Digital BW, The Print

Neutrality is achieved with the UC inks by adjusting the proportions of 
light black, light cyan, and light magenta inks used for the print.  
This adjustment can be more precisely achieved for a user's particular 
printer, inks, and paper by blending the warm/cool profiles than by 
using a generic "neutral" profile made with a different printer, inks, 
and paper.  Note also that current QTR profiles do not neutralize the 
black ink (either matte K or Photo K, depending on which papers used) 
so absolute neutrality is only obtained up through the midtones before 
the black ink kicks in at around 75%.  In the deep shadows where K is 
the predominant ink the tone will be slightly warmer because of the 
inherent warmth of both the matte black and photo black inks.  This 
tonal shift from neutral midtones (with the right blend of warm/cool 
profiles) to warmer shadows will be most noticeable on RC papers 
because of the extreme warm brown tone of the Epson Photo black ink.


On Dec 6, 2004, at 2:46 PM, chipcarterdc wrote:

>
>
> FYI, I've asked this question before.  As I understand it, the creator 
> of QTR has
> decided that blending of the various curves to achieve each user's 
> view of
> "neutrality" is the better method, rather than providing a "canned" 
> neutral
> curve.  (It's been a long time since I asked this question, so forgive 
> me if I'm
> misremembering what Roy said in response).  That's a fair view, but I 
> still think
> that, as good as QTR is, it would be helpful to have a canned neutral 
> curve.
> I've dipped into QTR from time to time, and even paid the shareware 
> fee, but
> generally use ImagePrint for my 9600,  particularly since I need some 
> of IP's
> other features in addition to neutral grayscale.  On my 4000, I plan 
> to use QTR
> in the future for B&W -- for the moment, it's not an issue since I 
> print my B&W
> on the 9600 via ImagePrint.
>
> The other answer I got in response to this question (not from Roy, but 
> from
> other group members) was along the lines of "you just have to 
> linearize the
> whatchamacallit and build your own neutral curve using a spectrograph
> thingy."  (As you can tell, I don't recall exactly what the response 
> was, but it
> was over my head).  Since I don't know what "linearize" means and 
> don't have
> any measuring tools of my own and don't know how to build my own QTR
> curves, this wasn't practical for me.
>
> Finally, I got various suggestions on how to combine curves to get a 
> neutral
> tone (25% of this, 75% of that).  I tried and still was not able to 
> come up with a
> curve I considered neutral gray.  (But I'm sure I'll delve into it 
> again someday).
> I do suggest that you  try various combinations to see if you can come 
> up with
> a tone you consider neutral.
>
> Last point: for what you pay for QTR (very little) and how good of a 
> job it does
> generally, I think it's an outstanding piece of software.  But I still 
> wish it had a
> canned neutral curve.
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Richard 
> Smallfield <
> r.smallfield@p...> wrote:
>> Hi, I've recently installed QTR for XP and notice that there is no 
>> neutral
> curve. I wondered what people had found the best mix of tones was to 
> get a
> perfectly neutral curve for EEM/HPR?
>>
>> I've just experimented with 25% cool Selenium and 75% Warm and with
> small prints, and it looks pretty good. However, I've found that with 
> 10x15"
> prints any slight tonal bias becomes much more noticeable.
>>
>> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>>
>> thanks,
>> Richard
>> --
>> http://smallfield.vze.com
>> http://photos.smallfield.vze.com
>>
>>    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly,
>>    is to fill the world with fools."
>>    --Herbert Spencer
>
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