Digital BW, The Print

Don,
  Thanks for the detailed reply. I also have a C84 available, am also
calibrated with MOnaco, and have just a couple more questions.
Do you feel your results blow away the 2200 as the "other Don" implied ?
Why are you using the Epson black instead of the MIS ?
If you used MIS black, which would you use ?
Have you experienced head clogging ?

                  Stuart



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "D. Hill"
<hill14701@y...> wrote:
> Different Don here, but I think I can help.  I had
> been using the C84 with MIS EZ Neutral inkset and my
> prints exactly matched my screen.
> 
> > sl91911 wrote:
> > Don,
> >  
> >   Can you please tell us precisely how you run the
> > C82 to get these
> > results.
> 
> Unfortuately, my experience is with the C84 which is a
> bit different, but you can extrapolate the details.
> 
> > 1. What inks do you put in each position
> 
> MIS EZ BW Neutral - For the black position I utilized
> the Epson Durabrite Black.
> 
> > 2. The precise names of the non-Epson papers you use
> 
> I only use Epson Heavyweight Matte, but tried a few
> prints on Epson's Durabrite paper that was included
> with the printer.
> 
> > 3. What you do to get your screen to match the print
> > using, I 
> > presume,
> > Photoshop CS
> 
> I am using a 12" G4 Apple Powerbook with Photoshop 7. 
> The printer driver is a bit different than a PC, but
> it should get you started.
> 
> First, I calibrated the monitor with a Monaco Optix,
> which is much more convenient and accurate than
> calibrating by eye.
> 
> My greyscale color space is "dot gain 20%" and in
> print with preview, I utilize "same as source."  When
> opening an image, I assign the working space of DG20.
> 
> I use the common step wedge as my reference print,
> however the width is reduced to 3 inches so I can fit
> more on a page.  I print with the setting of Photo
> Paper (instead of heavyweight matte) in the driver and
> all of the sliders set to 0.  The resolution is set to
> "best photo."  Essentially, you want the printer to
> print at the highest quality.
> 
> I make a series of prints, each time reducing the
> contrast slider by 1 - this affects the lower values. 
> I ended up with a final value of -9 before the shadows
> began to block up.  Keeping the contrast at -9, I then
> used the sliders to change the brightness setting
> (which affects the highlights) by adding 1 to each
> sucessive print. I ended up with a setting of +2.
> 
> All printers are a bit different, so your results will
> probably not match my results.  But this will get you
> started.
> 
> You need to allow the prints to dry, but with the
> above printer settings, +2 brightness/-9 contrast, the
> prints match my calibrated monitor perfectly.  With
> the Neutral MIS inks, the onscreen color is fairly
> accurate as well.  
> 
> > 4. What if any settings you change when you change
> > papers
> 
> If I was to use another paper, I would repeat the
> above process and save a custom printer setting as
> that papers name.  This process is surprisingly quick,
> and can be done without a large amount of supplies.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> Don
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
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