black when set side by side without seeing image is
> > enough to see the differences of print mode selection.
> What mode? Media selection?

The actual prints themselves...I did some of this to see if a solid 
black tone would appear different with each change.  Normally I would 
not commit that much ink or that style of print to an image, a solid 
black surrounding and image.

> > Also, the printer has no problem printing right over the
> > stamp & watermark on this paper.
> Arches has a history of use for fine art inkjet prints, I can't 
quite tell what your workflow is from the above, but a good custom 
profile 
> made specificly for the ink/paper/printer combo would move you 
miles 
> closer to something more predictable, particularly with a careful 
> media selection test in the driver to avoid mottle. Perhaps that is 
> all old news to you.

Too new for anything to be old news.  Sometimes need to hear it a 
couple of times to make sense of it anyhow.  I believe the Cone 
Profile is a very nice one; I also printed today without it and 
didn't like the results as much.  It does provide best black and 
neutral so far.

Thank you > Tyler
Sincerely-
Cleavis

Normally I'd snip but the detail seemed important.