Digital BW, The Print

There you go Roy. Thanks for that insight. Now that makes total sense
to me, and avoids messing with near black values, although it could
work both ways I suspect. I'll ask you more in a couple of weeks when
I actually get down to doing something serious.

Thanks again,

John 



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Roy Harrington"
<roy@h...> wrote:
>
> 
> John,
> 
> I've set my printer up for this, but due to some head problems
> its not quite operational.  But from what the experiments it works quite
> nicely.  The original idea for K6 was to leave out the middle gray but
> my experimenting with that convinced me the jump was too large from
> K3 to K5.  Dots were much more visible in this range.  I decided to
leave out
> the lightest ink since the next-to-lightest is still very light. 
There is one
> profile in the 2.3.1 download for this setup with Y being K4 rather
than K7.
> 
> I'd recommend that setup but I haven't seen the leave-out-the-K2 scheme.
> 
> Roy
> 
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Greg"
<dfaprinting@y...> 
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Tyler Boley" 
> > <tyler@t...> wrote:
> > >
> > > John, I really think you're going to be the bleeding edge on this 
> > setup.
> > > Tyler
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > Shouldn't be too much of an issue when using one of the RIPs (QTR or 
> > StudioPrint), just need to leave out the darkest gray, and stretch
the 
> > full black a bit more, maybe a longer overlap between black and the 
> > other shades. It's the lightest inks that will make the biggest 
> > difference in the quality.
> > 
> > And normally those early printers were pretty bullit proof (notice
the 
> > word normally). As long as parts are available, there doesn't seem to 
> > be a compelling reason to get rid of them (just repurpose them). The 
> > 9000/9500 is a tank, but it is a bit slow (speed kills?).
> >
>