Digital BW, The Print

>
>Peter,
>
>Although I hadn't thought about it that way before, this must be why I
>like TMAX + HC-110. I do get a nice but moderate sense of the grain,
>and very fine detail. Since it's what I was using in the darkroom,
>it's what I first used with my film scanning -- and I happened to like
>it right away instead of thinking "egad, this is awful!"
>
>Interesting how something unlikely to satisfy, sometimes does.
>
>-Clark
>
>
>
>  
>
Clark,

You're absolutely right. What matters is that you get the results that 
you're after. A little bit of grain in a print often makes the print 
look sharper. How much grain there is in a print will depend, though, 
much more on the magnification of the negative than on the developer. 
Hence, what gives you the look you're after at 8x10 probably won't give 
the look you're after at 16x20, from the same sized negative anyway. To 
go digital, scanning the negative will probably emphasize the grain, as 
will whatever sharpening, processing, ... that you will do. Hence the 
only way to really know is to try it for yourself with the exact 
workflow that you intend on using.

Regarding the Josh's Pyro question: Pyro stain (PMK, Pyrocat, thorton's 
develoers...) will minimize grain somewhat, but these developers aren't 
that fine grained to begin with. (I've used PMK for regular darkroom 
printing extensively.) My guess is that you'll be better off with Xtol 
(which I currently prefer for traditional use) or Microdol X, which are 
fine grained developers, especially the latter. Remember to expose and 
develop for less contrast than for silver printing. Pyro, of any type, 
is toxic and tempermental, but can give very good results. If I were 
you, I would try the regular fine grained develoeper first, perhaps with 
a contact from a stouffer step wedge. Then try the Pyro developer of 
your choice and see what you get. You could then publish scans on a 
website and become an instant guru.

Peter
www.desmidt.net