Digital BW, The Print

Hi Steve,

Thanks for drawing attention to that, it's given me an interesting idea. The
method they describe uses the "GLOP" in a different way to Epson's intentions.
As you say, it's doing an overspray, hence the recommendation to use a white
(or nearly completely white) file for a second run on top of the original
print. What first occurred to me was that there is no reason why the original
print needs to be produced on the R800. What's to stop you from coating, say,
an A4 2200 print in this way? Furthermore, why use an R800 for the coating?
Couldn't you use a C84 for this? I would be similar to doing an overspray with
Premier ArtShield or Krylon, but guaranteed to be even.

-= mike =-

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kale
Sent: 30 November 2004 11:13
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] QTR and Gloss Optimizer


This suggests it is an "overspray" ie it is applied evenly to the entire image
(or even page) rather than a filler dependent on the deposit of other
ink:

http://inksupply.info/index.php?_a=knowledgebase&_j=questiondetails&_i=105

Remember also that the R800 can gloss the entire paper - outside the image
area's borders. Note the use of "fit to page" in the instructions above.

I would use either the Cyan or Magenta slot so that (assuming you are using UC
colour inks rather than quads) you still have access to LC, LM and Y for
cooling/toning.  In the 21/2200 UC curves an equal amount of LC and LM are
used to cool the LK.


> From: koloshor <wiz@...>
 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven Karafyllakis"
> <steve@s...> wrote:
>> 
>> Plaese keep us posted! I think an old printer with the optimiser in 
>> the K position might work-print black only, and take the gloss out to 
>> the edge after the print is dry and signed. I have a partially 
>> defunct 1270 that's sitting around just waiting for this!
> 
> That won't work. The GLOP isn't an overspray, like a print varnish. 
> It's an "in between spray" that only gets laid down on lightly inked 
> (or uninked) areas of the print. Your second printer would need to be 
> able to perfectly march the alignment of the first printer. It would 
> have to be able to lay GLOP precisely into lightly inked tiny details, like
hair.
> 
> If you want to print B&W and Color with GLOP on both, the way to do it 
> is to get a full RIP (or modify QTR for color use) and put the GLOP in 
> the light cyan slot. The printer doesn't "lean" on light cyan the way 
> it does light magenta. You can get a pretty good image using lightly 
> dithered, full strength cyan. You'd have to build new B&W QTR curves 
> that replaced the light cyan with full strength cyan.

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