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2005-02-20 by joshscapes
hello group, Just wondering if anyone has found the best developer to use with Tmax 100 so that it scans at its best. I am interested in this as I do b&w landscape work with t-max 100 and would like to develop it to optimize its scanning abilities. Thanks in advance, Josh
2005-02-20 by Peter De Smidt
joshscapes wrote: >hello group, > >Just wondering if anyone has found the best developer to use with >Tmax 100 so that it scans at its best. > >I am interested in this as I do b&w landscape work with t-max 100 >and would like to develop it to optimize its scanning abilities. > >Thanks in advance, > >Josh > > > It is my limited scanning experience that fine-grain, low contrast negatives scan the best. I would recommend using Xtol 1+1 to develop TMX. I would then find the development/exposure that leads to the best scanning results. You would probably want to shoot at EI 64 and develop for N-1, which will be approximately %15 less than normal development. Microdol X would give even finer grain at the cost of about 1 stop of speed. -Peter De Smidt www.desmidt.net
2005-02-20 by ellery
If you are using 35mm format - its difficult. I would suggest using a Tmax developer and not over developing - normal or normal minus 10 to 15% on time. But there is no getting away from dot grain gain, maybe with some appropriate development you can control the contrast gain. Ifford HP5 and their 100 asa normal film not delta seems to scan easier.
----- Original Message -----
From: joshscapes
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 9:35 AM
Subject: [Digital BW] Tmax 100 film
hello group,
Just wondering if anyone has found the best developer to use with
Tmax 100 so that it scans at its best.
I am interested in this as I do b&w landscape work with t-max 100
and would like to develop it to optimize its scanning abilities.
Thanks in advance,
Josh
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2005-02-20 by Peter Gorwin
D-76 or T-Max devloper. (Definitely not HC 110 unless you want golf ball size grain. Peter G. P.S. make sure that you use a thermometer. if you don't use the rec. temps from developer, to stop, to fixer, you will also get too much grain.
On Feb 19, 2005, at 5:35 PM, joshscapes wrote: > > > hello group, > > Just wondering if anyone has found the best developer to use with > Tmax 100 so that it scans at its best. > > I am interested in this as I do b&w landscape work with t-max 100 > and would like to develop it to optimize its scanning abilities. > > Thanks in advance, > > Josh > > > > > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other > resources as they are often being updated. > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish > to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting > this same page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to > keep them short. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from > the membership without notice. > - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital > B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be > removed from the membership. > - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and > guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group > Owner and Moderators. See “Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines” in the > Files section: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/ > > BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE > PRINT YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE “OWNER” > AND “MODERATORS” OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE > LIABLE TO YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, > CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, > DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE > LOSSES (EVEN IF THE “OWNER” AND “MODERATORS” OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT > YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), > RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, > THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF > YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD > PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER > MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP. > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
2005-02-20 by B. Ellis
>I am interested in this as I do b&w landscape work with t-max 100 >and would like to develop it to optimize its scanning abilities. T Max is highly sensitive to minor variations in developing time, temperature, and agitation so IMHO the most important thing when using it is to first do some testing with the developer of your choice to nail down the correct time for a normal negative and then be sure that you maintain that same time, termperature and agitation method for all of your processing. FWIW I process T Max 100 sheet film in BTZS tubes (contstant agitation). 75 degrees for 6 minutes fifteen seconds for a normal negative using D76 diluted 1-1. I've used D76 for many years. It's an excellent general purpose developer that has been around for about a century but I think any of the standard developers will work fine with T Max 100 as long as you do the appropriate testing and then maintain consistent working procedures. FWIW John Sexton uses T Max RS developer diluted 1-9 as I recall. However, if you're just starting out I'd suggest that you consider a film that is more forgiving than T Max of minor processing variations and exposure errors. I prefer Ilford HP5+ film from that standpoint. I use T Max 100 only because it is available in Readyload form and Ilford isn't. My impression is that most of the active participants in this group either use digital cameras or color film. You might get a wider variety of responses from the rec.photo.darkroom group or another group comprised of more people who use black and white film.
