Digital BW, The Print

Ben,

> ...
> 
> > First I make a selection of what areas I want, for example, cool.  
> > I save
> > the selection, of course.  In the one I just printed the selection 
> > had large
> > areas of feathering or less than 100% opacity (of the mask).
> 
> With you so far.
> 
> > Second, I make a duplicate image -- both should be converted to 
> > RGB before the curves are applied.
> 
> Do they need to be flattened?  My top layer is usually a Channel Mixer
> layer.
> 

No, I make a duplicate or copy image, not a duplicate layer.  Click on
"Image" in the top bar, then click on "Duplicate."  It will be labeled
"Copy."



> > Third, I apply the cool curve to the duplicate and the warm curve to the
> > original.

The curves are applied to the entire images.  Usually my selection is saved,
so I forgot to say that no selection should be on the image at this point.

> 
> > Fourth I align the clone tool at (.001, .001) or whatever your
> > "Information" palette says the upper left hand corner of the image is.
> >   Have the clone tool at one pixel for this.
> 
> Align?  Is that "option-click to define a source point", or something
> else?

I'm probably not using the right terminology.  Use the "Alt" key with the
clone/rubber-stamp tool to set the input/source point at the upper left
corner of the duplicate/copy image, then click on the original image at the
same exact point to be sure the pixels are exactly matched.


> 
> > Fifth I set the clone tool to 100% hardness and the largest size and
> > with a single sweep, I clone the entire duplicate, cool-colored 
> > image over onto the warm-original,
> 

This is where the selection has to be on the original to restrict the
cloning to the areas you want to be the tone of the duplicate/copy image.

If you were trying this with layers, it might have gotten confusing.



> 
> > but it only gets through the mask/selection to the extent of
> > the transparency.  If you do the sweep in more than one continuous
> > motion, the amount that gets through the mask will be duplicated 
> > in the feathered areas.
> >
> > I then have an original that is warm-colored (false color, of course)
> > where the mask was opaque, or to the extent of the opacity, and 
> > cool-colored where the selection let the clone tool do its cloning.
> >
> > Finally, I print the image on, in this case, a 2200 with UT7 inks, 
> > using the usual settings.  (The curves have already been applied.)
> >
> > If you save the colored image, name it in a way that reminds you what
> > printer and inkset it is set up for.  I usually don't save the color
> > image, but I definitely do save the selection.
> 

Hope this helps.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com