Digital BW, The Print

My main point is that using Printer Color Management - Color 
Controls and Photorealistic is better than Epson's ICC profiles for 
doing B&W and Scott apparently agrees.  This morning I made my test 
print with +1Y and -1M and after it dried I compared it with my 
first print which was without slider adjustment.  I looked at them 
in morning northlight, tungsten-halogen, fluorescent and in 
mixtures.  The differences were subtle, yet important to me.  The 
goal is to reduce metamerism and not have objectionable tones in any 
of these lighting situations.  I don't think you can completely 
overcome it.  Even Imageprint has to use multiple profiles for each 
paper depending on predominant lighting.  What I noticed was that 
the slider adjustments reduced the Magenta bias that was present in 
the no-slider version in fluorescent particularly and also in the 
others.  It seemed more neutral in all lighting situations.  I want 
to produce a print that will look good in the gallery which has 
daylight and fluorescent and will eventually be shown under 
tungsten. 

Andrew


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Graham" 
<gebilwil@n...> wrote:
> Gosh, i don't have any trouble getting neutral B&W from the UC 
inks and std driver.  I use 
> "printer color management" (as you do) and sliders at zero.  It 
comes out neutral.
> 
> Of course I don't use a gray scale image, but RGB.  Grayscale only 
has to be converted to 
> RGB by the printer anyway, and the more conversions the sadder 
(round off, clipping, etc)
> 
> I do have to make sure that my RGB "grayscale" is desaturated 
though.  Made a mess at 
> first cuz I was scanning B&W negs in RGB and the scanner was not 
perfectly neutral.
> 
> Scott
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew 
Unger" <ungram@y...> 
> wrote:
> > I doubt that I'll be able to get the Gray Balancer for the 4000 
and 
> > maybe that's for the best.  It appears that a solution to a 
neutral 
> > and I think, reasonably metamarism free print is pretty simple.  
> > 
> > Create a grayscale image, include a ramp.  In Print use "same as 
> > source" for the Printspace.  Select Custom and in Advanced use 
Color 
> > controls and Photo-realistic.  Make a print.  Then follow the 
Tyler 
> > Boley method of Grayscale softproofing which I think is still 
> > available in files.  Make a curve to match what you now see in 
the proofing 
> > view.  In my case with EEM it was necessary to open shadows with 
> > particular emphasis in the 95-100 range.  Make another print.  
Once 
> > you are satisfied with the ramp and the overall image, save the 
> > setup.  Then work on getting to neutral.  I found that very 
small 
> > increments of the sliders give what is needed.  My version of 
> > neutral was a -2Y adjustment.  Save the settings with each 
iteration 
> > under the same name.  It may get to be clumsy to set up say 4 
tones 
> > for each of many papers.  
> > 
> > Epson's advice in the manuals and the Holbert video about B&W 
> > printing didn't help me at all.  I was going crazy with very 
> > pronounced color casts trying to print with their profiles.