Digital BW, The Print

> From: dean_carnagey <jd_tazmo@...>
> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 20:20:43 -0000
> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [Digital BW] Workflow - QTR, Workspace Profile, Qimage & Eboni?
> 
> I'm still trying to get my head around the various options available
> to print B&W in the digital realm.  I've recently read so much about
> the subject here as well as other places on the net that my eyes are
> bleeding.  However, I still have a few unanswered questions that I
> hope a kind soul or two out there will help me with.
> 
> I shoot digital (Raw) rather than scanŠI'm a Windows user with a
> solid color managed workflow...and I'm using an Epson 2200 (for
> now).  I've settled on using QTR with the Epson OEM UC inks, and I
> plan on using Qimage in my workflow.  (Alternatively, I'd like to use
> the above same workflow, but substitute MIS' Eboni ink in place of
> the Epson Matt or Photo black cartridge.)
> 
> So with that, my questions are as follows:
> 
> 1  I use Photoshop to make my RGB images appear black and white...
> usually using just the two Hue & Sat layers method.  I then edit
> these images in my normal workspace (ProPhoto RGB) until I get the
> look I'm after.
> 
> So my first question isŠwould there be anything to gain from
> assigning Roy Harrinton's RGB-Lab.icc (or Gray-Lab.icc) profile and
> doing my edits in this workspace instead?

No not really as the file will go out with pixel values adjusted when you do
the conversion in 2 below. (more refined profiling is on its way)
> 
> 2  I understand that before saving the file as a TIFF file, I'll need
> to do a profile conversion to one of Roy's supplied Matte or Photo
> profiles.  I also understand I need to use RGB-Matte or RGB Photo
> because Qimage doen't handle grayscale.  I've also gathered that I
> can use either Photoshop or Qimage to handle the conversion.  But
> since I'd like to use Qimage's interpolation and smart sharpening
> features, I was thinking of letting Qimage handle the conversion...
> then do a print to file...and then save as a TIFF.
> 
> So I guess here my only question at this point is...would there be
> any advantage either way as to which application handles the profile
> conversion?

I doubt it.
> 
> 3.  Once I have a TIFF file, I understand I can then load it into QTR
> and begin applying the supplied or downloaded curves.  As I
> understand it, these curves apply the desired toning touches, taking
> into consideration the ink/paper combinations.
> 
> My question here is...if I desire my file to look exactly as it was
> when I saved it (i.e., no toning whatsoever), do I set the toning
> slider to 50% between two Cool and Warm curves...or do I choose no
> curve at all?

The way to think about the curves is each is a greyscale made by a defined
use of ink.  You need at least one curve to tell QTR which inks to use and
how.  The slider blends 2 curves.  Getting a curve mix which matches neutral
requires a little experimentation but is around 65 cool/ 35 warm.
> 
> 4.  Softproofing...this one has me thoroughly baffled.  I understand
> that I can use Roy's Matt or Photo ICC profiles to do a rough
> softproofing in Photoshop...

 this just soft proofs the tonal compression that is done by converting to
the print profile (grey or matte)

>but is there any way to see the effect
> the toning slider in QTR is having on the image?  In other words, if
> I want my image "somewhat" cool...how can I tell if I've got the
> right percentage mix?  Is doing a printed proof the only way?

Only by trial and error.  Print a set of step wedges from 100 cool/0 warm to
0 cool/100 warm for example.  Once you've got a mix you like you can create
a proof using the (preserve color numbers) softproofing technique outlined.
> 
> 5,  And finally...if I wanted to substitute MIS' Eboni cartridge for
> the Epson black cartridge (either Matt or Photo), how much would that
> throw off the supplied curves?  I realize the correct way to do
> things would be to build my own curve for this altered ink set, but
> until I learn a bit more how to do it and can purchase a densometer,
> I was hoping I'd be able to use the ink for a bit richer looking
> black.

Probably not tooo much.
> 
> I realize I've prattled on quite a bit here with my questions, so I
> want to thank anyone who's read this far for indulging me.  If anyone
> would care to take a shot at this list of questions, I'd be most
> appreciative...even if you're able to address only one or two of them
> it would help tremendously.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Dean Carnagey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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