Digital BW, The Print

Joel,

> I will probably be looking to do prints up to 20x24" and larger...

The Epson 7xxx series takes up to 24 inch rolls.  The 9xxx takes up to 44".
The 7xxx series was the compromise that made the most sense to me.  Used
ones are not that expensive.

> assuming it is not practical (with as quickly as printers get outdated) 
>to purchase what would likely be a large format printer,

My 7600 is out of commission, so I'm using my 7500.  It's almost as good for
B&W, and these are quite affordable.  In short, you don't need the latest,
even if they are marginally better.

> is there anywhere locally that makes these types of prints at reasonable
> prices?

There usually are people on this list who have appropriate printers and will
do the work for a reasonable fee.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com 


> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark"
> <paul.roark@v...>
> wrote:
> > Joel,
> >
> > > ... I am just learning more about digital printing (work in large
> > > format film) and am trying to deduce which digital printing
> > > process is most similar in quality, ambience and permanence to a
> > > traditional fiber print?
> >
> > As you can tell from previous responses, reasonable people can have
> rather
> > different opinions on the issues you've raised.
> >
> > Overall, however, I'd guess most on this forum feel that carbon-based
> > pigment inksets provide the best B&W solution so far.  The ones that are
> > most often used are probably the MIS, Epson UC, and Piezography
> pigments.
> >
> > Although matte prints have a different look than the air-dried fiber
> prints
> > I used to make, most of my serious work is on matte, acid-free paper.
> When
> > framed under glass, they look very much like my older prints.  Not
> having to
> > dry mount them is a huge plus.  The matte finish allows simple tape
> hanging,
> > which is preferred by conservationists and much easier.
> >
> > The measured dmax of matte paper is low (e.g., 1.65 v. 1.9 for real
> world
> > silver print) but the lack of reflections often offsets this difference.
> > Once I got used to the matte look, I found I preferred it for most work.
> > The main problem I have with it is that it's fairly fragile -- being
> subject
> > to physical damage or abrasion if, for example, one rubs a finger across
> a
> > dark black area.  For prints I'll ship today or tomorrow, that are not
> > framed or matted, I'll spray them with "Lascaux Fixativ" to help be sure
> > they don't get damaged in transit or when the buyer mounts and frames
> them.
> >
> > The latest pigments from MIS and Epson can also print on RC paper and
> have a
> > higher dmax than the silver prints.  Wilhelm Research rates the Epson
> > Premium line of these papers as archival (more than 200 years of dark
> > storage).  While I disliked the wet process RC prints, I use Epson
> Premium
> > Semimatte and, especially when sprayed with a lacquer (PremierArt Print
> > Shield) and dry mounted, I think it looks very close to a silver print.
> It
> > also has a surface that can actually be cleaned with a damp cloth.  For
> > prints that are not going to be behind glass or acrylic, this may be the
> > best approach.  I'm currently making a 2 x 4 foot reproduction for a
> local
> > museum using this approach.
> >
> > Frankly, I need to be able to print on both types of paper.  They serve
> > different uses and markets, but both can be archival and very good
> looking.
> > I don't expect to ever make silver prints again; my enlarger is now just
> > taking up space in my darkroom.
> >
> > I don't have any interest in the current dye technology.  The latest
> > swellable emulsion papers give the B&W dyes fair longevity, but still
> not in
> > the same class with the predominantly carbon inksets.  If one uses good
> > cotton paper, the display life of dyes is very short.
> >
> > Hope this helps.  You might want to browse the information I have put on
> > line concerning the MIS inksets I've been involved with.  See
> > http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/index.htm
> >
> > Paul
> > www.PaulRoark.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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