----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Kale" <stevekale@...>
To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Workflow - QTR, Workspace Profile, Qimage & Eboni?
> From: dean_carnagey <jd_tazmo@...>
> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 20:20:43 -0000
> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [Digital BW] Workflow - QTR, Workspace Profile, Qimage & Eboni?
>
> I'm still trying to get my head around the various options available
> to print B&W in the digital realm. I've recently read so much about
> the subject here as well as other places on the net that my eyes are
> bleeding. However, I still have a few unanswered questions that I
> hope a kind soul or two out there will help me with.
>
> I shoot digital (Raw) rather than scanSI'm a Windows user with a
> solid color managed workflow...and I'm using an Epson 2200 (for
> now). I've settled on using QTR with the Epson OEM UC inks, and I
> plan on using Qimage in my workflow. (Alternatively, I'd like to use
> the above same workflow, but substitute MIS' Eboni ink in place of
> the Epson Matt or Photo black cartridge.)
>
> So with that, my questions are as follows:
>
> 1 I use Photoshop to make my RGB images appear black and white...
> usually using just the two Hue & Sat layers method. I then edit
> these images in my normal workspace (ProPhoto RGB) until I get the
> look I'm after.
>
> So my first question isSwould there be anything to gain from
> assigning Roy Harrinton's RGB-Lab.icc (or Gray-Lab.icc) profile and
> doing my edits in this workspace instead?
No not really as the file will go out with pixel values adjusted when you do
the conversion in 2 below. (more refined profiling is on its way)
>
> 2 I understand that before saving the file as a TIFF file, I'll need
> to do a profile conversion to one of Roy's supplied Matte or Photo
> profiles. I also understand I need to use RGB-Matte or RGB Photo
> because Qimage doen't handle grayscale. I've also gathered that I
> can use either Photoshop or Qimage to handle the conversion. But
> since I'd like to use Qimage's interpolation and smart sharpening
> features, I was thinking of letting Qimage handle the conversion...
> then do a print to file...and then save as a TIFF.
>
> So I guess here my only question at this point is...would there be
> any advantage either way as to which application handles the profile
> conversion?
I doubt it.
>
> 3. Once I have a TIFF file, I understand I can then load it into QTR
> and begin applying the supplied or downloaded curves. As I
> understand it, these curves apply the desired toning touches, taking
> into consideration the ink/paper combinations.
>
> My question here is...if I desire my file to look exactly as it was
> when I saved it (i.e., no toning whatsoever), do I set the toning
> slider to 50% between two Cool and Warm curves...or do I choose no
> curve at all?
The way to think about the curves is each is a greyscale made by a defined
use of ink. You need at least one curve to tell QTR which inks to use and
how. The slider blends 2 curves. Getting a curve mix which matches neutral
requires a little experimentation but is around 65 cool/ 35 warm.
>
> 4. Softproofing...this one has me thoroughly baffled. I understand
> that I can use Roy's Matt or Photo ICC profiles to do a rough
> softproofing in Photoshop...
this just soft proofs the tonal compression that is done by converting to
the print profile (grey or matte)
>but is there any way to see the effect
> the toning slider in QTR is having on the image? In other words, if
> I want my image "somewhat" cool...how can I tell if I've got the
> right percentage mix? Is doing a printed proof the only way?
Only by trial and error. Print a set of step wedges from 100 cool/0 warm to
0 cool/100 warm for example. Once you've got a mix you like you can create
a proof using the (preserve color numbers) softproofing technique outlined.
>
> 5, And finally...if I wanted to substitute MIS' Eboni cartridge for
> the Epson black cartridge (either Matt or Photo), how much would that
> throw off the supplied curves? I realize the correct way to do
> things would be to build my own curve for this altered ink set, but
> until I learn a bit more how to do it and can purchase a densometer,
> I was hoping I'd be able to use the ink for a bit richer looking
> black.
Probably not tooo much.
>
> I realize I've prattled on quite a bit here with my questions, so I
> want to thank anyone who's read this far for indulging me. If anyone
> would care to take a shot at this list of questions, I'd be most
> appreciative...even if you're able to address only one or two of them
> it would help tremendously.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dean Carnagey
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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- Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames.
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BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
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FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY
DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS,
GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE "OWNER" AND
"MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE
POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY
TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR
ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY
THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER
MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
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