----- Original Message ----- From: "joshscapes" <joshrandall@...> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 8:35 PM Subject: [Digital BW] Tmax 100 film hello group, Just wondering if anyone has found the best developer to use with Tmax 100 so that it scans at its best. I am interested in this as I do b&w landscape work with t-max 100 and would like to develop it to optimize its scanning abilities. Thanks in advance, Josh Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as they are often being updated. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the membership without notice. - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from the membership. - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and Moderators. See "Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files section: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/ BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP. Yahoo! Groups Links
2005-02-20 by Mark Savoia
Ilfotec DD Mark On Feb 19, 2005, at 8:35 PM, joshscapes wrote: > > hello group, > > Just wondering if anyone has found the best developer to use with > Tmax 100 so that it scans at its best. > > > > Josh > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2005-02-20 by Seth
I would suggest you photograph a 21 step grayscale with different combos. Then see which scans best. Seth
2005-02-20 by Clark Thomas
Since no one's mentioned it, thought I'd mention HC-110. TMAX 100 is my only film (120 only), and w/HC-110 I adjust from N-1 to N+1 on a regular basis. True, the 'workflow' has to be consistent, but that's part of the fun. -Clark --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "joshscapes" <joshrandall@j...> wrote:
> > hello group, > > Just wondering if anyone has found the best developer to use with > Tmax 100 so that it scans at its best. > > I am interested in this as I do b&w landscape work with t-max 100 > and would like to develop it to optimize its scanning abilities. > > Thanks in advance, > > Josh
2005-02-20 by Peter De Smidt
Clark Thomas wrote: > >Since no one's mentioned it, thought I'd mention HC-110. TMAX 100 is >my only film (120 only), and w/HC-110 I adjust from N-1 to N+1 on a >regular basis. True, the 'workflow' has to be consistent, but that's >part of the fun. >-Clark > > > > HC-110, though, will give fairly large grain and pretty high accutance. This may be fine for regular BW printing, but I don't think it would be ideal for scanning. (I used to use Tri-x and HC110 dilution B for large format negatives.) -Peter
2005-02-20 by Clark Thomas
> HC-110, though, will give fairly large grain and > pretty high accutance. > This may be fine for regular BW printing, but I don't > think it would be ideal for scanning. Peter, Although I hadn't thought about it that way before, this must be why I like TMAX + HC-110. I do get a nice but moderate sense of the grain, and very fine detail. Since it's what I was using in the darkroom, it's what I first used with my film scanning -- and I happened to like it right away instead of thinking "egad, this is awful!" Interesting how something unlikely to satisfy, sometimes does. -Clark > Clark Thomas wrote: > > > > >Since no one's mentioned it, thought I'd mention HC-110. TMAX 100 is > >my only film (120 only), and w/HC-110 I adjust from N-1 to N+1 on a > >regular basis. True, the 'workflow' has to be consistent, but that's > >part of the fun. > >-Clark > > > > > > > > > HC-110, though, will give fairly large grain and pretty high accutance. > This may be fine for regular BW printing, but I don't think it would be > ideal for scanning. (I used to use Tri-x and HC110 dilution B for large
> format negatives.) > > -Peter
2005-02-20 by Peter De Smidt
> >Peter, > >Although I hadn't thought about it that way before, this must be why I >like TMAX + HC-110. I do get a nice but moderate sense of the grain, >and very fine detail. Since it's what I was using in the darkroom, >it's what I first used with my film scanning -- and I happened to like >it right away instead of thinking "egad, this is awful!" > >Interesting how something unlikely to satisfy, sometimes does. > >-Clark > > > > > Clark, You're absolutely right. What matters is that you get the results that you're after. A little bit of grain in a print often makes the print look sharper. How much grain there is in a print will depend, though, much more on the magnification of the negative than on the developer. Hence, what gives you the look you're after at 8x10 probably won't give the look you're after at 16x20, from the same sized negative anyway. To go digital, scanning the negative will probably emphasize the grain, as will whatever sharpening, processing, ... that you will do. Hence the only way to really know is to try it for yourself with the exact workflow that you intend on using. Regarding the Josh's Pyro question: Pyro stain (PMK, Pyrocat, thorton's develoers...) will minimize grain somewhat, but these developers aren't that fine grained to begin with. (I've used PMK for regular darkroom printing extensively.) My guess is that you'll be better off with Xtol (which I currently prefer for traditional use) or Microdol X, which are fine grained developers, especially the latter. Remember to expose and develop for less contrast than for silver printing. Pyro, of any type, is toxic and tempermental, but can give very good results. If I were you, I would try the regular fine grained develoeper first, perhaps with a contact from a stouffer step wedge. Then try the Pyro developer of your choice and see what you get. You could then publish scans on a website and become an instant guru. Peter www.desmidt.net
2005-02-22 by Daniel Ridings
> HC-110, though, will give fairly large grain and pretty high accutance. > This may be fine for regular BW printing, but I don't think it would be > ideal for scanning. ??? I just processed a batch of film in HC110 and then 2 rolls in Xtol from the same shooting. I sure can't tell any difference in grain. Funny, some people get a lot of grain out of HC110 and others don't. Must have something to do with something, but I don't know. I've standardized on HC110 for everything. 35mm and 120. It's not a dynamite developer or anything, just consistent and reliable. Daniel Ridings http://www.dlridings.com/paw2005 (all with HC110, though most of it pushed at this time of the year)