Digital BW, The Print

Thanks for the reply.

2 more quick questions:

1. Did you mention Kirkland Glossy has a dmax of 2.4 with the PK ink 
on the C86?

2. In reguards to the "printer warm-up" problem: Are you talking 
about the power being on for awhile? Or, actually having to print a 
few photos to "warm it up"?

Thanks again Paul,

Scott



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> 
> >So, you spray the print first, and then dry mount it?
> 
> Yes, I think this protects the print.  Then if there is any minor 
damage
> (like from removing dust that has been pressed into the surface) 
it's easy
> enough to do a post-mounting, light spray. 
> 
> >Also, how long do you think the shelf life is for paper, such as 
> >Epson Premium or Kirkland?
> 
> I don't know.  I think I may have had one piece of paper "go bad" 
that was
> not in a container.  It was a piece of Epson UltraSmooth that just 
did not
> seem to have the dmax it used to.  (I double-checked that I'd 
printed on the
> correct side.)  On the other hand, I just used a couple old boxes 
of Eclipse
> Satine that have been sitting around for a few years, and they 
seemed fine.
> For ink testing, I regularly use odd, cut pieces of EEM that have 
sat in the
> open in my darkroom near the paper cutter, and they seem to hold up 
fine.
> So, in general, I think of the paper as a non-perishable.
> 
> >Do you think it could be frozen for long term storage (2 yrs or 
so) 
> >like traditional "silver" papers?
> 
> I doubt that freezing does significant good.  I suspect humidity and
> airborne pollution are what might attack the coating.  Aside from 
the one
> sample of UltraSmooth that seemed to die after it has been out of a
> container for months, I've never detected any other signs of age-
related
> deterioration of matte papers.  On the glossy side, I see swings in 
dmax
> that can go from close to 1.7 to over 2.0, and I don't know what the
> variables are.  I'm suspicious of humidity, but I have not been 
able to nail
> it down.  The swings seem almost random.  They do not seem to 
follow the
> usual desktop printer warm-up changes (which produce lighter 
midtones) that
> I've seen rather regularly.
> 
> Sorry I couldn't be of more help.  Paper life and the variables 
that affect
> how the papers print are definitely areas where we could use some
> knowledgeable input.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
> <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> > Hans,
> > 
> > >What about using heat when dry mounting inkjets?
> > >If you use i e Seal Archival tissue you have to warm it up till 
ca 
> 70C.
> > >What happens with the coating and the ink (almost boiling)?
> > 
> > I dry mount with Seal Archival.  I set the press at 170 F (about 
77 
> C).  I
> > have no idea what the actual temperature is.  I'm looking at a UT-
> FSN+ print
> > on Epson Semimatte, sprayed with PremierArt Print Shield (seems 
to 
> be the
> > same as Lyson Print Guard) that was dry mounted onto an acid-
free, 
> buffered
> > mat board.  I have not been able to see any problems with it.  
The 
> only time
> > I did have a problem was when my release paper was too old.
> > 
> > >How will this influence the longevity of the print?
> > 
> > I don't know.  I'm guessing it'll have no effect on the fade 
rate.  
> > 
> > The buffering in the mat board might actually help the paper.  
Epson
> > Semimatte is rated at ">200 years" by Wilhelm, but my acid test 
pen
> > indicates the paper base is only weakly buffered, unlike the 
other 
> Epson
> > "Premium" RC papers, which test as quite "acid free."  (There may 
> be a
> > reason Epson Semimatte is relatively cheap.)
> > 
> > Let us know if you run into any problems with dry mounting.
> > 
> > Paul
> > www.PaulRoark.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
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