I find using a soft rubber roller, called a brayer at art stores works very well instead of using a squeege. I put a pool of fluid on the glass, lay the film down gradually from one end of the film to the other to prevent trapping air. Then more fluid on top of the film, then the plastic overlay laid down same way as the film. Then I roll the "sandwich lightly using the roller checking for air bubbles. Afterward, wiping excess fluid off the "sandwich with lint- free dry wipes before scanning. Works like a charm! Sounds kind of complicated until you do it a few times, then it's a breeze, doesn't really add much time to my workflow Randy --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Ernst Dinkla <E.Dinkla@c...> wrote: > Frank Kolwicz wrote: > > >Ernst, > > > >I *was* using a larger transparent plastic cover sheet when I had the > >problems I described with the Kami fluid and I could sit there and watch the > >bubbles expand from around the film edges into the image area and there was > >no way I could get the scan done before they ruined it. This was with 220 > >color negatives. > > > >The cover sheet seemed to make the mounting even harder by providing that > >much more space in the second layer for bubbles to be trapped. > > > >How do you work out the bubbles in the first place? I tried flooding the > >surface with fluid and progressively laying the film in from one end (and > >likewise with the cover sheet), squeegeeing the layered film and cover sheet > >with some kind of smooth soft plastic scraper and finally flooding the > >entire surface of both sheets with a film of fluid. I never got rid of the > >bubbles, but did get them off the image area temporarily, until they crept > >back in as the edge bubbles expanded. > > > >I now use a ScanMultiPro and have the glass holder for flattening curled > >film: would you recommend using mounting fluid in that kind of holder? > > > >Frank > > > Frank, > > I can repeat that mounting every day and I get the same results. The > thinner MF film + an extra sheet of 0.1 mm PET being the best example of > the long time you can keep the sandwich closed. Several scans of the > same film without any air creeping in. I use a small polyethylene > squeegee and an extra sheet of PET on top of the sandwich to avoid > scratches on the top foil. On the Nikon 8000 wet mount carriers that I > made I added small steel clamps to hold the foil so no tape has to be > used. I lift that foil at the other edge, lay the film where it should > be, drip the fluid with a pipet in the angle near the clamps, lower the > PET foil and the squeegee pushes the fluid between the four surfaces in > a few strokes. If it doesn't work in one attempt the second one will do > the trick without failing. One has to keep the concept of capillary > force in mind, that fluid will creep into the narrow spaces, there's no > need to imitate the way you make normal sandwiches. > > Either your PET film reacts to the fluid, is too thick or the overlap of > the foil is too small. I'm not familiar enough with the ScanMultiPro. > The wet mount holders I made for the Nikon are based on the MF slide > holder and have a glass area of approx. 11 x 23 cm. Sealed with > polyurethane resin around the edges. That 's enough for the MF films > scanned on that scanner. On the Epson 3200 I use a separate glass sheet > for mounting 4x5 and the PET foil will overlap with 1.5" -2" around the > film. I have PET on the roll so there's no need to check whether it is > half an inch less or more. > > Ernst
Message
[Digital BW] Re: Wet Mounting - What is it?
2005-05-26 by Randy Rancier
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