Hello Neil; Gives us some more info: What does your histogram look like? Is it combed? Do you shoot in raw and convert to 16 bit tiff, 8-bit tiff, JPEG; When you do your density/contrast tweaks and uprezzing are you in 8- bit or 16? As for Genuine Fractals, I've never been too impressed with it, though some people love it. I especially detest proprietary file formats-you must have GF installed to use the files you create with it. Do you have Qimage? It does an excellent job of upsampling and sharpenning, and a lot more besides. You can use it in conjunction with QTR with the 'print to file' technique, or with UT-7 it works just like Photoshop. Seve Karafyllakis --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "neilsphoto" <neilsphoto@y...> wrote: > Here's the deal. I like good side light in my portraits from windows > or softboxes. A nice modeling and tonal range into a nice shadow. I > tend to bump the contrast to get a nice black, no always a darker > black (they only get so black) but maybe more black if that makes sense. > > Sometimes on the transition from flesh to black it gets jagged > looking, ugly and sort of solarized. It is very hard to describe and > even if I could post the image here it wouldn't look like it does in > print. > > I've seen it with D2H and D70 files. I upsize them in CS a little at > a time to 12x18 ( I rarely see this in a 6x9). I had been set to > Bicubic. It has been suggested I use Bicubic Smoother instead. > > I've had it much less so with scanned TX or XP2. I scan with a Minolta > 5400 and my files are much larger than what I get out of camera so > upsizing isn't needed. > > I have been BO printing for over a year. 2200, Ebony and EEM or PR. I > thought that maybe I was asking alot of one ink to make a smooth > transition so I got UT7. Same, different, I don't know. I get get > either ink set to do the same thing. > > So I get an image I like on screen, make a print and decide to give it > a little more snap. I might tweek the brightness/contrast a bit and > make another print and then I may get this jagged look it I went too > far. I've most likely already done some levels adjustment before the > first print already. > > It clearly looks as if I've put down too much ink. Is this a dot gain > issue? I'm at 20%. > > Would Genuine Fractels be better for up-sizing my D70 files than CS? > > Or am I just asking for too much. Again it is hard to describe what > I'm getting. > > I could e-mail a sample portrait and describe where the problems lie > but you won't see it in a jpeg. Gotta be on paper. > > Any ideas welcome. > > Neil
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Re: Flesh tone to shadow transition jagged/ugly. Why?
2005-06-22 by Steven Karafyllakis
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